The next real update will have a change in the thread title along with a link to that post # but it probably won’t be long enough to finish a whole batch of popcorn. You’ll have to cue up some OL and MRsDNF as well.
I’m in the Queue. Whos that tall person in front of me. Sit down for crying out loud. Dale SIT DOWN. 
Sorry bud, getting small now.
Shhh!
The shows about to start!
I forgot my 3D glasses!
I only have one of these at the moment and am feeling a bit anxious about this stage but here goes nuttin.
I wanted the noctogon(henceforth “red”) to be stable in the drill press and not wobble or spin so I tapped the center hole for an 8-32 screw. Also tapped was some soldered brass tubing that’s a press fit into a nylon bushing.
Tape between the bushing and red keeps the brass insert away from reds’ pretty face and there was no slippage when spun in the drill press. A block of wood to back up some 180 w/d kept the edge nice and square.
All that was straight forward albeit time consuming (couldn’t find a friggin 8-32 screw) and about an hour to sand it down to the peg holes. Then I pretinned red’s backside.
And fastened it to the pill with a small brass screw. This provided clamping pressure and also kept red from wandering off the pill( a problem mentioned by Scaru some months ago with his 3x XML boards). After heating on the stovetop (over a tin can lid and a low flame) it came out fine.
The head of the screw is ground down so I can leave it in place when I reflow the jumpers and LEDs. Also red’s edge is slightly beveled to prevent the - trace from contacting the heat sink and bypassing the driver. When the LEDs are in place I can pot the driver. It would really suck to mess up now.
Reds starting to look real good trimmed down. I wonder if that would work for me?
Do they make them with a lot longer belts? This may well be may be worth a try if they do. Thanks.
You can get as long a sanding belt as you need, I suggest the finer grits for this kind of work though, as the low grits could get messy!
Why didn’t you reflow the jumpers and led’s while reflowing the Noctigon to the pill? And by the way, with the star being the same size as the pill surface tension on the liquified solder would center it much like solder paste does with an emitter in it’s footprint.
When I soldered one very similar to yours, it would slip and jiggle if you bumped and moved the assembly, but go right back to center like a magnetic had it pinned. Cool to watch. lol
I’m using 60/40 between red and the pill and will solder paste the LEDs. I was trying to KISS and only briefly considered adding the LEDs as well. Also, hadn’t yet trimmed the screw head and neaded to look up specs on Nichia ± pads. Anxiety, trepidation, and timidity are the real reasons though. I’m too old go boldly anywhere anymore. I’ve seen the self centering effect myself and it’s cool but wasn’t going to count on it. I could also say it was late and I was tired but sometimes it’s easier to plead ineptitude.
Whoohoo! Yippee! Hooray!
It works. Was I confident? Of course! I have to go to a Christmas party soon but from here out its just nuts and bolts. Still much to do but not so fiddly effing tiny.
You know the golden rule. Pictures or it did not happen. 
Enjoy the party.
If Santa comes through I’ll be posting next years pics from the canon instead of the iPhone.
Your close ups are pretty good for a phone. Which version of the iPhone do you have?
Because I use my iPhone 5, and if you have anything other than a 5S than I need to step it up. 
Isn't the prototype in your avatar? 
or is that a different light?
Looks like each LED will get around 0.733 amps. If they put out around 350 lm each, that will be pretty bright. Better put these on... 
My Avatar is the Texas Poker, a custom made from scratch out of a 1” Surgical Grade Ti bar made by Photon Fanatic. It’s about the same size as the BBC 261L though. Also runs on an Efest IMR10440. I wear it on a Ti curb chain around my neck with a Ti gate hook for quick release.
The BBC 261L is a chopped AAA MiniMag by Scott, with the first version of his copper fins that I wanted to match the TP. Scott worked his butt off on my little Baby Butt Crack light (BBC) and had to physically de-populate and reconstruct a 105c board after downsizing it to fit the 10mm light. He ended up with it doing 1.1A and making 261 Lumens as measured by Texas Pyro. My new lightbox shows it making over 300 lumens at 30 sec. It’s Pewter, with the copper fins, and copper rings at the ends of the knurling on the body that will hold a pocket clip from sliding or give some purchase in the fingers. The tail is also minimized and has a copper disc on the end matching the copper fins and accents. Very very nice little light! Very very useable little light! 3 modes, memory, just like any larger light, Scott’s a genius.
No your not a flashaholic. nah
Maybe the matching Titanium battery holder with copper top and matching conical end for the gate clip to hold a spare battery and riding on my keychain qualify me. Or maybe it’s the Delrin battery locker holding yet another Efest IMR10440 in my pocket (sometimes 2 of these). Or the Ti MBI HF on my keychain, that I’ve hand made a custom Ti reflector for. Or it could be the Cu HF also on my keychain running a Nichia 219. The Ti battery holder is made to serve a dual purpose, it’s tube and the cell inside can also fit either MBI HF on my keychain.
Perhaps I am.
But I can quit anytime I want to….
iPhone 4 and added light adds to image clarity but sometimes nothing works. This Is the progenitor of the light I’m making for you. Photos (not pics) courtesy of DBCstm.