I have 2 maglites that I would like to convert to 2-3 modes instead of the current single mode.
A 2C Maglite with a 2C Malkoff XP-G 270 Lumen Module-Running on 2 x AA Energizer lithium primaries in a cardboard sleeve.
a 2D Maglite with a 3-6D Malkoff XP-G 325 Lumen Module-Running on 3C Alkaline’s in a PVC sleeve.
How do I modify the switch or do I need to add a driver in-between(if there is room)?
Thanks.
You would probably replace the driver in the malkoff drop ins
No go. Its custom made and acts as the insert that replaces the stock bulb.
Oh ok, never mind lol…
I figured they were something like THIS
Im sure if it is possible, someone will be along soon
Hey no problem. I appreciate the input!
Inside the switch where the original bulb setup went there are 2 tin tabs through the hole. The outside tab is ground and the inside tab is positive. I usually disassembled the switch to solder on a red wire to the inside tab and soldered on black wire for the outside tab. It will make perfect sense once you have the switch apart and you can see where the connections are. I believe the locking screw that goes through the switch from the button hole is wired straight up to the ground (its a grounding screw). Its been so long since I modded these things its hard to remember, but I have modded probably 50 mags. Once you have 2 leads coming from the switch you can add a driver and connect from the driver to led. I usually used a connector between switch and driver so that it could be disassembled easily. You can glue the driver to the malkoff or it might fit the original hole in the bottom. For the 3C I’d use a amc7135 105c board. The 2 AA light would need a boost driver with modes. Something maybe like this. http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025059.CF-17mm-0_9V-3_3V-4-Groups-2-to-5-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board
You would probably destroy the original driver getting it out but the mod would give you modes and possible more lumens.
Sorry I don’t have any better pics than that, these are couple years old.
This one is of the battery side. That little notch you see was my way of creating a battery vent path encase one decide to go boom, I used 18650’s mostly and sometimes 32650’s. That notch leads right to the switch button hole.
This is where your wires would come out the bulb end. Sorry for the crappy pic.
One more thing I might add, the original switch has like a plastic pedestal on it (bulb end). Just cut all that crap off and that will give you a half inch or so of room between heat sink and switch to run wires and driver.
Alkalines really can’t push that much current, switch to li-ion’s and the flood gate opens with driver led possibilities.
Moderator007. Thanks for the informative post and link to the boost driver! This definitely looks doable. I’ll dremel the tower as you suggested for more room. Dont plan on going back to stock anyways. Hmmm may even swap to xml with the amc7135 driver.