Modding a Judco 10A switch to fit Z41/Clone tailcaps

This is an attempt to recreate Tana’s Judco switch mod, his original thread can be found on some other flashlight forum. Tana’s thread was not intended to be a step by step guide but gave a good idea as to how to construct it. In this thread I’m going to track my progress and hopefully document some mistakes so you guys won’t have to make them.

The supplies:

- A couple Judco switches: Electronic Components and Parts Search | DigiKey Electronics

- A threaded Mcclicky adapter ring

- Mcclicky switch boot

  • Washer

The 10A Judco switch:

Cut the switch so there is is even with the opposite side of the button:

Be extremely careful not to cut into the contacts coming out of the switch body. I made cuts on all 4 sides, then had to carefully pull the scrap plastic away with pliers.

After clean up with a file:

You can see in this picture that I had to file the 4 corners of the switch body so it would fit in the threaded adapter (Mcclicky adapter). One of the contacts is also folded over, this is for the spring that will contact the negative terminal of the battery. Be very very careful when bending the contacts, you only have one shot when bending them. If you attempt to unbend and re-bend them the contact will snap right off, ask me how I know

I also filed off the lip around the top of the button so I can fit a spacer.

I used a washer I had lying around, it fits the inner diameter of the Mcclicky adapter perfectly and is very snug around the switch. Without this washer the button of the switch protrudes too far out of the top of the tailcap.

It fits the adapter nice and snug, now we have to trim the other contact:


I did not get a picture of the contact soldered to the side of the adapter but you get the idea…

Now fill with your favorite epoxy and wait for till I get some copper sheet and springs

I’ll update this thread when the rest of my parts come in, I’m really excited to finish it up!

Nice! Hadn’t heard of Tana’s switchmod, so I’ve not seen this before… or thought about myself. I use the 10A Judco switches in a few lights, now I might be using them in some more. Thanks for sharing.

From me as well, thanks for showing us.

Thanks for showing this way to make a really tough switch. The only 'non-BLF' aspect of this method sounds to me the need of the McClicky adapter ring. Are they cheap and easily available? Or is there a way to work around it?

Nice :slight_smile: we can’t ever have to many good switch options, when we mod our lights.

I wonder if this one have even lower resistance than the 6A Ebay switch.

Is there anywhere else we can buy them? Digikey is crazy expensive in shipping to Sweden unfortunately.

Maybe we can get MTN to stock them.

Oveready has the adapter available separate from the switch kit but it costs $14. Illumination Supply carries the “EDC” brand kit that includes everything for $10, A few other retailers carry them as well. I don’t think it would be necessary but it certainly simplifies it.

Cheap Mcclicky kit

I would be surprised if it is not lower resistance, these switches have all copper internals.

Old Lumens Switch Mod

Cool :slight_smile: copper contact plates, yes that is sound like it should be much lower than what we get on the usual omten’s or the less usual 6A Ebay one.

But all i know about resistance in switches, i have learnt from you djozz :wink: i hope you will test these also for resistance, they sound like a winner :slight_smile:

And now i see that familiar copper colour in your pictures, i didn’t notice that before.

mk2rocco, your link doesn’t work

If you remove the quote part from your link & place the Old-Lumens Judco switch mod in the ” ” & the link right after the : it should work :slight_smile:

Like this
Old-Lumens Judco switch mod

Has anyone tried Simon's new 10A switch?

Simon’s new 10A switch looks exactly the same as the one we call the 6A Ebay switch

But for a better price :slight_smile: Good to know

I already have 4 of those switches on order, Ill make a how to thread on them as well. I think they are going to be a lot easier to work with and they are a forward clicky :smiley:

Good thread. Time to order some switches.

It has proven difficult to locate those Tofty switches.

They have been very hard to locate which is exactly the reason I had to make my own. These diy switches offer some advantages to Toftys switches. You get to retain the lockout function which is great for Hi-Current lights and you get to keep a spring on both ends which is a little safer because you can’t crush cells.

Nice :slight_smile:

And because you sound like you need these kind of low resistance high current capable switches :wink:
Please compare the Judco & the other 10A/6A switch when you get it and tell us about it.
If you can a DD amp measurement comparison of the two would be very interesting for example.

Because i will probably not be able to get the Judco switch, if they do not show up from some seller with sane shipping prices.

And i am curious what your building for fun mods, that needs these beefed up switches, can you drop some hints, or maybe a build thread :wink:

Ok if I post a link to this in my switch mods thread? Probably be a good idea to pretin the threaded ring before soldering the tab so there’s less risk of overheating the plastic housing.

Dumb question for all of you, but how do you know which of the TABS to solder to the ground (-) and which one to solder to the positive (+)?

My guess is it doesn’t matter?

Thank you,

A switch is simply a connector of the two leads, there's no direction.

I absolutely should have, I’ll add this the the guide so nobody forgets. Thanks!

Yup, dumb question. You’re welcome. :wink:

Switch doesn’t care which way the current flows.

Nice mod. Thank you for sharing. This is going to be one popular mod.