Makita ni-cd problem please help

These are excellent for cordless tools:

VTC5 http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_357766.html

or these, which cost less and have a little less capacity:

VTC4 http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_193095.html

They can handle 30 Amperes. :slight_smile:

If you’re in a hurry buy them here:

Because I have a cordless drill and an adapter thats why :smiley:

on paper maybe, in reality, 1,5v is no load voltage of freshly charged cells, it will sag to 1,2-1,25 as load applied.

try it, motors are not as sensitive to voltage as bulbs, as long as winding insulation can take it, they will eat up extra voltage. you also have resistor in a “trigger” that allows for variable speed, that may not like extra voltage as well, it may seem like only 3v, but at load drills of that voltage can take up to 20 amps, that is 60 watts extra. that is a lot of extra wattage for resistor.

sorry but you are out of luck here, i was in the same boat, tried many different 4\5sub c cells and none held up good, you wont find any cells of that size that are good. no reputable manufacturer makes this size now, tenergy does, but their sub c cells are good i used them to recell my drills, both still work great, however i bought tenergy 4\5 once, (iirc green wrapper), half of them failed shortly after.

Since Li-on jumps in large voltages your choices are 2S and 3S. I’ve always gone up. So far nothing has burned out. Biggest problem is getting good cells, preferably with tabs.

It doesn’t work like that. The 1.3ah is just the capacity the drill will use much more amperage current then that. Under load at least 10+ amps. Lithium drills under load pull above 30 Amps at times. They usually use the cells in a series and parallel configuration to draw extra power.

The drill will work with 12v, however a wall adapter usually only does a few amps or even less, which will make the drill weak when trying to get anything intensive done.
A 12v lead acid battery would work fine, those can do many tens of amps usually.

Hey Buzz, maybe this is good:

There’s no product info, but you could email or call them, but it’s probably NiCd.
Not cheap though…

take it apart test each cells voltage …. then throw it away

I’ve rebuilt a few pack for Habitat for Humanity. Try here http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm No idea about Europe or the Netherlands but in the States many stores like Lowes and Home Depot have recycles bins up front. I tell them I rebuild power pack and for who. They usually let me pull a few packs for the cells. NiMh is very forgiving with slightly mismatched cells.

NiCd cells compared to NiMh is a big difference. NiCd get cell memory, less capacity, less cycles.

Usually one of the cells is done. Best would be to open the pack and check the cells separately.
The weakest cell (one is always the weakest when the pack is not assembled with matched cells) is the one to be killed by deep-discharing while working in battery packs used in high amp tools.
I´m working with Ni-cd cells for over 20 years now, forget the freezer !

Yes, there is a difference comparing NiCd cells to NiMh cells.

I definitely prefer NiCd cells !

Cell memory: Yes, but only if you do not discharge them properly before charging !

Cycles and lifetime: NiMh cells usually have less cycles and you better don´t leave them for a longer time without recharging. Self-drain really is a problem on NiMh cells (exept eneloops and similar cells). I had a lot of rc-cells dying over the winter time. That never happened to my NiCd racing packs.

Capacity: Yes, NiCd capacity is usually lower.

LiIon battery packs really are a blessing anyway !

Right !

i did just that to a 12v craftsman.#10 red/black zipcord about 10’,anderson powerpole set,and a set of battery clips to powerpoles.
works better than with a pack despite the wire length.
got to be careful as no polarity protection so if it gets reversed its dead!
your 9.6 motor may even be the same used in a 12v model.if you dont intend to buy/rebuild packs it is worth a try.

remember that at near stall that drill may pull 50+ amps.
so no walwart thing will do.and heavy wire is a must.

it is sub c size, he needs 4\5 sub c. it is not nicd, no nicd of that size have 3ah, this is nimh, which woulkd not be much of an issue if the size was right,

Panasonic is known for making good quality cells. if he can find 4\5 sub c from them i’d say grab them, but it wont be cheap. also for drill packs you want paper wrapper, not plastic, it melts when cells heat up, and they do when drill stalls.

Why not open the cell and replace with a LiPo 3S pack.
Have the option to pull out the balance port for a small smart charger like this one

It's total conversion time, Buzzing Bulb (if you dare, of course).

Go 3S li-ion/LiFePO4. Since you're in the Netherlands, take a look here: https://eu.nkon.nl

The good thing with NKON is they can tab the cells for you (for a small fee of course).

A forolinternas buddy recently restored his drill pack with Sanyo UR18650NSX cells and he seemed quite happy with the result. VTC5As would do better. If you have room, I'm pretty sure the all the rage LiitoKala 26650A(B)s will do super for the price. Also, you could also go 3S ANR26650M1Bs…

You'll also need a proper BMS with balance (or an additional balance board, check here: 4-cell 18650 Li-ion / LiFePO4 Battery Pack Voltage Current Balancing Board), a proper CC/CV module (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Non-Isolated-Constant-Current-And-Voltage-Lithium-Charger-Power-Supply-Module-5A-LED-driver/32665140766.html) and a wall wart/supply with enough output voltage (hint: maybe an old laptop one).

Cheers ^:)

That sounds like way to much trouble ( read I don’t dare :blush: )
Gonna buy me a replacement replica from here