That’s a fantastic update! So, the only “user-side” changes to your driver with the 1634 are the larger code space, so you can fit all of your desired features in, and the removal of the VCC flashing via, which you discovered wasn’t needed. Is that right? Will you be making a list of features once it is ready? Also, are you going to make these driver boards available for sale?
very nice. Until I joined BLF I thought all a flashlight could do was switch on a LED. this is really great.
In the case of these “normal” flashlight drivers, yes. I will be using the additional pins in my headlamp projects with two E-switches, FET and separate 7135/A705 banks for each LED. For “normal” lights I don’t really need the extra pins, but as the pins are there either way I’d rather have the option to be able to use them instead of the 841’s useless non connected pins which just waste space (six of them).
Yes. It was only a few hours ago I got the necessary features working in order to approve it as a replacement for my drivers. Once again the plan is to release a sort of basic firmware that supports off switch, dual switch and E-switch only. I didn’t get around to it on the 841 because hitting the 8kb limit put me off continuing.
Yes. I’ll start with one or two of the two layer boards with fairly basic firmware to see if there is any real interest. Then with the additional 8K I could even give that flashing by phone a go, at least if someone can make the phone/computer app part. I ain’t gonna spend any time learning how to do that stuff, I’ve got enough to do as it is.
Thanks Mike. I just downloaded the datasheet for the 1634. It has two PWM timers, and one of them is 16 bit! Do you think that will ever be useful for possibly more fine-tuned modes, ramping, or something else?
I don’t know yet but I’m going to find out as I’ve used one of the 16 bit PWM pins for one of the LEDs in my dual LED headlamp project. For these “normal” lights I didn’t dare as I don’t need to fine tine low/moon modes to that degree so I played it safe, but we’ll see. I’ve also designed a development breakout board with vias for every pin to ease testing new things. I put a bunch of extra stuff on it like LDOs, voltage dividers, digital pots, several caps and so on, and everything is connected by vias only so pin changing is a matter of moving a wire. I’m fed up with mucking about modding existing drivers for tests like this.
Awesome! I’ll be watching here. :nerd_face:
Updated OP with two shared projects (F-2 and F-4) and some info.
I’m interested in a fully built F-4 if you get around to selling them. I’ve always admired your PWM-less mode steps, accomplished by using multiple output channels. The way I remember it, you were the true father of multi-channel drivers on BLF.
Cool. I’ve got new ones from OSH Park on the way, I’ll have a few to spare so I’ll make one for you. I’ll ask about what UI, modes, volt levels and so on once it’s built.
I don’t remember who it was that had the original idea to do it with 7135s. It was some guy using a PIC MCU instead of AVR, and maybe had a USB cable interface directly on the driver (maybe mixing up projects here). Anyhow, I wasn’t first and it sure wasn’t my idea… but I liked it 
Edit: I found it… the project didn’t see completion, at least here at BLF: The World's Most Advanced AMC7135 * 8 Driver
Oh yeah. I’m subscribed to that thread! But I forgot about him, to be honest.
I’ve fully converted my 841 firmware to the 1634. However, the 841 firmware wasn’t fully completed but it’s good enough to go. Still interested? If so I have a few questions for you:
Currently only 1S configuration supported. Is that what you had in mind? I haven’t gotten around to 2S yet, it requires some firmware changes that I won’t be doing before I go on two months vacation in September.
Do you want it configured for E-switch, Off-switch or dual switch? Can be changed in config menu, but to do the change the driver has to be in a light that supports current switch config before installing in the new light.
What UI? Currently I have three UIs:
1: “Traditional” UI with up to 4 modes. Short press up, long press down. If UI1, how many modes do you want?
2: UI with two modes. Short press cycles between them, long press enables ramping for current mode (Short press brighter, long press dimmer). 2 seconds of inactivity saves new mode level, blinks and returns to normal.
3: Constant ramping mode. Short press brighter, long press dimmer. I use this as “campsite” mode so that no accidental single press can flash full boost in someone’s face.
Voltage monitoring on or off? When on, critical voltage level can either warn or turn off and put light in sleep mode. If on, what levels?
Temperature monitoring on or off? When on, critical temperature can either warn or turn off and put light in sleep mode. Critical level is about 5 degrees Celsius higher than configurable high temp. Default high temp is set to 70 degrees Celsius. How hot this actually is depends on host as MCU is measuring the temp, and MCU placement and thermal isolation will impact.
I have 4 user modes (higher user mode includes all lower user mode functionality):
1 - Normal: Can’t do any read outs, functions or configuration changes except change the user mode (requires a timed sequence of 10 presses).
2 - Advanced: Voltage and temperature readouts, can change UIs, mode settings and boost timers.
3 - Expert: Able to configure voltage and temperature monitoring settings and levels.
4 - Engineer: Calibrations. Your driver will be calibrated, so you shouldn’t need to calibrate unless you want to play around with it.
Do you use any blinkies? I have a simple strobe, beacon and SOS. Not fully implemented though.
Finally, do you flash drivers yourself? If so I can send you the driver earlier and later send you hex files for updated firmware.
OK. I’ve been really busy at work lately. I’ll try to get answers to your questions soon.
OKAY. I have some answers for you now…
- 1S operation? Yes - 1S only
- E-switch, Power cycle, or Dual switch? Power cycle switching
- Which UI? Traditional, with 4 modes. First mode 1 lumen - possible?
- Voltage Monitoring? Yes - 2.8V warn only
- Temp Monitoring? Yes - Sleep at Critical temp
- User Mode? 3 - Expert
- Blinkies? No thanks
- Do I flash drivers? Not currently, but I hope to some day
Thanks. First mode 1 lumen is a little bit unsure as I don’t actually know what 1 lumen looks like. Is that just enough to find your keys and unlock a door?
I forgot to mention that with voltage monitoring I have both low and critical levels. Low voltage disengages boost/turbo, otherwise by default it doesn’t step down (only blinks a warning). Critical (if not set to sleep) steps down to the highest mode under a set limit, which is 1 x 7135 full on (at 2.8V the LED won’t shine any brighter anyway). The 2.8V you specified, as that low or critical? If critical, what do you want low at (or vice versa).
Depends on the eyes.
See What moonlight output do you prefer and why?
For some 1 lm is disturbingly high, for some it’s uselessly low. It seems that for good majority it would indeed be enough.
Yeah, I’m just throwing 1lm out there as a general idea, really. I want it bright enough to see around with dark adjusted eyes. My real use for this is early rising, trying not to disturb my wife. So, a low level, but enough to see within 3 to 4 meters, maybe. My Olight S1A is rated at 0.5lm and that isn’t quite enough.
I don’t know enough about low voltage settings. I would like for the light to be useful at low output for a while in case that is ever needed. But, I don’t want to endanger my cells. So, it would be nice if it had Critical Shut-down set to the lowest safe voltage, and maybe the Low Warning at a few tenths of a volt higher. I don’t want a low voltage step down. Just a warning, then sleep will be fine.
Perfect. All the voltage settings and mode brightness levels are configurable in the setup menu anyway, so if you need to change something it’s just a matter of figuring the menu system out. It’s rather straightforward if you are comfortable with off presses and counting. I’ll provide instructions once your driver is ready.
Thanks Mike!
I was just looking at the first post again. I noticed that it says
and further down
but then in post 2 you say
Are both being actively developed? Or did you settle on one of those chips? Which one were planning on you making for me?
I kept the 841 post because the 1634 versions where based on it. I stopped using the 841 once I started with the 1634. The 841 based v6 series is obsolete and I’ve added that to the v6 series post.
Edit: Yours will actually be the 1634 based v9 series. The differences between v8 and v9 aren’t really worth writing about, a couple of minor changes.