Manafont "Triple T6 Cree Circuit Board Driver" - Macros

my camera (and I) suck at macros…but here we go

Thank you.

Hmmm...all of mine have the chips filed down.

I wonder what state secrets they are trying to hide.

For the chips, one is a diode, one is a FET …. Wait a minute, someone is banging on the door…

This is the CIA, user relic38 has been incarcerated for espionage. :smiley:

Looks like three current sense resistors there. One R100, one R250, and one mystery value under the R250.
This is where you would add a resistor (on top of the R100) to bump up the drive current. :wink:

excellent thanks, relic

(this thread was started to continue the resistor discussion w/o thread crapping elsewhere :slight_smile: )

so - would we need to know the mystery resistor value to make an accurate estimate on what to use?

I get 4.3A at emitter for xml/xml2 - but actually got much lower current to an mtg2 than ima4wheeler got (probably because of the stock leads and my test leads).

Its probably safe to assume 3.5-4A at 6V

I’d be happy with at least 5, and no more than 6 amps…

It would help to have all of the resistor values. If we assume the safer value of R250, then we have 0.056 Ohms total. If that’s 4A then the voltage is 0.056Ohms * 4A = 0.226V on the resistors. This is a pretty common feedback voltage, actually. To get ~5.5A, the resistance = 0.226V / 5.5A = 0.0411 Ohms.
You need to add one R180 (0.18 Ohm) resistor to get 0.043 Ohms, to err on the side of caution. This is all based on the assumption that there is an R250 under the R250. :wink:
Edit: Assuming an R250 under the R250 is not a safe assumption. In fact the safer assumption is to assume there is a smaller value there. As it turns out, it’s probably an R200, based on a newer version of that driver (pic below from ImA4Wheeler). Because of that, an R180 is going to be a lot closer to 5A. Maybe go with R200 or R220, just off the cuff values. Too lazy to calculate this time :wink:

sounds likely to me, thanks

I may be remembering wrong, but I’m confident mine have 3 sense resistor pads. I think they are labeled R5, R6, & R7. I can check tonight when I get home.

EDIT: Another potential difference. I have two sets of positive and negative wires (one connected to each side of the vertical board) feeding the MT-G2. Did that because of long wire length and tightness of gap below the reflector. I don’t recall the gauge, but it’s thick by flashlight standards. I also have my battery feeds directly soldered to the driver and then going directly to the battery terminals (no springs or other connections in between). My on/off switch is between the 2 batteries (Judco 10amp. Also directly connected.) In summary, there should be very low resistance and low chance of any weak connections that can be caused by threads, etc.

Does yours work with 2 li-ion cells in series? I got mine to replace the driver which eventually blew on my SR3800 but it’s just moonlight modes at 8.4v and I don’t have any 3 series hosts to put it in.

I just logged on to Manafont and double checked what I ordered. It is the same driver you have linked above. I’ll check tonight and if different I’ll post a macro of it.

yup, ima4wheeler and I are both using 2S cells. I haven’t tried 3S.

I just noticed another difference. Mine has some type of epoxy between the to boards. It covers some of the components too. I would probably destroy the driver trying to separate the boards.

Interesting. When did you buy it?

The one I have in a light looks like the one pictured, and I bought that over a year ago. I got my other two from another member a couple months ago, and I think he bought them before I bought my first one.


Oh dear, I’m probably too late to contact manafont about it now too.

I had thought about using it in the DRY but even after seperating the boards and wiring connections so they aren’t at a right angle anymore it still didn’t fit.

Ok. They must have changed the driver design, but not updated the website pictures or they sent me something different. 3 sensor resistor pads, R2, R5, R7 with R200, R250, and R100, respectively. Here is a picture:

Huh? .200 .250 .250 ohms all together, how is .056 calculated?

definitely a change, and not just position of r2, because my r2 says 103 on it

Is the R2 you’re refering to on the same side of the same board? I ask because I doubt the driver boards are coordinated that well with each other. I wouldn’t be surprised if you saw the same addresses (i.e. R2) on both sides of the same board.