making a small batch of Texas Avenger "TA" Drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

Here’s how mine works… your results might vary.

Convoy L6

TA Driver Infineon LDO Tactical 65° with Narsil V1.2 ?

From off…
–1/2 press of rear tail switch = momentary on (in Turbo) for signaling or instant glimpses.

From off…
-Full click on rear tail switch turns on to Turbo.

Side switch then controls:

>-Click = On / Off (with memory).

>-Double click = Turbo.

>-Click and hold = Ramping up or dn.

>-Long pause (1.5+ seconds) between Click & Holds continues ramping in the same direction.

>-Short pause between Click & Holds reverses ramping direction.

>-Short side switch click , turns off at any point in ramping and saves that level in memory, for when side switch turns it back on.

>-Tail click to off, or lockout, erases brightness level memory.

How do I program tail switch modes?…

A) Turbo (default)
B) 2 blinks
C) Nothing until side switch is pressed.

v1.2 has low voltage protection, but no temp control. If you do have temp control, then you have v1.4 and no lvp.

I understood it that tail switch modes had to be programmed into the firmware. They are not user adjusted. Lexel told me it was a few lines of code that had to be altered to get the tactical setting.

I specified temperature control, and they were marked as such, so I guess it is V1.4.

I misunderstood those tail switch options as being user defined. Turbo is the only way to have a momentary function, so its not bad in that respect. And a quick click of the side switch turns it off.

Looking across my acreage, I can quick scan a lot of ground in momentary mode in a second or two with it.

The ramping is awesome, and a lot more user friendly to fine tune the levels than I expected.

The faint LED could be an Infineon vs SIR800 difference, guess we’ll see.


I agree with this assessment. I have had this happen to me as well with 7135’s on 2S drivers.

new batch is almost ready to go I said I start ordering stuff when 30 drivers are requested and will order parts for 50

There’s only one 7135 on there so it looks pretty easy to swap out. Maybe you have an old driver you don’t need that you can strip a 7135 off of. If not, MTN Electronics sells them super cheap.

I actually have a stip of 7135’s, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, there’s 8 7135 on one side and the single on the other….???

Oh yeah, post #102 shows the backside. So 9 in total. I wish I knew how to narrow it down to find the faulty one.

Removing all of them and cleaning the pads is not too hard, but soldering new ones would be a pain by hand. You’d need a hot air reflow station and solder paste to do it quick and easy.

Its some pretty bad luck. If you really want to fix it, maybe ask Richard at MTN if he could do it.

I hope it’s a rare occurrence.

Package delivered today. I’ll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered that’s scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. I’ve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.

Wait what? :open_mouth: Grey battery tube for a D01? :smiling_imp:

I’ve been trying to get an idea how these are made and I found a really good video on reflow ovens. There’s lots of good info here.

Lexel, are you using a small oven like this or a different method?

I got my driver today!

I haven’t installed it yet.

For you guys with L6’s and who want to know when your rear switch is on and off as well as more easily find the side switch in the dark, then check out this thread starting at post 265.

I try my best to describe how to make a lighted side switch that comes on when the tail switch is on. It’s handy whenever you have a driver that can turn the flashlight on and off with the side switch.

I haven’t installed my TA driver yet, but I have the pads labeled where you would connect the switch and led power. I’ll be confirming all this soon.

2 decently bright leds caused a 0.4 milliamp drain. I use my light for brief blasts here and there at work and the tail switch stays on roughly 40 hours per week, then I recharge the batteries. This extra drain has no effect at all for me.

Now sitting on a shelf with the tail switch on for months at a time I’m sure would drop your battery voltage. Then again, if it’s going to sit and not be used, then turn the tail switch off. Duh. Lol

Amp draw while on standby was 0.48 milliamps. About 0.4 of that is the LEDs I added. So the driver itself is only about 0.08 milliamps. That’s lower than I expected. My Kaidoman version FX30 driver had a 1.45 milliamp draw all by itself.

I hope this helps others.

Installed one of the narsil TA drivers into my skilhunt h03 tonight. Every thing is working great, except for the indicator led which I’m sure is user error. I’ll open it up later and figure out what I did wrong.

Thanks lexel for putting these together. They all look great. Now I got a few more projects to keep me busy for a little while.

Here’s a little video of my TA driver with Narsil in an L6.

Make sure the led positive is on the indicator resistor and that polarity is correct.

I don’t know which driver you have, but there are pictures in the 1st post. It shows 2 points where the indicator led is attached. The one with the resistor is positive, the other is negative. Of course the little led your using will also have a positive and negative marking on it.

I found some instructions for version 1.2 of Narsil, but I don’t know how to enter the config mode and make changes. Can anyone explain it to me or make a video maybe?


Narsil v1.1 manual has same instructions to enter config modes as newer ones

Configuration UI Operation
For Ramping, the button is held for 8 seconds, and for Mode Sets, the button must be held for 2.5 seconds to activate the main Configuration UI settings. The light will blink 2 times quickly, and once slowly to indicate the Configuration UI mode is active. There are 7 settings, listed in the table below. You can change or leave any of these settings – there’s no need to set each one. Clicks choose the value for each setting, and each click will blink the light to acknowledge the click. If no clicks are entered in 4 seconds, the light jumps to the next configuration setting indicated by 2 quick blinks and slow quicks of the number for what setting it is (ex: 3 slow blinks means the 3rd setting). You can bypass the timeout by doing a click&hold to skip to the next setting. If you continue to hold it, it will exit configuration UI settings mode altogether, indicated by 4 quick blinks.

That’s just a copy and paste from the manual which is not too clear for my understanding.

So I hold down the side switch 8 seconds to go onto config mode. That I know.

If I want to disable all blinkies for instance, do I then click 7 times and wait for a confirmation, then click once to change the setting? Maybe it blinks once to confirm?

Then do I press and hold the switch to exit?

It will progress though each setting number. It will flash 5 times to indicate your on setting number 5, then make your choice, let it time out or skip to go to setting 6. To disable bpinkies wait until it gets all the way to setting 8, then press one time.

Yes to exit just press and hold