I haven’t gotten any trits from Bart yet, nor do I have the NOA to set em. I’ve only got one loose trit, and it’s purple, so I need some new ones.
Yeah, those 2 slots are sitting there crying out for attention…right? lol
Holy crap this light cures NOA fast. I did a test to see if mine was still good and it actually smoked and then cured solid in about 1 second ! Thats a crazy amount more output than my old light and even more UV than you get from the sun, as i find it takes about 30min to an hour in the sun to cure my NOA.
On the down side, my 1.5x5 trits don’t fit in a Sage 2 (for some reason they measure out at 6mm total length) , the screw head gets in the way so they don’t sit below the surface of the titanium. Now i remember why i have 2 spare trits lying around 
My daughter came down to my workshop to see what i was doing and got interested, so we added a trit to her el-01, looks pretty sweet with the new school tritium and old school wood liners contrasting nicely. after a couple of tests, I found that the NOA actually cures better if you do it slower, so i started about 1 foot away for 30 seconds then moved closer for 10 seconds once it was hard just to finish it off. No smoke this way and a much clearer cure.
Excellent news on the NOA curing, I figured it’d be among the best out there according to the specs. Pretty sweet!
That green trit does indeed look nice in the wood scales. Nice work. 
In that case I seriously doubt its an LEDENGIN emitter, are you sure? What did you pay for it? Can you post a pic of the emitter? also being able to focus that tight is it dedomed?
The subject line says it’s a 1000mW blue laser that he got in Beijing.
De-doming the LED ENGIN LZ1 UV emitter is not recommended. It’s a glass dome, interlocked into the substrate. Trying to remove it will almost assuredly kill the emitter.
I just tried my 2 UV lights one against the other. My previous one that came highly recommended is so weak next to this LED ENGIN LZ1. I tried em on my Transitions glasses lenses. After about 30 seconds of moving the light back and forth across the lens from about 1- 1 1/2 inches away, it was getting kind of smoky with the old light.
With the LZ1, they went very dark smoke, almost black, in about 2 seconds! Near instantaneous change, very impressive! And plenty wide enough that it wasn’t necessary to move the light around. Neat to be able to see such an instant result. I’m betting the result with Norland is equally impressive.
My L2C is together!
I was able to fit the LZ1 on an xml color sinkPAD so I’m running it slightly overdriven @ 1.4A.
First I cut the traces from the 2 center connections on each side and marked it to cut it down to 16mm to fit the P60 pill.
Then cut it down and had a hell of a time breaking the contunity between , - and GND doing so caused. I had to cut away the outside of the and - pad’s.
Mounted
I’m using a UI I developed for weapon mounted / tactical lights. 100% on and a hidden strobe.
C-K: how is the fun seeing the performance for the first time ? 
I was having a great time pointing it around at everything :-)
I know how it is like to sand down 20mm XML-colour boards to 16mm, I have done that twice and yes I got shorts as well that I had to fix :-(
I have a few trits on the way, and have one that I put on the Courui D01 that’s converted to MT-G2. But I used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and made a bed for the trit to lay in, the glass tube was exposed on top and sides. So a few minutes ago, for the very first time, I put some N61 on top of the trit and fired up my LED-Engin UV light. Wow! About a minute and the clear epoxy was hard as glass! This is cool! I now have a nice crystal clear dome over the trit, not gonna get broken now! (Well, it’d be really difficult anyway)
I have some ice blue trits coming, and I plan to use 4 in the copper quad surround in conjunction with the XP-L V6 3D’s. I’ll probably polish the copper on top and coat it with Norland so it’ll stay shiny copper red to enhance the ice blue trits.
Lord have mercy on my soul…