~MT-G2~ Pocket Monster (hard way moding SK98) now VIDEO preview

Hi everyone!
This is my second SK98 clone and I decided try mt-g2 emitter since i read so much good stuff at this lovely place .

I’ve had different choices of sk98 hosts at Fasttech to choose between. I’ve decided to go for one with glass lens and hollow pill . The lens were plastic and prescratched but because I was aware of playing Chinese lottery I’ve ordered 23mm lens “just in case”. Pill was hollow which I wanted (maaaan, I just love these hollow pills :bigsmile:). Host itself was utterly dreadful. Zooming mechanism was extremely hard to operate followed by “beautiful” grinding and squeaking sounds. Body itself had few dings and one relatively large dent in battery tube. I didn’t mind all that quality issues because it will be modded anyways.

So, lets start with actual mod.
First of all I was aware of the fact that fairly driven mt-g2 produces tremendous amount of heat and to deal with all that heat there must be substantial changes to heat sinking. That is why I prefer hollow pills (they are more mod friendly, at least to me since I don’t have any sort of power tools ).


I’ve used the same copper sheet that I’ve used in my first sk98 clone mod which I made from copper pipe. I’ve cut down two small sheets with a saw.

After sawing, from those two sheets I’ve made three “octagon” discs by cutting corners of sheets with cutting pliers.

I forgot to take pictures of sanded “octagons” and process of soldering them together. I’ve soldered them on my mothers baking pan :zipper_mouth_face:. Between soldering and final product there was many hours (mainly because I don’t have caliper) of filing and sanding with various sanding-papers for snug/tight fit.

The second part of modifying of the pill was making second disc for inner side of the pill. Procedure was the same as first part but with even more hours of filing and sanding since it has larger diameter and thus more precision is needed for snug/tight fit.

Left on the photo you can see one of two indentations that I’ve made with round file for broaching leads. Thermal grease added on (I would say a bit to much of it but since I’ve made first copper “disc” about 1/2mm thicker, grease can go to empty place between two discs and replace some of the air ).


There are the components that are waiting for being assembled. KD MT-G2, Nanjg 105c silicone 22AWG, 17mm to 20mm driver adapters recommended by Werner and two resistors (bigger one is 150Ω from decade old phone charger and second one is 200Ω new from eBay). I’ve also ordered 10pcs zener from eBay but they never arrived, so I’ve made a phone call to local RTV servis and ask them for zener rated from 3V-5V 1/2 - 1W, luckily they have them (4.3V 1W). On the photo there were three AMC 7135 350mA chips, but I’ve decided to go with four since it is rounder number (MOAR LUMENZ :bigsmile: )

I’ve forgot to take detailed photos of the pill (emitter and driver) assembling. Added AMC chips, solder blob between 3rd star and GND for L/M/H, 200Ω resistor replaces polarity protection diode and zener goes between capacitor and ground, added thermal paste under star and soldered leads to star . I’ve also replaced driver spring with DIY copper “spring” from solid copper wire. I’ve made it by wrapping the wire over screwdriver and sanding it to flat it. Sadly, I had no place for driver adapters because of battery and driver length issues (caused by adding copper disc) so I’ve made one on the same principle as i made one in my first sk98 clone mod but shorter.

MT-G2 goodness.

Since lens were plastic, and the lens bezel had indentations for press fit plastic lens I had to file down those indentations.
I’ve done it with el. motor with filed down one side of shaft. El. motor was from old cassette player connectet to 12V power supply from some old charger.
The dome is actually touching the lens a little which I kinda like. Everything in this flashlight is very very tight.

In this photo you can see the the tailcap. In the brass insert I’ve added copper shot and solder, filed down almost to the beginning of the plastic housing of the switch. Switch itself is disassembled and internals are replaced with ones from Omten switch. Contact sheets are teared down to fit dimensions of the stock switch housing (again I forgot to take photos :~ ). Result is Omten performance in tiny package. Tailcap current is measured through the switch and without switch in the circuit. My DMM with short thick copper lead shows no difference with driver in the curcuit. Even on direct drive I’ve measured difference of 50mA which is nothing. I am quite happy with battery performance for the price.On Direct driver I’ve read 5.58A . I chose them thanks to HKJ-s tests and charts.


Since I’ve read that anodising changes color when it’s exposed to heat I wanted to try something different with this host. Heating is done on kitchen gas stove. I’ve heated all four parts separately (body, bezel, “focusing” part and tailcap). On the body only the fins were exposed to flame to get color transition since fins have more mas thus more heat will be absorbed in that area. When iI liked the transition I’ve cooled it down by blowing in it. Bezel is exposed to heat until I’ve liked the color as well as “focusing” part. Tailcap was exposed less than bezel and “zooming” par because of orange transition. Finally some sanding and polishing the fins, “focusing” part and the bezel for BLING looks 8)


Thanks for reading.
I hope you’ll like it :slight_smile:

EDIT: pictures reuploaded

. Wow. Excuse the terminology but that light is stuffed full of goodness.

Great story!
Respect for the means you use.
Where can I see it?

Pictures broken?
(Chome and ie)

What do you mean with “means” ?

Pictures work fine on my browser (chrome).

Pictures work if you right click and open in new tab, but not on the actual BLF post.

I don’t know what is cause of that. I’ve tried to open the topic in internet explorer and thy also work fine.

it works this way


sredstva :wink:
(google translate)

Not here, no hint of them…
(Firefox with add block and pop-up blockers and what not, but only in this thread do I not see the pictures (I think… (?)))


When I look at this thread in Chrome I see big white squares for all the pictures. I can view them by right-clicking and opening in a new tab.
When I look in Firefox there are no pictures and no squares to click on. This with No-Script checked to allow all scripts from the thread.

Nice flashlight mod. Seeing that MTG2 under that aspheric is kinda funny…. “Why is there a banana inside your flashlight?” :stuck_out_tongue:

can not see the photos. i tried all three browsers. ( Firefox, Chrome, and IE.) every one elses photo posts & topics here on BLFwork fine, there must be somthing wrong with the photo site yor using or the hyperlinks in your OP.

What an impressive mod !

Thanks for sharing , PH_Oton .

Very impressive build and nice write up. You have a knack for this. 2 builds so far and both are impressive. Congratulations PH_Oton.

Good job fixing the pictures. Can see them with no problem in Firefox now.

Wow! That SK98 with the MT-G2 throws a wall of light doesn’t it! How does it look zoomed?

Very awesome build…how well does it handle the heat from that big ol’ emitter?

I really like how you make the copper slug to fill the hollow portion of the pill

If you haven’t done it yet, I recommend a tiny bit of NOALOX on the threads of the pill, will help it dump the heat to the body better than not having anything

Great job and awesome bling too!

Ok. Your teasing us. Now we all want to see outside shots, please.

i can see the photos now. Nice job on the mod !
makes a super-flooder palm-sized light with lots of wow-factor.

A work of art, truly excellent work!

thats wicked! whats the runtime on that thing…5 mins?
yes, outdoor shots would be awesome.
how many lumens is it about?

thanks for the re-upload -> works fin on every browser!

@ build: