I picked up one of these from the same link. The first thought I got when I opened the package was to do a triple build. Looks great.
I am a true expert when it comes to missing things I have read, even multiple times.
Next mode memory is a nuisance.
Go for it! In the end, it was actually a pretty easy mod, with minimal tools.
Mainly
- A soldering iron for soldering the leads to the emitter (I used the original leads that came on the CNQ driver, because the way the leads solder onto the bottom/larger PCB, it’d be kind of hard to solder new leads).
- A drill/drill bit to drill the additional hole on the top of the pill.
- A small round file (diamond file worked well) to enlarge and reshape the holes.
As I mentioned, but didn’t get into much detail about, I made a small metal disk to fit into the recess where the original emitter star was. That was from a penny, filed down. I AA’ed that to the emitter recess, and then I drilled the original hole through and drilled the 2nd hole next to it, then did the filing.
As I also mentioned, I think that it’d be better to fill the driver side of the pill with Fujik glue to provide some additional support for the small driver PCB.
Also, another thing I forgot to mention was that I didn’t use the original S5 lens, just the Carclo, which pushes up against the O-ring. I figured that the original lens would just reduce output light, so why use it?
Hopefully, the rest should be understandable from my pics and earlier post, but feel free to ask questions.
Good luck,
Jim
Hi,
I forgot to answer your other question: Yes, the head gets quite warm/hot on high mode, so I think that even though I didn’t do much for thermal management, the original, rather simple design of the the pill vs. head is not bad for a $2.99 (now $3.99) host.
I mentioned earlier that relic found this and I’ve said it in his other thread, but thanks for this find!
I’m doing a triple XP-G2 in parallel driven by a Qlite. Just need to finish start building the pill…
How are you going to do the parallel wiring? Are you jumpering on the star/emitter PCB? Or are you planning to homerun the emitter wires to the driver?
If you’re planning to do the jumpers, keep the wires “low” because the Carclo lens sits very low above the emitter PCB (short legs).
Good luck, and make a mod thread when you’re done!
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I ran across a thread when I was researching for my build, that there were problems using the Carclo optics with XP-G2 triples (XP-G triples are apparently ok).
Illumination supply has 20mm parallel PCBs. They also don’t require trimming like the Indus star PCBs from ledsupply
https://illuminationsupply.com/led-mcpcbs-c-52_43/20mm-triple-xpg-mcpcb-parallel-p-250.html
Hi,
I knew that, but I’ve never reflowed, and wasn’t looking to do that for this build, but if someone was, then that might be a good choice, but you’d also have to get the XP-G from somewhere else… it looked like IS doesn’t carry the bare XP-G emitters…
https://illuminationsupply.com/bare-leds-c-52_36_88/cree-xpg2-bare-r5-3d-tint-5000k-p-292.html
Edit- I didn’t realize they were on backorder. But they do have the 6500k XP-G2s
I don’t remember where, but I’ve seen and posted some info that the XP-G2 on a triple don’t work well with the Carclo 10507, so at least for me, an XP-G2 triple wasn’t desireable. I think it was here:
Interesting. I thought the triple squares I’m getting with my triple XP-G2 minimag was some how my fault. I just figured I didn’t center the LEDs perfect when reflowing. I may consider triple XP-E2s instead. Thanks for that link!
It WAS your fault - you chose the XP-G2 instead of XP-G…
SORRY - JUST KIDDING :)!!
EDIT: BTW, as I said, I think that the IS triple PCB is a good choice for someone who can/wants to do the reflows - it opens up more driver possibilities, whereas with a series triple like the one I used, the CNQ driver was the only one that I found that would work, and I tried at least 3 other drivers, including 2 drivers from FT that they claim are boost drivers.
EDIT 2: Can you post a whitewall shot of your triple XP-G2? I’m curious what those “squires” look like.
I do not have a quality camera, just a galaxy s3 and it will not pick up the squares in the beam. Through the camera the beam looks perfect. Go figure.
Added a couple of additional pics of the pill in post #1.
I think I’m going to have to order a few more of these, so I can have singles and triples. I got bored while watching a movie tonight and ended up de-doming my s5. I love it now, the tint is perfect, so much warmer and it definitely throws further than before. Just need to get a different driver as this one bugs me.
/Threadjack lol
Actually, not so much thread jack :). Let me explain…
The original emitter PCB in the S5 is Fujiked, so before I started this build, I was trying to figure out how to get it out of the pill without damaging the pill.
Previously, with another light, I had noticed that when I dunked a pill with a Fujiked PCB into gasoline, and let it soak, it softened the Fujik, so for the S5, I removed the original driver and let the pill with the emitter/emitter PCB soak a couple of hours, figuring I’d kill 2 birds with one stone (dedome and soften the Fujik).
Sure enough, after a couple of hours in the gasoline, the dome was off of the original emitter, and I was able to pop the emitter PCB out of the pill easily.
That’s good news. I also didn’t want to mess up the PCB so I removed the emitter from the PCB, dunked it and de-domed it, then reflowed it back onto the board. Your way seems a lot easier.
Well, I’m pretty angry at myself. Lost my s5 tonight while dancing at a club. Guess someone else will get to enjoy my dedomed XP-G2 edc. Of course as soon as I have the light exactly how I wanted it I would lose it.
/rant.
If you do get another one, next time try using it with a SolarForce clip. Maybe that’ll make it harder to lose :)!
Belatedly, I was looking at LEDSupply’s triples (serial) and searched and found this thread.
Anyone using these 
or these? Cree XLamp XP-E2 Color LED with
that boost driver Tested CNQ Boost driver (Luxeon Triple in series)
and one cell? I’d thought that was impossible, now I’m tempted.
Or, I guess, pull the resistors and wire the triple as a parallel, but mmmmessy small wiring work.