Manker E02II with red emitter?

Are there any suitable red emitters for a Manker E02II?

10440 might be too much for a red emitter with the current driver. But AAA?

I was looking for something that would go lower than a Zebralight SC64c LE. Manker E02II was recommended due to it having multiple moonlight modes, an improved UI, and a small size (AAA/10440):

I went ahead and got an E02II. I liked the rosy tint so much that I got an E03HII too.

Slightly rosy tint:
Manker E02II NW SN 20200848
Manker E03HII NW SN 20200672.

Manker recently released coloured versions of the E02II. With the Sofirn C01R having just been released/sold-out, the thought of a small red headlamp with a decent UI came to mind. I do have a Zebralight H502pr but I run the risk of accidentally entering High mode with a single click.

I ordered the Manker E02II Red NW SN 20201484 and it has a slightly green tint (more motivation to swap it and proceed with the idea). :student:

WIP:

Stock Manker E02II

Emitter: Luminus SST20 (Neutral White: 4000K CRI>95)
Powered by: AAA or 10440
Working Voltage: 0.7-1.8V, 3.0-4.3V

Luminus SST-20-DR 660nm Deep Red

Datasheet
Digikey
Sofirn

3535 with dome.

Forward Voltage at 350mA:
1.8V (minimum)
2.05 (typical)
2.6V (max)

Would I need to boost 0.7-1.8V somehow to use an Eneloop AAA?

There’s a chance the stock boost circuit will run the red emitter as is. You could always try it. Modes spacing might change but it’s worth trying. Id love to hear what you find as I have a red and gold version on their way. Sad to hear the new batch has a green tint. I actually had plans of swapping the red one to the deep red sst20 i have laying here too!

I characterised input current vs voltage the other day with Ni-mh and Li-ion on the E03H II (should be similar, just lower) the other day :

So it’s constant current out (constant power in) with Ni-mh but not with li-ion, with Ni-mh it should work like JaredM said, with li-ion, unsure, looks like some sort of direct drive but I don’t see any PWM with a camera, I can’t test for high frequency PWM.

I’m following your thread to see how you will open it. I managed to unscrew the tube with a strap wrench and heat, but then the optical block must be removed, on the E02/03 I the bezel was screwed on and could be unscrewed by pressing it on rubber or adhesive to gain sufficient friction on the ring. Here I can’t make it bulge at all.
Thus I am wondering if the ring is press fitted, in that case removing it would require to destroy the TIR lens, which would mean that a replacement needs to be found, maybe some small Yajiamei TIR lens will fit but maybe not… I didn’t really want to risk not having a good replacement.

There I dumped my worries on you and now I wish you good luck :wink:

Thanks :smiley:

I’ll spend the next week or two trying to get the bezel to unscrew from the red E02II while waiting for some SST20-DR emitters to arrive. I tried to use some rubber to unscrew the bezel on my black E02II a few weeks ago but it wouldn’t move. :weary:

Is the thread on the tube at the head like most other tubes and not reverse threaded?

I.e. If I grip the tailcap and turn it counter-clockwise to open it, I should be able to also grip the tube and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew the tube from the head.

I only ask because I’ve made things worse in the past by turning a reverse threaded pill clockwise with a Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 :stuck_out_tongue:

Normal threads.

Thanks! Glued :cry:

On the other forum, Vinh Nguyen is selling E02 II’s with your LED of choice. Red is one option.

Tear Down: Manker E02 old version

Interesting. He’s using XPE2 Red:
https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/manker-e02vn-ii-you-pick-led-limited-run

I wonder why XPE2 Red was chosen…

CREE XP-E2 Photo Red 650-670nm

Datasheet

I have a few of the earlier Sofirn C01R’s with this emitter:

Forward Voltage at 350mA:
2.05 (typical)
2.5V (max)

Yes :frowning:

It needed quite a bit of force, actually I said strap wrench but I used a lever and rope coiled on the tube (and heat).

That’s good to know, so it can probably by poped up at the expense of the TIR optic.

How does the press fit process work?

Does Manker glue the TIR in and then snap the stainless steel bezel into place? Is everything just glued in?

I’m thinking of drilling a small hole in the TIR and then applying some heat to the body while using a pick to pull the TIR out.

If you are willing to sacrifice the TIR, drill a small hole right under the edge of the bezel and pry it up. First, id recommend tryin freezing the bezel with an inverted can of co2 to shrink it. Act fast before it transfers to the aluminum.

Thanks! I was going to try to drill through the centre. I guess it’s easier to get leverage by drilling near the edge. :slight_smile:

I drilled a few holes into the TIR and used circlip pliers to pull the TIR out because the bezel is press fit:

View post on imgur.com

I drilled a little too far:

I also tried using a strap wrench to remove the tube but it didn’t move:

I’ll try to use a hair dryer to heat up the glue and remove the tube next…