ME4056 Tiny charge board similar to TP4056

Found these Little buggers on ebay. Intend to integrate into a small flashlight.
1A ME4056 2.54mm Pitch Linear Charging Battery Charger Board 5V to 4.2V 3.7V
Separate link to the Description Page
Seller has been great and quickly answered questions.
Seller part #: DD08CRMB
The dimensions are 12.3mm*10mm*4mm
Datasheet #1 ME4056_E2.0
Datasheet #2 from Micro One

Similar to the TP4056, the ME4056 also uses a resistor to change charge current.
Program pin is #3 on the ME4056 and the associated resistor was the 1001 (1 kΩ) value is on the side opposite of the board. Easy to remove and replace.
I used an 0805 size 222 (2.2 kΩ) resistor to lower current to 550mA. The chip does heat up and result is lower current out. I stuck it to some copper with thermal tape and current increased 40mA immediately.
From what I understand, if this charger is permantly mounted and has constant voltage supplied, it will not charge a cell until it is 80% voltage, about 3.6V. So in a situation where it is charging a cell and you disconnect the power, it will not resume if cell voltage is already over 3.6-3.7V. Neat feature for a fixed device but perhaps no too good for a portable device.
With power connected but no cell present it seems to hunt for something to charge. The green LED is dim and red has a dim slow blink. Very similar to my single cell Olight style USB magnet charger.

Charging a 30Q on the bench

The 30Q is still charging as I type this. now at 4.10V the current is 300mA.

My ultimate goal is to return charging ability to my modded Clone of OTR M3. This light killed the charge circuit on the first charge. Since then the Clone M3 has been modded to Fet+1 using the D4 style ramping IU and also has a green lighted SW button. The SW button will be again modded to have the Red charge indicator for one of the SW LEDs. More on that later when I get all this SHTuff, stuffed in that little light.

Oh yeah, and this magnetic charge connector. :smiley:

I am by no means electronically inclined so be kind

Looks like an adequately sized heat sink… :wink:

Nice. Looks like you’ve already sanded that one down a little, what size do you think is possible to take the board down to - 10mm x 8mm or less?

Just nipped the corners a bit, mostly at the wire holes.
I don’t see much to take off the side for width, but certainly could cut off the wire holes and go direct to components. And I may have to do that. I think minimum would be 9mmX9.5mm

I tried to cut off the wire connection holes to reduce size even more. Well, I failed to see that the holes are via’s to the other side for some components. Don’t do it board will not work unless modded further.

Thanks for the heads up vwpieces. All good info. :THUMBS-UP:

vwpieces, have you tried connecting up off the board indicator led’s?

Not yet but my intentions were to remove the red from board and ad it to my SW board. And Still keep one green on all time to illuminate SW button.
Some quick probing… I do not think I will be able to relocate the red to my SW board with a single wire, common ground. I believe I will need 2 wires to it to get full function indicator red relocated.
I think that is what you are asking?

Yes, that is more or less what I was wondering. As well as simply running wires to a non-smd type led.

I need to take time and do some smd component install and removals now that I have a hot air unit. Maybe play with led colors or resistor values on a Q8 switch board. Have to start somewhere. :stuck_out_tongue:

I added more to the previous post…

Be careful heating the SW. :smiley: Got spares?
Do you have an L6? The L6 SW board has provisions for SMD LEDs. Cool project to ad some to it, but you will need an inline resistor. No provisions for resistor.
I like lighted tails too. But the Lexel design SW boards for Q8 should fit L6 too.
Saw your new station, I like it.
No hot air station here. I just use a wide tip with a blob and wipe from the side, wick excess solder off pads and pen flux (helps stick down component mostly). Change to small tip to re install, holding component down with pointy tweezers. All under a 6X lighted magnifier.

No L6. I have some old assorted boards, a couple of drivers with s-o-s blinkies I swapped out… remove and replace a 7135 or something for practice. Also some TP4056’s I could RdR smd led’s.

I should get a stronger magnifier I think. Mine’s maybe a 2-1/2X

Finished the Clone M3 using the ME4056 charger board and magnetic connector.
Here is a link to some pics and quick over view.

Mentioned earlier that the board may not turn on until the 80% 3.6-3.7V. Not the case, it charges every time I plug it in if the battery is not fully charged.
Perhaps that only pertains to a fixed constant 5V supply or there is way to trigger it that I am not aware of.

I have some ME4056 boards coming. I’ll run some tests with almost full (3.9-4.0 volt) cells. Might be a week or so still.

Some discussion on the S42 getting revamped drivers with Narsil and keeping the charge circuit. Going to suggest a look at this chip to integrate.
I am getting 0.350mA drain on the Clone with one green LED on the SW button.
The charge board seem to go to sleep, pretty well, undetectable.

That’s cool Don. Would like to see your input.

Forgot until now, but I held up some 0000 steel wool to the magnetic charge connector on the light, NO Fires

What about on the cable?

Is the magnet on the cable or the light?

I’ve been sceptical of those magnetic connectors.

Both the cable and port on light are magnetic.

Asking if the cable will start a fire is a Loaded question. Unplugged, No.
An AAA battery will start 0000 steel wool on fire. It’s a power source.
If the cable does or doesn’t start a fire while plugged into power would depend on the power supply You choose to use. Neither the charge board (thread topic) or the cable came supplied with a power adapter.
All the AC power adapters I have will shut off the LED (kill power) on cable if the cable magnet gets stuck to bare metal and a direct short. That is good enough for me.
Car adapters will be checked next for direct short, to make sure if the cable gets stuck to a seat frame, the adapter will shut down power supply.
I don’t use power banks.

Nice little PCB :THUMBS-UP:

Ooh, they have all kinds of those little boards.

Loaded question? Like a negative or trick question? No, I was asking about the safety aspect. Like if I had it in my car and the cable were to drop on the floor and grab onto the seat frame. I wouldn’t want it to short out or be ruined.

The light having a magnet also is something I don’t like. It might get things sticking to the light, like powdered metal, keys, etc… or even damage something magnetic next to it like a credit card or something.

Why do you like it so much over the regular micro usb port?

Maybe this style of magnetic port would be better? I think the small side is just metal with the magnet side on the cable. Maybe it’s too wide?

It could be glued into place and sealed up on the light.

I have no idea what you may want to plug the cable it into. How can I answer that? My mind went 1000 different ways when I thought about it.

The clip on my Clone covers the connector. Nothing really sticks to the magnet, by itself, the magnet on the port is not that strong. But it is a strong connection when both the magnets are connected. If metal shavings or dust get on the connector I can use the tail magnet, that is stronger, to remove the debris.
I completely removed the micro USB from the connector backing and from the light. This connector is pretty much bombproof and Waterproof.

The above connector you show has Data and charge. I chose the small 8mm round power only for the size. The small size, charge only are getting hard to find.