Hello Guys!
It seems that I managed to swap emitter in Manker E02ii in non destructive way, and it makes me very happy! 
(almost, more on that later)
Basically after lot of trial and error and trying to pry open retaining ring from outside, and testing some other people ideas,
I got the idea that the ring could be glued to the outer shell with some adhesive, so I wanted to heat it up but precisely the ring.
As it is also made propably from aluminium and its thermal mass is way lesser than shell’s so i tried with soldering iron with small tip and a bit of solder at the end.
I heated it up until shell head became warm to touch(around 50C), and quickly used stiff flathead screwdriver to poke it from outside.
You have to be very careful with poking and have sharp stiff screwdriver. You put a leverage on one of your fingers to not to destroy some elements on PCB, but you have to have strong hands. If you don’t have strong hands you can make some wooden brick in size to put into the entrance of head and lay your lever on the wooden block.
And bob’s your auntie!(or something you say in US xD) You got your manker in parts!
I used my soldering iron to reflow the emitter because it seems like safer option. And as i went inside anyway, i added a bit of leaded solder to every joint, exchanged a bad screw holding pcb (seems it was “how ya doin” from factory), smear some new paste and put it back together.
The only thing that is biting my ass is that the emitter i put in is not as warm as i wanted. It supposed to be Nichia 219b 3500K but is much colder, but still nice colours, a world away from that green crap before. Now i have to order a proper diode and make this operation once again xD
I really like this little lamp because of its UI and lightness, but always suffered from that greenness.
I recorded some operation parts on the phone so if you guys want i can make some video on youtube.
Hope it is some kind of helpful for someone. Sorry for mistakes, this is not my first language.
And here are some pics:
That’s not even screwed? just glued on?
very interesting, thank you for the tips: I’ll think about modding mine now
Nope, the ring is pressed in, Im not even sure if it is glued. There was a bit of residue but very little.
Nice job, I would love to see the videos.
Impressive that you were able to do that! Glad you got something that suits you better and shared with us! Wonder if I just won the tint lottery or did you get the cool white version. My neutral white version (SST-20 4000K) is my favorite light. Love the TIR, and the tint. Of course the size, the clip, right angle, and excellent UI really set this light apart from all others for me. I am just fortunate that the tint and temp work great for me as well.
Just ordered an EO3H II in the NW, and hope that the tint will be good on that light and that it won’t be too large to do everything that makes the E02 II so great! Wish I had your skills for the swap and I would change out the awful tint of my SP10 Pro ’cause other than that it is a fantastic light. As much as I like the UI of the E02 II, I also love Anduril 2!
Love everything about my TS10 Pro except for the switch and the clip. You have inspired me to work harder to get the tail cap off and fix the switch. Not sure I care so much about the clip any more as it is so small that it can just be loose in my pocket and one of the mankers will take the role of a clipped light.
This is great info! I have been trying to disassemble mine with no success! How exactly did you do this? Could you send some photos/video of where you push the screwdriver in? Thanks!
I had a cool white version and it was awful greenish.
I made a video, maybe it will help someone. Basically You have to push from the inside out using your fingers or some block as leverage.
And here’s the video guys, hope you’ll enjoy it:
Thank you that’s very helpful! I didn’t think it was possible to remove the little positive PCB, I will try harder!
Driver-led PCB Alu or ordinary? 
The PCB for the battery pops out.
seems interesting
PCB is ordinary two-sided with vias under emitter and gold plating.
Yeap, almost Zebralight , not ;))
Its a AAA light, its not exactly pumping out the heat
I measured ~173mA on Low and 630mA on High @1,3V which gives 0,225W and 0,819W respectively. And this is total power consumption.
Subtract from this assumed let’s say 20% light emitting efficiency, and for my taste this is still enough to serve this diode without aluPCB
Maybe on lithium cell on turbo numbers would skyrocket, but I have no intend to use it that way. And if I had, and if I remember correctly there’s
some temperature stepdown implemented.
I haven’t measured the current on mine. However, your numbers line up pretty well with my runtimes. The SST-20 in mine might pull a touch more on high but right in the ballpark. Over the past couple of years it has been rock solid reliable. Never worry about temp. Only use niMh. Excellent task light. Also great for walking the pooches in a neighborhood where I need to be able to see ice and pavement imperfections as well as be able to see to pick up the doo doo. I don’t need to see out 100 meters and don’t want to disturb my neighbors.
Looks like really nice headlamp for NiMh generation. ;))
Yep 
and I will gladly consider some other lightweight options if You can recommend something that doesn’t cost an arm and leg
Sofirn HS10 is easy to mod.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803361778447.html
I posted a thread about it here:
I got HS10 and it’s ok for me with 4000K stock one The only downside is i don’t have couple spare 16340’s, but I have a lot of nimh AAA’s
And on today’s running it flated out couple mins before end But yep, it’s still a great light and one of my favourite ones, and first choices.
I also like my H04 with 519A, but it is a heavier caliber, especially for running, but first choice for mountain hikes