Give us everything we want for a buck ninety-eight or else! 
Nice test!! Braver than I... Just got a 2nd L4 from BG today -- looks real good, as good as the first. Didn't check the switch in detail though, but body seems perfect, beam is pretty well focused, etc..
I usually chicken out with doing underwater tests without battery inside. 0:)
Some time back I played around a bit with the driver in the L4. Tried to push the resistor mod further, but it did not work. Not with the equivalent of 2 cells either (I played around with a power supply)
I think the conclusion was that there is no point in adding more than one R120, it would not go past 3,7A if lower values were used.
Has anyone tried to put a XP-G2 in this light?
Many people have put XP-G2 emitters in C8 reflectors. Me included. Domed and de-domed. I have not specifically used the reflector in the L4, but I don't see why it should not work well as long as you get it nicely centered and focused.
Some time back DBCstm made a thread documenting and comparing various emitters in a Convoy C8. That light had an orange peel reflector, but the thread should still be relevant for you if you don't know exactly what to expect from the L4 with and XP-G2 in comparison to an XM-L2.
In short, if you want more range and can compromise on lumen then go for it..
And if you depress the button a bunch of times while underwater?
Thank you for the link. That is a very nice comparison DBCstm did. I’m quite interested in the L4. A friend of mine has one and I like the build quality and interface with side switch.
I have a couple of lights and wouldn’t need another one (I think y’all know what I’m talking about), but what I don’t have is a light that really throws. I think my best throwing light does around 30-35klux@1m. So now I want a light that’s relatively small (definitely one cell only) and clearly outthrows my other lights. 100klux would be really nice.
Never modded a light before, but would want to get into it… For beginning I guess it would be much easier to just mod a cheap C8, but to me the L4 is so much nicer. My plan was to just swap the emitter board to a XP-G2 on Noctigon but I guess that brings me nowhere near 100klux. I’d like to avoid dedoming because I prefer cool white blueish tints for a thrower and I live in fear of greenish tints. Another option I thought of was to buy a Yezl Y3 instead and install XP-G2 on Noctigon. Do you think that would do it to reach towards 100klux? Also do you think I would be better of with a C8 as my first mod for learning purposes?
I have not tested, and even if I did test and there were no signs of water inside the light, I would not dare to guarantee it.. If you plan on having the light under water while doing mode changes then I would recommend a dive light just to be on the safe side.
Y3 with XM-L2 and direct drive driver could break 100kcd with an XM-L2.. Check out the Y3 thread.
Y3 and L4 both requires some extra work to get the full potential out of. Its not just a direct driver swap, you have to use the existing driver as a contact plate/switch holder. Its more involving compared to just a basic driver and emitter swap in a C8 light. On the Y3 also comes extra work with raising the emitter.. Again, check that thread for more mod info on it.
In general, if you are new to modding, its easier to start with the more basic stuff, but that is up to you and your skills.
Naw, just occasionally I’m out in a storm where it almost feels like I’m underwater 
You could pot the driver just to make it more moist/water proof. Stay away from the switch though, just make sure it can be replaced in case of shit. Most likely it will handle it, but its better to prepare for the worst..
So I modded this light in order to improve it’s throw as a rifle mounted light. I replaced the emitter star with a gasoline dedomed XM-L2 U3 1A on a 16mm noctigon. I didn’t have any 20mm ones but the 16mm worked ok. I sanded down the led centering ring to reduce its height, and I resistance modded the springs. Some things to note: the screws for the stock led star are screwed into untapped holes. The holes are about .087” which is just right for a 4-40 cut tap. I used 4-40 x 5/16 bhcs to replace the stock ones after tapping the holes but shorter 4-40x3/16” screws would be better. The led shelf is recessed almost more than the height of the noctigon, but it did work without having to use a shim under the screws. I’d skip the resistance mod on the springs if I were to do it over again.
The stock driver was misbehaving for me after the mod so I ended up replacing it with a Qlite flashed with STAR dual switch firmware. I quite like it.
Woot!! II made my very first MOD of my life today! Swapped the stock XM-L2 T6 4C with an XP-L HI V2 3C to improve throw and… It works!
I had to put a piece of duct tape over contact because reflector shorted (the centering ring is for XM”L package and was loose with the XP-L) but yeah it did NOT explode/melt/fail/insult on me!
I’m happy
Just wanted to share my enthusiasm. BLF brought me here.
Nice effort chenko. Its all downhi, woops I mean uphill from here on in. 
Aaaaand up
I just got a package from RMM today - 4 FET drivers and one Momentary Switch Driver in it.
I always hated, that this light has 2 switches. Honestly, I can’t stand it. I hate it.
Switch it on, then move it around to switch through the modes - I think that is a very silly solution.
So, I changed the driver with the STAR Momentary Switch driver.
That wasn’t that easy - the PCB has a lot of Earth connections everywhere - and if you connect the switch-wires to that, the driver will just flash shortly but will not work.
So, I had to grind off the paint to see the traces and then I had to cut those, so that I seperate the switch-contacts.
But now - it works.
I still don’t like this light though. The AR coated lens makes the light greenish and that “tactical” anti-roll thing is just annoying… meh.
Has anyone done these mods on the L4 (if even possible):
1) allow tailcap switch to change modes while retaining side switch mode changing capability (probably requires a driver change). This would allow for modes to be changed from either the tail or side switch for more flexibility.
2) change the side e-switch to a mechanical clicky (this would probably require a driver change and there may not be enough room for a mechanical click in the head). This would make question (1) above possible and give capability of turning light off from side switch.
thanks
1) Yes. It was a driver change for me. I designed a designated L4 driver with optional switch configurations, and one of the configurations works like that: Short press = mode up, long press = mode down, regardless of which switch you use.
2) I have done that on one light, but not the L4. I used a Judco 10A switch: Mod: My SupFire M6 "BMF" edition (new beamshots in OP).
nice work!
is the side clicky water-proof or water resistant? do you have a rubber boot over it?
No, it’s not water resistant at all. I’ve had it down in muddy environments like in old abandoned mines and it still works as good as new, but that’s maybe because no mud has found it’s way over to the switch. I wouldn’t use it in rain, that’s for sure.
Now that we have a few voltage boost XHP50/70 single cell drivers on the market, I would love to be able to build a XHP50 single cell L4 which can change modes from either the tail switch or the side switch (once the tail switch has been activated).
Also, if Convoy would make the side switch and convert it to a charger switch like the BD01 or BD02, so much the better.
Saw this magnetic charge port today on Ali. Thought it was pretty neat. The Convoy BD series are sealed and good quality too.
