Agree
Please include 32650 batteries for sale.
15000 lumen has me drooling, but the form factor is a major detractor for me. Looks kinda like a sub assembly for a Titan rocket.
It is huge. Very nicely made, but huge; however, there are two benefits to this: 1. It can use 26650 and 32650 cells which actually have enough capacity to run the light for a while on the higher settings. 2. It has enough mass and surface area to run on high for a while.
Definitely not a light you are going to take with you everywhere. It is a beast, but the output is quite staggering...especially considering the cost. The build quality is actually quite nice also, for the money.
Don’t get me wrong, that thing looks like well made machine that will take the abuse quite well. It’s just a preference thing, some like blondes, I prefer brunette /black haired ladies. With that many lumens you could bolt it onto a police helicopter or the hood of your car, light up a soccer field for a night game…
I will buy. Your SRK and M6 are well worth their cost. Very nicely done. 
Per tail cap current reading the TR-J20 stock version seems to be WAY under driven. Sounds like you have hopped it up tremendously, 15+ tail cap Amps versus 3+ Amps stock! At the high power what is the safe turbo time? Also what is the approximately max current for continuous operation? If you offer it then it would be nice if the next to max power level allowed max output for continuous operation at a nominal night time temperature of 65 to 70 F.
Does a blow torch like this need a moonlight mode and a low in the 100 Lumens range? How many levels do people want between minimum and a 10,000+ lumens maximum?
I note that one seller is offering some high enough current draw Supernight lights on Amazon that the seller warns that they will not work with protected batteries, 26650 or 18650. A similar 12 LED light reviewed on BLF has the reviewer claiming 7000+ lumens STOCK.
I received a M6 mod 2 from Richard yesterday and man I haven’t seen anything that bright. It was scorchingly bright!
The build is very neat. Emitters are perfectly centered. And the UI is great. I even got strobe by holding button longer than what takes to step down one level. When I release the button, it will go back to the last level it was in. It made me grin when I saw that strobe believe me.
Thanks for the great work, Richard!
Why not if the driver can handle it? I'd want a bunch of lows up to about 3000 lumens, then the highest mode. Too bad it's not a side clickie flashlight because an instant turbo would be highly desirable. I've seen a big side clickie, but the cost is much higher, too much higher.
I would love to put a side clicky on the TR-J20. I may try and figure something out if there is enough demand. That or use 26650s and that extra extension tube room to use the rear clicky as a momentary instead of physical switch. That would be a lot easier.
I would buy a second if you’d did everything but the LED change over. I like about 10 amps, my modest mod has it at 3.82 amps and it warms up very slowly. 10 amps should give atleast 2 amps to each led, not a bad gain, 800 lumen per led. I’ll change my leds out 16mm pads unaltered fit the eight outer slightly shave 16mm fit the inner ones, 12mm would fit the inner without any shaving.
Those leds change overs are a bit easier with those large led spacers/protectors. I found if you set the reflector upside down on a table insert the leds into the reflector being held securely with the spacers. Place your glue/paste/thermal goop on the LED pads. Do keep an eye on how those pads are lined up soldering later with less realigning. With a block under the reflector to hold it up high enough for the back end of light to be lowered onto it. Keep the bezel off at this point so you don’t smear anything trying to tighten it up. Just press the two parts together or screw them together if you have the holes. On the TR-J20 its fairly easy, after I put the screws in I wait about an hour for everything to set then take it back apart. Then I put those large spacers back in a box for future led fittings. All the wires get soldered up then its put back together.
I meant to chime in on this earlier. Thanks for the link, I’m sure that I’ll be trying these guys soon. I have a particular application in mind where I think these guys will come through for me.
Another good outfit is Tony’s Screws - www.tonysscrews.com They have a much more limited selection of hardware. It’s all top grade stuff. I have always been happy with the prices, shipping speed, and quality. I think that the “limits” of Tony’s selection include all the metric or SAE sizes a person would need for this hobby, so don’t misinterpret what I’m saying. It’s just that the screws are all black, all steel, and all hex drive. So limited in that way.
Hey guys, just got a bunch more hosts back in stock!
Got my M6 today with some LG E1 batteries. It is one impressive light in the day. Just waiting for the night to come.
However, looks like I got the old firmware where I cannot turn light off unless I was at lowest or max mode.
Where do I get a permit to purchase at?
Any luck on this? Waiting on them!
Now in stock. Sorry for the wait!
Regarding the S2 & the S6, is there a chance of getting those spacers for the triples in copper?
Yes, I’d love to be able to solder the spacer to the pill!
Copper, anyone?
The spacer is so inherently simple almost anyone can make it with some elbow grease. A hacksaw and a file. Sounds easy, not quite as easy as all that, but doable all the same.
Even easier if you have a metal lathe but not cheap considering that the smallest lengths offered in most diameters is close to a foot long it looks like.