This is how I modified the Prime. Member The Driver asked me about how I do it, but I didn't take pictures of my earlier processes so I explained to him the steps via PM. You can see his modification in TLF (or in BLF if he already posted here).
Yesterday I modified three more Primes for another interior colour testing lights (these are the 9th Prime modifications so far). This time the newer regular version without stainless steel bezel.
Perfect looks and form factor for any interior designer presentation tool
Heat evenly up 120C. More than this and the TIR will melt. I have no use for the original optics anyway, It casts one of the ugliest beam I've ever seen.
Thanks to DBCustom for the info about this baby Boa
Messy over applied thermal paste detected
Factory's best friend, BLF worst enemy - Red loctite
Critical tool! Invest your skill and time to forge a good quality puller like this. Start with a good base material such as true "hardened" screw driver or high quality tool steel. No water/oil quenching, only flame hardening at slow cooling rate followed by good tempering. File all the sharp edges to minimize damage to the bezel
Lightly punch the rivets down using straight 2,5mm steel rod with 30º tip to ease rivet removal. DON'T use drill, it will spin and destroy the MCPCB
Punched rivet (left) with raised edge, making removal so much easier without damaging the MCPCB
After prying all the lock edges, push the remaining down using blunt 2,5mm steel rod driver.
Too much thermal paste
This is a good technique from AT, unfortunately I couldn't rivet the MCPCB back unless I remove the potted driver first. After the mod, the MCPCB held down in place using common technique - pressed by the optic's base.
sm303, sm403, sm503 R9050 219Cs
These are not OEM TIR optics. I use generic faceted 15º MIC optics obtained from AE. But it looks like 20º to me. The beam produced is so much better and even than the OEM.