Mod: 100W+ tint mixed NW light - Fandyfire 9 XM-L

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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My light was ordered from WB a few months ago...

If I understand correctly the driver is essentially direct drive with some PWM on high. Even stock, this is extremely bright, especially after resistance mods. Just need to have the right batteries, especially if you want to avid sag. Output sinks fairly soon.

I improved driver cooling (heatsinks+ fujick), not sure if it was necessary, but I felt like doing it. Added 18+22awg wires. I ended up only using 18 up to the emitters. Double copper braid on driver spring. I did the switch side too (not pictured)

16mm Noctigons was cut. (Stock size was 14mm). Used 22/24awg wires. Stock was slightly thinner, 26 awg?. Lapped the head a bit too, there was a tiny edge on it. Thermal paste was probably 60% Artic silver 5 and 40% fujick. I wanted the emitters to be properly attached when doing some current tests. Added kapton tape on the back of the reflector. I like to have some sort of "short-circuit protection".

3,3A at one of the emitters! J) I measured 9,4A going through the wires (3s3p). But there is probably some extra loss in the DMM wires and DMM at such high currents.

Emitter setup:

Center emitters: stock CW dedomed + stock CW dedomed + T6 3C dedomed

Edge: 2x stock CW, 2x stock CW dedomed + 2x T4 7C.

Sony 26650 (rated 50A) were used. They quite good at keeping the current high.

The front of the head can reach about 140C/280F in around 15 minutes, indoors no breeze or cooling. I changed batteries through the test (to another fully charged set) Used welding gloves when changing batteries. :p Just had to test that the driver and emitters was up for it... J) They were.. I have no issues running it constantly on high outdoors in cold weather..

I seem to have some issues with a bit moisture on the inside of the lens when using it outdoors, it appeaser in the middle of the lens. I don't think the head is properly waterproof, probably needs an extra O-ring. Or is this a common issue with extreme heat? I have heard about other lights having the issue.

Im very impressed by the tint and beam. I did not mix in any emitters with extra red/pink tone. Despite this and all the dedomed emitters, its just a lovely NW tint not overly yellow or greenish or anything bad, which I had a feeling it would be. For a flooder this light throws! :)

I think this light is enough in terms of heat and lumens for me. It serves as hand warmer and sun at the same time! Perfect! :)

Did I say I like the beam and tint? :) Ohhh, and its BRIGHT!

Beamshots to come some time in the future for those who are patient..

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Looks great. I really like the mix of emitters!

Thanks for sharing!

BTW: How was the tint of dedomed 3C by itself? Not too green? (I don't dedome any B/C tints because I'm too afraid of green beams..)

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nice build, I found a little time to muck about this afternoon too, but modding was limited to one of my ecig atomisers lol, its much improved now.

we need beamshots……I’m not feeling patient lol

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Woah! Am I understanding correctly? Approaching 30 amps total to the emitters!. That has to be quite a light show.

Wiring those emitters must have been a PITA.

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Thanks guys...

[quote=_the_]

BTW: How was the tint of dedomed 3C by itself? Not too green? (I don't dedome any B/C tints because I'm too afraid of green beams..)

[/quote]

It was a bit green yellowish..

I have dedomed XM-L2 T6 3A and even that got a slight funny looking hint of green/yellowish tint. I though it would be better than the 3C, but as far as I can remember, it wasn't. But then again, it was very similar to a 3B before deoming. If you are afraid of green beams after dedoming, stick to multi emitter lights. Easy to fix the problem. On the other side, I feel most emitters get a bit of that look no matter have far below BBL they are on the ansi chart before you dedome.

Which is why I was surprised the total tint of this light turned out so well.

I originally had a dedomed 7C in this light too, so warm there is no need to worry about greenish tint, but I tried to get too much wires through the head and managed to lift it up (wires dragged the emitter up, see picture below where the positive wire goes up, edge of Noctigon was over the wire hole) If you mix fujick and Artic silver 5, once it gets loose, it will not attach nicely to the head again, and bad things easily happens when doing amp readings.. Speaking of experience... 0:)

[quote=gords1001] we need beamshots......I'm not feeling patient lol [/quote]

Patience. I plan on taking beamshots with some other lights. Including my 10amp MT-G2 light. But I need some new springs for it and have been waiting for more than 45 days for that package... Once China post or whatever delivers, I will deliver. ;)

Tihi... giggles like a little schoolgirl.. 0:)

Not fun wiring all those, but with a colorful picture, and doing one color at a time, its not much of a headache.. I just wired green, yellow, blue than the others. Simple when you look at the overview in the upper right corner...

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Wow, just wow!! Lot of work there... Love the cut down Noctigons and the kapton tape coverage. Did you find a wide roll of that tape or is it all thin strips? Can't see any seams. Interested in how much throw you got out of it. So is this about 8A-9A per cell? Yikes!

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Beam shots certainly needed. :slight_smile:

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It looks like 3 strips.

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Definitely looking for beamshots compared to a single LED light, just so the difference is more than obvious.

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Thanks Tom.

Kapton tape. 3 strips. There are seams if you look closely, but it turned quite good.

How I made the Noctigons smaller.

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No xml2s?

Have you thought about a no Pwm switch for high mode, different controller or so?
I am wondering every time what would we get with that.

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So you’re the one who keeps buying all the Noctigons in stock. :smiley:

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Well... I hit Hank up for like qty 70 in 2 recent orders, then right after, he started going out-of-stock for some reason... Innocent

But glad to see it wasn't just me. He's out-of-stock but raised the prices ??

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:open_mouth: You’re almost single handedly destroying my chances of modding my DST this year! My soldering iron and accessories just arrived and I have no components to stick into the DST! Ah well, gives me more time to prepare I guess.

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woah, that’s pretty crazy! Why not put the dedomed LEDs in the outer ring though, where they can make the most of a full reflector shape?

The slight condensation you see is most likely just moisture in the thermal paste being evaporated. Could also be that the light isn’t hermetically sealed and you’re drawing in air when the head cools, which then produces a tiny amount of condensate. My guess is on the former as I’ve had it happen a bunch of times, although my cause is curing silicone sealant. An hour in a desiccant filled vacuum chamber should fix it (what, you don’t have one of those?!). Or put it in a bag of rice and then put that in a warm (60-100C) oven for a while.

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Another hot rod from the home of RaceR86. Very nice indeed. You must be a person of much patience and steady hands. Looking forward to your night shots. :beer:

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[quote=Werner] No xml2s? Have you thought about a no Pwm switch for high mode, different controller or so? I am wondering every time what would we get with that. [/quote]

I considered XM-L2s, but 1st gen emitters needs a home too. Im basically running 2. gen emitters in all my lights (+ copper mcpcb). I did not buy any new emitters for this mod. 9x XM-Ls would easily cost 50$ if I should buy the good stuff. Vf would have been higher, so peak amps would have been slightly lower. At the end of the day, there would have been no visual difference.

I don't mind paying a few extra bucks to get say 15-20% output in my typical light. But 50$ for maybe 10% more peak light? Not worth it... This light already crushes most premium lights when it comes output and beam..

I might see if I can find an AR lens. If anyone know of one, please let me know.

With this light, my goals were simply to make a stupid bright light, with good tint and good throw. If I was not happy with the tint I would have mixed in one or several XM-L2 6A1, but there was no need for it. :party:

Putting in an extra switch in the head and do proper direct drive was something I considered when I got the light. Mentioned it in some thread. But then I would much rather have XM-L2s in order to avoid seeing 5A+ to each emitter. Considering the heat and runtime I don't feel the same urge to go beyond 4A to each emitter anymore. I did consider to do some work on the head and put a little fan in there.. That would probably be more beneficial than proper direct drive. I like a good hand warmer though. Cant wait to use this a cold winter night. :bigsmile:

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I blame Tom. Im certainly addicted to those Noctigons. But I only buy what I need for personal (ab)use..

Tom-E is dealing to others.. Blame him! :bigsmile:

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Looks like this will be a blaster ! awaiting Beam shots :slight_smile:

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I just liked the idea of 2+2+2 similar emitters around the edge. The de-domed 7C (which I first used) was going in the middle not matter what. Not sure how big the difference would have been....

Ill try something like that for getting rid of condensation. Thanks! :)