Mod: 100W+ tint mixed NW light - Fandyfire 9 XM-L

Well... I hit Hank up for like qty 70 in 2 recent orders, then right after, he started going out-of-stock for some reason... Innocent

But glad to see it wasn't just me. He's out-of-stock but raised the prices ??

:open_mouth: You’re almost single handedly destroying my chances of modding my DST this year! My soldering iron and accessories just arrived and I have no components to stick into the DST! Ah well, gives me more time to prepare I guess.

woah, that’s pretty crazy! Why not put the dedomed LEDs in the outer ring though, where they can make the most of a full reflector shape?

The slight condensation you see is most likely just moisture in the thermal paste being evaporated. Could also be that the light isn’t hermetically sealed and you’re drawing in air when the head cools, which then produces a tiny amount of condensate. My guess is on the former as I’ve had it happen a bunch of times, although my cause is curing silicone sealant. An hour in a desiccant filled vacuum chamber should fix it (what, you don’t have one of those?!). Or put it in a bag of rice and then put that in a warm (60-100C) oven for a while.

Another hot rod from the home of RaceR86. Very nice indeed. You must be a person of much patience and steady hands. Looking forward to your night shots. :beer:

[quote=Werner] No xml2s? Have you thought about a no Pwm switch for high mode, different controller or so? I am wondering every time what would we get with that. [/quote]

I considered XM-L2s, but 1st gen emitters needs a home too. Im basically running 2. gen emitters in all my lights (+ copper mcpcb). I did not buy any new emitters for this mod. 9x XM-Ls would easily cost 50$ if I should buy the good stuff. Vf would have been higher, so peak amps would have been slightly lower. At the end of the day, there would have been no visual difference.

I don't mind paying a few extra bucks to get say 15-20% output in my typical light. But 50$ for maybe 10% more peak light? Not worth it... This light already crushes most premium lights when it comes output and beam..

I might see if I can find an AR lens. If anyone know of one, please let me know.

With this light, my goals were simply to make a stupid bright light, with good tint and good throw. If I was not happy with the tint I would have mixed in one or several XM-L2 6A1, but there was no need for it. :party:

Putting in an extra switch in the head and do proper direct drive was something I considered when I got the light. Mentioned it in some thread. But then I would much rather have XM-L2s in order to avoid seeing 5A+ to each emitter. Considering the heat and runtime I don't feel the same urge to go beyond 4A to each emitter anymore. I did consider to do some work on the head and put a little fan in there.. That would probably be more beneficial than proper direct drive. I like a good hand warmer though. Cant wait to use this a cold winter night. :bigsmile:

I blame Tom. Im certainly addicted to those Noctigons. But I only buy what I need for personal (ab)use..

Tom-E is dealing to others.. Blame him! :bigsmile:

Looks like this will be a blaster ! awaiting Beam shots :slight_smile:

I just liked the idea of 2+2+2 similar emitters around the edge. The de-domed 7C (which I first used) was going in the middle not matter what. Not sure how big the difference would have been....

Ill try something like that for getting rid of condensation. Thanks! :)


btw, you know all my talk about using 3/9 XM-L and do tint mixing instead of 1/3 MT-G2s...

Im starting to see the appeal of MT-G2s.. Its just less work.. :p lol...

RaceR86 wrote:

Tihi... giggles like a little schoolgirl..

I would be lying if I said I would have done anything different after building a light like this. This light sounds like the ultimate for things that go bump in the dark. Boom!, dark gone. Bad guys, if applicable, are dazed and confused by the apparent military grade lighting that just turned night into day. Not knowing what is behind the light, they run. Occasionally and to your amusement, running into obstacles due to temporary night blindness.

Soo, do you want to buy some? I might know somebody...

Ohhh - I ordered that kapton tape - darn, wish I saw or thought of that sooner. For some stupid reason I thought it was only available in thin rolls, arghhhh. That would be excellent I'm thinking for Shockers...

If there is no room for a proper insulation disk, I normally use kapton tape. Which I use quite often just as extra safety.

The tape is quite thin and somewhat "flimsy" so you might want to make sure that the solder joint is nice and flat, no sharp edges. Otherwise its easy to use.. :)

Thanks for sharing — that’s a great build. Looking forward to your camera’s sensors being overwhelmed by a wall of light.

Very cool mod especially with mixing all those different emitter types. Looking forward to beamshots!

Oh and 140 deg C test temperature!! Wow, that was brave. I’d be too worried about damaging the emitters if the body is that scorching hot :Sp

Most emitters are XM-L T6, there are more where they come from.. :p Someones gotta test the limits too. J)

For everyone who wanted beamshots.

BEAMSHOTS HERE, this light and several others..

I would like to ‘shamelessly copy’ this mod procedure on my X100. :bigsmile:

Would it be fine if I mix XM-L and XM-L2s in a single light? I’m planning of using 3x XM-L2 T6 3Bs, 3x dedomed XM-L T6 (orig X100 LED) and 1 XM-L T6 (orig X100 LED) for my 7X emitter mix. :~

Yes, you can mix XM-L`s and XM-L2s. Just make sure they are on copper if you plan on very high current to each emitter. The XM-Ls will run at slightly higher current compared to the XM-L2s.

This is an "old thread and old mod".. Before the days of the common FET drivers rise. :p

Check out Ouchyfoot`s mod on a similar light. Just with a "proper FET driver. No tint mixing though. Or check out the retard light thread. Ive got a much better tint in that light since I did not just use spare emitters like when I modded the light in this thread.

Id say tint mixing is a must do when you have that many emitters. At least a minor mix.. De-doming some emitters greatly improved the usability of the beam IMO as well. Although the 7 emitter X100 is probably not as floody as a 9 emitter light, but I take it you want more range as well. 3B is not the ideal "counter" tint for correcting de-domed emitters though. 3A or 3D would have been better. But unless you are that tint oriented, it will probably work out fine.. or better then nothing..

You can learn a bit more about some basics around tint mixing in this thread. Espesially the part about improving de-domed emitters.

If you end up using a zener modded FET driver. As an example you could go with 3 cells in series. Wire the emitters 3s2p (6 emitters). The last and 7th emitter could be wired in parallel with one of the other emitters, so two emitters would share the current.

... or maybe just try to mod the stock driver in the X100 first and see where that takes you...

Thank you RaceR86! :slight_smile:

I have enough SinkPads for this planned mod so there should be no problem. The NW LED that I currently have are several XM-L2 T6 3Bs and an XM-L2 T6 4C. Perhaps I might as well use the 4C together with 2 3Bs for a better outcome. I’ll do the readings first before I decide. Yes I want more throw too. My X100 currently gives me 49 KCD and dedoming three XM-Ls in it should increase the throw a bit more. I have some XM-L2 T6 1Bs which should increase the throw farther but I have reserved them for other mods.

At present, I’m still finding a way to open the head of my X100 (duh…). Until I finally do it, it will never be modded except for the spring braids. :frowning:

Strap wrenches often comes in handy when you bump into flashlights that are afraid to be modded. :D

That’s what I don’t have yet. I used bike gloves last night but I still tore a skin in front of my left thumb. I could be twisting on the wrong direction. :stuck_out_tongue:

I’ll try to improvise tonight…