Liquid rosin flux on any joint you are reworking/soldering twice
Use a multimeter to check for shorts after soldering any subassemblies (driver, wires & springs to driver, leads to MCPCB, and after assembly but before inserting a battery. The negative and positive output of a driver should always have resistance between them. The same goes for the negative and positive inputs to a driver.
I agree with boaz, mod for tint and color, I’d add that replacing or reflashing drivers can be worthwhile, too, for the UI improvements.
Some good tips here, thank you. I got this a starter kit. Not expecting a lot out of the iron but will help to get my hand eye coordination in then get a better one locally
What you need to know is “It can get Expensive”. Modding is a lot of fun and allows you to have a light just the way you want it or as bright as reasonable possible.
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The downside is you’ll end up spending as much or more in tools and leds, MCPCB, drivers, pills, wire, lenses, reflectors and host than you would if you had just bought several factory lights. But hey, what fun is that.
Happy modding!
No. The MCPCB has to fit both the host and the emitter. I have no idea what emitter those boards are intended for, but it isn’t anything commonly used in flashlights these days. The common emitter sizes are 5050 (5x5mm) with a center thermal pad, like the Cree XM-L/2 & XPH50, and the Luminus SST-40; or 3535 (3.5x3.5mm) with a center thermal pad, like the Cree XP-L, XP-G, Luminus SST-20, Nichia 219C & 319A ,and LH351 b, c & d.
Can you explain what you mean?
How are you going to mess about with them? There is no open-source firmware for them, so you won’t be able to do much. You can’t run biscotti bistro-HD’s biscotti-HD variant, babka, and various older firmwares.
As to messing about well thats easy really I want to get in to actualy modding and making firmwares so you mentioned “biscotti bistro-HD’s biscotti-HD variant, babka,” firmwares which would be a starting point to mod/flash.