Oh, I appreciate the advice, but I’m already doing that.
I have several varieties of 3000K Cree LEDs (XP-E, XP-E HEW, XT-E, XM-L, XM-L2, XP-L) of varying sizes (14mm, 16mm, 20mm) and a few 3500K XM-L2, several 1-mode generic drivers of varying current, several Nanjg drivers which I haven’t tried yet, several Ultrafire P60 style hosts, several P60 pills, 2 Solarforce hosts, and Fujik thermal paste, and that’s all from fasttech. And from mtnelectronics, I just got some forward clicky switches and some 15mm drivers of varying currents to stick into my SK68 clones.
So far, I’ve built 3 P60 style flashlights from some UltraFire hosts (black WF-501B, purple WF-501B, black WF-502B). I’ve also modded several existing flashlights by swapping the LED: Eagle Eye X2R to 3000K XP-L, another Eagle Eye X2R to 3000K XM-L2, Convoy C8 to 3500K XM-L2, Eagle Eye X6 to 3500K XM-L2, Tank 007 to 3500K XM-L2, 2 cheapo Meco zoomies to XT-E 3000K, and 2 more cheapo Meco zoomies to XM-L2 3500K. And on my list of flashlights to mod: A couple of Crelants, Lumintop SD10, Sunwayman C22C, Sunwayman R20A, some Romisen zoomies, and all 6 of my SK68 clones.
If you haven’t figured it out yet, I’m nuts about 3000K. 
The story behind these “XR-E” LEDs is that I wanted one to change my Cofly KX-398 zoomie, which had a cool white 20mm XR-E. I had hoped that these generic XR-Es would be close enough in terms of brightness. But the actual problem was that they were 18mm, not 20mm. The Cofly doesn’t have a pill where you put the star on top. It has a ring indent around the tube which the outer edge of the 20mm emitter star sits on, just like an SK68. So the 18mm star is too narrow to stay in place
With a 10-pack, I knew I’d have a bunch of these leftover, so I wanted to stick them into some cheapo hosts just for fun. Now Texas_Ace has given me the idea of building a lamp or something that’s not a flashlight, which is something I’ve never done before, but hey, it’s something new to learn!