These are sense resistors, R220= 0.22ohm. There are two pieces paralel on the board, that means: the resultant resistance is 0.11ohm.
I dont have this light, the info came from a hungarian forum.
The additional resistor should be somewhere between 0.2-0.5ohm. This is my opinion.
And this guy from Magyarszag has good MM? 
Can you forward some info/data from him here?
If you can not measure the tailcap current accurately, try the 0.48ohm.
The DMM that I used is a Sears Craftsman, the one shown in the picture, maybe not the very best but so far its been accurate for what I use it for, I think you have to account for small variations in the Fv of the led and the individual components that make up the driver board, the resistor value that worked for the current I obtained may be different from what you need to use in yours, IMO its very hard to try to determine current without a DMM as Ecig wants to do.
Ecig, I would solder 2 wires to each side of the resistor so you can quickly change the resistors you want to try without damaging the board, then just try each one of the resistors you have while measuring the current, I would start with the 0.47 ohm and measure current, if not the desired current, just remove and solder a lower one for more current or the higher one for less current, and keep measuring until you get the desired current you are looking for.
I got this and to me it’s basically 2/3 of an STL V2/V6 for half the price, so a good buy.
1A draw on mine and modes are 100-50-10-seisure-slowSeisure.
The electronic switch which was the reason I bought this didn’t actually turn out to be that big of a deal. It always starts on high and the med isn’t all that useful since the high isn’t an overdriven turbo like on the STL’s. I imagine just leaving it on high and not using the elec switch all that much. Because it always starts high I prolly won’t mod it for high output unless reprogram the driver since having to click out of turbo every time I turn it on would be annoying.
Quality is fine and not that bad for Smallsun. Finish isn’t all that, but functional and nothing offensive. Obviously nothing like real sunwayman’s but no big deal at fraction of the price.
Tint was fairly cool, “1” tint at best but at least better than the “0” tints on most budget lights. Be sure to tighten everything down as the retaining ring for the driver was loose on mine.
Can’t seem to take bezel off but at least the emitter was reasonably well centered.
I managed to mess it up. It turned out I was to optimistic regarding my soldering skills.
When I soldered the resistor and assembled all back, it shined for a second and than nothing.
Than I desoldered the resistor, and nothing again. I dont know what went wrong but these resistors are to tiny for me to solder on them (on the pics they seemed bigger), I lack skill and adequate equipment :o
I also had problems with spring (+) touching the retaining ring (-)
Just a note on batteries. It seems this light will suck cell drys without much of any warning, so protected cells are preferable.
Yeah, you mean undervltage protection probably, so that would not be trustfire flames, because they only seldom have(working) undervoltage protection….
Is this some kind of regulated driver?
Constant current regulated. Genuine Flamefires do have undervoltage protection.
And whats the difference in comparison too, say, SkyRay STL-V2 driver regarding this matter
I think that one also doesnt have unbdervoltage protection or nothing, and its also constant current regulated.
If I dont succed in repairing the driver I broke Ill try to ask someone from manafont for spare driver.
The stl’s do have undervoltage protection.
Well I liked mine so much for the price I just got done ordering another one. You can’t beat this light for the price. The best budget light going for the money in my opinion.
Op hows this flashlight going? Any issues after you modded it?
awesome mod. does it throw as far as a stl v2/v6 now?
You’re using it as a variable resistor, so connect the center lead to either of the other leads and just use those two connections. I’m a little weary of using a trimpot for this application though. What kind of trimpot, what power rating/current, etc… Trimpots aren’t generally made to handle much current.
Has anyone simply swapped out the driver for proper output? The side switch is nice
but i’ll throw it overboard to save the LED
OK, great instructions!
I received the light today and IMO it is a very good light for the price paid.
I ordered some 0.68Ohm resistors, I hope they are “close enough”. 2 or 3W, they were one or the other…
One question though:
Which way should I solder it, blue or red?
