nice side switch mod indeed
What do I say but orsm effort. I dont really agree with that last flux capacitor though. It may hold it back a little.
Nice! I like your Retarded lights. These interest me. :bigsmile:
Great job! Just out of curiosity, how is that head constructed? On some of the Nx XM-L lights, they screw in an emitter shelf into the finned body of the head (ex. that 9x XM-L light). Working with CerealKiller, we were able to successfully unscrew the emitter shelf (with lots of heat of course) and we replaced the entire emitter shelf with a press-fit piece of copper—more than doubling the weight of the head of the light. It will definitely help with heat transfer.
Like I was saying, I don’t know how this particular light was constructed—though if it has the same style head construction, that could allow for significantly longer run-times.
I was just thinkin… what if you put a small 1uf cap with one side to the drain on the bottom fet and the other to the gate on the top fet (disconnect the gate from the bottom one)- run both the top fet gate and the other end of the cap to vcc pin on the tiny13a… I’m sure it’s been done, but just thinkin
Nice mod but you are stupid for putting at least two different cells in there. I spot what looks like 2 trustfire cells and maybe a Panny or LG cell in one of the photos………so dumb, not a good idea t all
I have use 2s imr (the same imr samsumg 20R) in parallel with 2s2p no imr bateries (all the 4 no imr batteries are the same model with same capacity )
in series are necessary to use the same batteries allways
but mix batteries in parallel are safe
ty I have placed the side switch like in this other driver (in the same place)
playing around i managed to melt one spring (shorting bat+ to battery tube)
so i can only use 2S2P 
i took it away and used it for wire braiding …
(yes - there is a solder blob under the left wire 
)
i also used this driver (seems to work also with 8V) from a 4LED - 4P light
but i replaced the FET with 2 pcs 06N03LA from a PC mainboard, used 2 R100 piggyback on the sense resistors and wired 22 AWG into the head
in the head nothing is changed…
now i am getting around 10 A from my old Sonys over the switch - how is that comparable?
> measuring direct on LED - gives 11,5 A
shorting the sense resistors disables the Modes
can I guesstimate 10A / 6 rows of LEDs for 1.5 - 1.66 A per emitter?
(XM-L2 U2 they say)
how many Lumen would that be?
@moviles2
did you touch the wiring in the head?
emitters are stock in yours?
I dont have touch the wiring in the head, it come with 2s 6p configuration (the perfect configuration for pwm driver with 2s 3p batteries)
yes, emitters are stock in my flashlight 
why you dont have fix resistance of the spring like in this thread?
with something like this ?
it always ends in a solid piece
Anyone know where you can get replacement/alternative bezels for this light?
I just noticed my is cracked in several places above the threads. Very thin in this spot. The bezel is thin in general, actually.
XP-L HI or Nichia 219C would be nice in this. A poor mans meteor that is just a little retarded.
Insane build! Your gonna have to wear sunglasses at night when you use this.
Thanks for the 80s earworm. J)
+ 1 WIN
Well, the light itself is $68 if you get the fake XP-E version from Fasttech, XP-L HI V2s are $6.89 each, figure a driver is $14.
That’s $68+(6.89x12)+14=$165 rounded up, or $45 cheaper than what the Noctigon M43 with XP-L HIs sold for, I think.
Advantage would be more mass for more runtime on high/turbo, and you could use lower amp batteries since it’s a 2S3P arrangement.
