Buy a cheapie HOST. plus LED/Driver.
get on UTube and watch some of the demo’s on there.
THEN.
Like me. do it a coupla times on that one. just to get “the touch” with the iron.
USE LIQUID flux and a small syringe to apply
Everything else. Basically. is fairly easy.
I’M still trying to get “the touch” shhhhhh.
Have fun. It’s addictive.
PS. I went the Host way. Cause I thought, IF I strip one I have. then rebuild it. and it don’t work.
WAS it in the stripping stages that stuffed it. or the reassembly.
Dont short out the driver while assembling the unit.
Spring bypasses lower resistance. A good lumen sphere and lux meter is helpful when trying to find the efficiency of your mods. Many mods have been done already. Seems like you will always have to sacrifice something when it comes to modding runtime, output are the two main ones that come to mind
Liquid rosin flux on any joint you are reworking/soldering twice
Use a multimeter to check for shorts after soldering any subassemblies (driver, wires & springs to driver, leads to MCPCB, and after assembly but before inserting a battery. The negative and positive output of a driver should always have resistance between them. The same goes for the negative and positive inputs to a driver.
I agree with boaz, mod for tint and color, I’d add that replacing or reflashing drivers can be worthwhile, too, for the UI improvements.
Some good tips here, thank you. I got this a starter kit. Not expecting a lot out of the iron but will help to get my hand eye coordination in then get a better one locally
What you need to know is “It can get Expensive”. Modding is a lot of fun and allows you to have a light just the way you want it or as bright as reasonable possible.
.
The downside is you’ll end up spending as much or more in tools and leds, MCPCB, drivers, pills, wire, lenses, reflectors and host than you would if you had just bought several factory lights. But hey, what fun is that.
Happy modding!