Maglite Switch Removal Problem

Well I’m trying to remove the switch assembly in my brand new 2D Maglite and can’t get it removed for the life of me! Was trying every Allen wrench I have (SAE & metric) and nothing but a ruined switch assembly! Now I read up online that Mag has switched to a T8 torx! I have one, force it in, nothing. The switch button is shot. It no longer operates like normal and I can feel the spring inside which seems to get in my way as I try different wrenches. I may have the head of the set screw messed up. Can’t really see inside.
Any suggestions? I’m about ready to drive it out with a hammer! I see the spring clamp inside the head at the top side of the light. Should I remove that and drive it out the top? Help!

  • Garry

Ok, well I got it out now. I took the shaft of my T8 torx to the grinder to make it easier to slide thru and finally got the set screw loosened. The switch assembly is shot as I thought. Spring bent all up and button contact doesn’t operate. So now what? Is there a way to mount a different switch? A typical tailcap switch won’t mount in the Mag body, will it. I could rob a Mag switch from an older Maglite, but I didn’t really want to do that. Any suggestions?

  • Garry

U can put a 16 amp switch from radio shack inside the mag switch.
Would show link but I am on the cell.
Switch was prolly 2-3 bucks.

What about something like the Varapower switch? Press on/off, plus pot switch for brightness.

I’d have to see these and know how I could mount it. I’d like a link to the radio shack switch if you get a chance.

if i have not done the exact same thing ! , they make that spring too tight to pass the hex wrench. my old mag was easy to open , mind you its 20years old, newer one was a no go . the cheapy fix i did was to take a regular click switch just shave the sides , rotozip the corners of the mag switch hole, drop it in. its not pretty but it works fine. forward clickies at KD if you prefer.

i dont currently have it but can post pics later if you want

+1 on radioshack switch too

Sounds like an idea. Would like to see pics if you get a chance. I like the idea of a completely different switch as I wasn’t fond of the Maglite switch after I saw it. You know I looked through numerous how-tos and videos on removing these switches and it always looked so easy! Didn’t find out about the switch to the T8 until after I ran into trouble. I wonder if I get another Maglite if I can remove the switch easily now that I know what it takes?

16amp and 10amp switches at Radio Shack. Also you can go to a good parts store. These are basically automotive switches based on a 1/2" diameter hole.

You can put one in the mag switch, but it's a lot of work to get it right. The mag switch has to be reamed out, the top of the switch you buy has to be rounded off and fit into the mag switch at the right height and the prongs have to be bent to clear the bottom. The switch has to then be glued into the mag switch. The mag switch cover fits only if you want to do some more playing.

Why not just order a new switch, or as you say, get another maglite? These mods with 1/2" diameter switches are a lot of work and a last resort.

I use a 2mm allen wrench, put it in a vise, slide the mag against it, push real hard while turning the mag and the screw comes loose. Guess the mag screws are soft enough to let the 2mm catch after a couple tries.

Ok, I have the link for the "how-to" from "the other forum". It's a fantastic "how-to" and doesn't really look that hard, so I think I'll give it a try.!%29


Good Luck and take photos!Smile

I will try to remember to take photos along the way. I'll post my build in a new thread. I do have photos of the mangled switch and all.


It wasn't really hard to put in that switch.

I have done two so far.

Good luck on your swap!

The only problem i had was rounding off around the new switch. Using a pencil rotozip attachment while i was holding it lol Butterfingers is all. lol

I'd just run to Wally World and get a whole new light. Then you have a complete set of spare parts also. Faster and cheaper than shipping.

Yes, torx sucks. I hate the goddam things. With A Passion!


Hehe. My entire car seems like it is held together with Torx and E-Torx (external Torx)

Im not so fond of them myself sometimes.....

I removed mine successfully w/ a Torx T7 key. Mine is a Maglite 2D XP-E. They've changed to Torx on the switch for the Rebel/XP-E 2D/3D Maglite's.

It was a folding Torx set from OSH and the T7 key was barely long enough (and thin enough) to slide thru' the hole in the switch to get to the screw (I tried a different folding Torx set from another store and the shafts on that set were too thick to get thru' the hole). Lowe's might have a similar mini folding Torx set that works.

The Torx folding set from OSH:

Lowe's :

An L-shape Torx key would be thin enough and also longer but not readily available from local stores (you can find them online).

I hunted everywhere I could think of to find a torx thin enough. The problem was allrather smaller sizes tapered to a larger diameter within 10mm of the tip.

I ended up spending time with a 1/2" belt sander reducing the shank OD. Once I got it small enough deep enough it worked fine.

Buying another mag for parts isn't a budget option for those living outside the states. The 4D I bought on a trip stateside was less than 1/3rd of what the same light costs in Canada, and wasn't even on sale!

Ok, well after having this build completed and the rocker switch installed in the Maglite switch body I've decided to redo it with a standard clicky switch. The rocker switch was really difficult to operate - even if you removed the Mag's rubber switch cover. It was also difficult to operate to switch modes. Mounting the rocker switch wasn't that bad at all. Here are photos of the rocker switch:

And here is the fit of the new reverse clicky:

The reverse clicky switch is a 20mm for a C8 bought from Manafont. It fits perfect into the hole I made for mounting the rocker switch. In fact, I can solder the outer connection ring on the back of the switch's circuit board directly to the silver battery tab seen in the bottom of the switch in the photo above. I will also glue the switch in place around the edges. It's not finished yet.

To anyone else in a similar situation, I recommend mounting the clicky and not using the rocker switch (unless you need a switch capable of handling more than 3 amps).