Mod: HD2010 - 5,9A Qlite and XM-l2 U2 1D

nice work!!

Have you done a runtime test? I’m looking to do something similar, probably with aspherical.

Only used half a battery so far. Mostly when going for a walk. Ill go through a battery or two tomorrow when going for a walk. Were you interested in something special?

Feel free to share your mod when you get around too it! ;)

Thanks jmpaul320. :)

Very nice! Like that custom ampmeter too. Did you post that build somewhere that I missed?


I'm curious as well. My power supply arrived today from CircuitSpecialists, and I'd like to start amassing more equipment that I don't really know how to utilize ;)

I mentioned it in my previous mod thread, and in another thread showing some Christmas presents. There is no build thread on it.

9V battery inside, a switch, the ampmeter. Packed in some metal stuff he had. Ive only used it for my last two mods, and on the previous one I did notice the difference. But now when I did the tailcap readings I got slightly better numbers. Then again, my custom DMM wires are not super thick. It should come in extra handy when I get past 10A. J) And with general high current stuff where low resistance matters.

Just an approximate run time from full to needing to be changed would be great.

I’m not really sure what the “needing to be changed” voltage would be running a single cell at high draw, safe to rely on the qlite’s protection?

nice job, u got to quit showing off that meter box i want one :slight_smile:

Wow. That’s some wild HD2010. I’d love to try that, but I have big problems stacking more than two chips.

You will notice that the light have lost a ton of output when the battery starts to get close to 3V. And once its that low, you get lots of "extended runtime" due to the low output on high. The more I have tested low voltage limits, the less afraid I am om running my batteries low. Because output goes down a lot in a single cell light (atleast when you expect high to have 1000-1500++ lumen) And with a Qlite, you always have that safety, which always have worked when I have tested it.

Ive got no worries running unprotected cells in a setup like this. With the stock driver, that would be a different story. I just feel much safer having a cut off. Its is a great safety feature if your light for some reason should accidentally be turned on due to getting the switch pressed in. If there is a short circuit inside a light, you just fry a spring. So driver circuits can prevent undervoltage. Springs can prevent insane battery drain/short circuits. And if you use a good charger that will not overcharge, there is not much to worry about. Especially not if you monitor your cells.

When that is said. If not having a cut-off Im using protected cells in most lights. My previous mod features a custom "R86" version of the Drjones lumodrv. Its got low voltage cut off among other changes. (I have not tested yet though, partially because a Drjones drivers have a feature to extent runtime by a lot below 3V. Takes ages to drain a cell :p )

Anyway, just test it yourself and get acquainted with how the output drops.

There are some small voltmeters on ebay and various places that can be nice to bring "out in the field" in order to check battery voltage..

My unofficial trademark. Emitter amps picture and my fingers holding something.. :p

Thanks Ouchy, glad you like it.

Nice build! I may have been the first to use a P60 pill in a HD2010, not sure, but that's how I used to do them. Now I just rotary tool down the alum pill, also tweak out more inside, then press fit in a brass ring 17mm adapter - it's easier/simpler than the P60 pill to get the same height/depth. I add copper in the pill too, but of course now I got copper pills as well. I've done several variations of P60 pill usages - you can dremel down the P60 as well and actually make a simple brass ring out of it.

The SONY cell delivers the 5.9A? Pretty nice! I prefer the Powerizers now, but guess overseas shipping costs may be crazy.

I didn’t notice the Sony cell. I just got two in the mail…still wrapped. Glad to see someone else try them.

Whoa, is that a HD2010 current record? Must have really made that baby sing.

If I do another HD2010, I might just modify the pill like that. Sounds easier. But then again, everything is a bit harder the first time.. Thanks for sharing.

About the copper pills, I can see why people buy them for their HD2010, its easy plug and play. Could you share some measurements before after results in this thread?

Aluminium pill vs copper pill - share before and after results

I seem to remember that there were basically zero gain at 4,5A in a HD2010 where you compared aluminium vs copper pill, if I remember correctly. Please share in that thread. Many are interested in getting some numbers on this. And so far the results are vaguely various places.

Ive seen 6,4A at the tail in my lustefire triple (with my regular DMM). Just a peak bragging number though. The cells does not seem to perform below my 20R cells, just way better once used.

I originally bought the cells for 10A or higher use. Based on what I have seen documented, they seem to hold voltage better than any IMR I have seen at those high currents.

But if I place a small order from the states, shipping makes the batteries more expensive than they are. And if I place a bit larger order, then custom fee + taxes kills the deal. The sony cells seems to give just as good output, just less capacity. I would prefer Powereizers for a light like this though. Im on the lookout for good IMRs. More capacity than 2600mAh would be great. Maybe WB can get the keepower IMRs in stock that HKJ just tested. They are good in the 5A range, maybe similar to Powerizers?

Ive been using them for a "long time".

Pushing around 10A through them here. And here. Among some lights I have been using them in.

Where did you buy yours?

Oh it sings! :)

I had room for more 7135s, but 5,9A peak is "adequate". I could have breached the 6A limit for a super short time. :p But its not like I will see 5,5A+ at the emitter for much time anyway..

Taking the cell out of the charger and into the light probably helps achieving these " peak bragging numbers" easier. I cant remember anyone documenting such high numbers. Im much more into regulated lights, like my ZY-T08 that does 6,4A "all day" with great battery capacity. But HD2010 is a more compact and comfortable light to hold. Great form factor and its more idiot proof with a Qlite and single cell.

I got my Sony 26650 here.
I know the capacity is low, but I have so many cells now that I’m just picking up various high drain and IMR cells now to play with.

Ok, Ive bought mine from WB in the past. I just wonder about their order count (because I have ordered 6 in total, and total orders say 6). Maybe its a new feature that has not included all sales from the beginning or something.

Ive seen these cheap in larger batches other places, but not sure if those sources are as good...

I got several MNKE IMR 26650, which is the cell in the KP's I believe, and they are way behind what a SONY or Powerizer can do. Maybe the KP's are using a new generation, dunno, but the HKJ internal resistance # is the key spec, and I don't see it competing.

For the copper/alum pill comparison - that's tough head to head. My alum HD 2010 pill mods always have copper added, 2-3 18 gauge discs or equivalent. Not sure if I can ever get true comparison results - takes a lot of time, and one of the main purposes of going with a copper pill is to save time.

The mentioned and latest KP IMR HKJ tested are not much behind the Sony in terms peak performance, its pretty close to it, and better at the end (5A) Must be something better in this new KP cell than the MNKE IMR 26650 based on how you describe the performance of that cell.

If you want to save time, why bother with copper inserts that heats up in close to no time? Have you measured any performance gain with those since you use the time and money to do it?

Before and after results..

For the copper inserts, started doing it pretty much because everyone else of note here does (I stand on the shoulders of giants, like so many others). Yes - could question it. Even the master of copper, OL, has questioned it himself - I followed that thread. I believe it helps and so I keep doing it - done dozens of mods this way, but I'm not 100% in my conviction on it for sure, just like OL. Could be the old "making the sink bigger" so it spills later, but even for that there is an advantage. I do believe in core copper and outer aluminum - I believe that is well proven in the CPU heat sinking world, but where the boundary is, how many joints and transitions there are in the heat flow -- it's all important.

I wish I had more time, more money to do more experimenting and scientific testing methods, but I do have a crazy job, being self-employed and paid by the hour (when I take time off, I don't get paid), and the main money maker for the home (wife works part-time, still got a daughter in college).

I love the idea though of your suggestions and totally agree it should be done...