Perhaps she can use the Tiny12DD and make a mounting ring from copper sheet or a washer? No need to piggyback.
Isn’t there a 15mm that is an FET with a fairly wide ground ring? This could be sanded down or filed down to 14mm, no?
Edit: A very close look at the A17DD-S08 reveals that it just might be able to got down to 14mm with some careful work. I’d try that.
Edit II: Richard has a board similar to this one that I’m pretty sure will make 14mm. Shoot Richard a PM and ask him to check it.
Honestly, the current doesn’t have to be very high. 1x7135 could do in a pinch (100-ish OTF lumens w/ Nichia 219), though 1x7135 plus a FET would be even better. It’s nice to have a bright turbo, and extra amps for quick flashes in party strobe mode.
Clearance from the edge is almost zero. The 14mm driver gets contact from a battery-side retaining ring, and the 15mm driver gets contact from the main battery tube.
Room would be needed for a SOIC clip, since the main point is to replace boring stock drivers with nice flashable ones.
That sounds amazing, and basically ideal. And if you stock a 17mm FET+7135 driver, I’d be happy to buy several of those too. 
No zener mod would be needed in either case, but an off-time cap is really nice to have if there’s room.
On the 15mm host (D25A), there’s plenty of vertical room so I could do that. The 15mm driver doesn’t even need to be single-sided if I set it up the same as the stock driver, which is floating above a contact board. (3-part contact plate… bat+, bat- threads, and bat- tube… so it can sense when the tube is fully tightened)
Looking closer at this D25A driver, it has an 8-legged MCU which looks rather a lot like an unlabelled attiny13. I’m tempted to remove the contact plate and ask avrdude if it’s recognizable.
However, the 14mm host has very limited vertical space… only about 3.5mm for the entire driver with components and battery contact areas. I think oshpark’s minimum thickness is 1.6mm, which leaves a max of 2.0mm for the components. I might even need to file down the driver-side edges of the board to make it fit, since the stock PCB is just over half as thick as an oshpark board.
I mean will the driver be resting on a ledge that requires the parts not go right up to 14mm or 15mm? A floating board that doesn’t rest on any ledge could have zero clearance.
So how is that done?
Is the output current shared across the two boards ? So the output from each board goes to the LED, each board has irs own input from battery, plus the PWM signal from master to slave?
I think that DrJones has the best description on his page. The Master-slave description is at the very bottom.
These boards, like the 16mm board, were created to fit inside of a (deep enough) 17mm driver pill.
Thanks
Trying to get my head around it now
Just searching a schematic . Popped an input diode yesterday by shorting Star4 to the capacitor on a 105c board.
Managed to find a SMD cap on a dead e-bike … That worked. Must have taken a hour to create a small enough solder iron tip and swap that pesky little thing. I am too old to be soldering SMD’s !
rmm if i replace the mosfet of the east-92 driver with Rectifier IRFR3711ZTRPBF N Channel MOSFET will it work ? or i need to make changes to the driver firmware?
It will work, but if I remember correctly some of them were firmware limited (didn't go to 100% PWM).
ic thanks.
Dude, where did you find a time machine...
Ordered 4 18650 batteries last Friday (12/26). They were in my mail box today, the following Monday (12/29). RMM is in Washington state. I'm clear on the opposite corner of the country in Georgia. I've never seen the postal service move that fast.
Excellent service, and will be buying from you again in the future.
I just got my BLF17DD kit…. I totally underestimated how tiny these pieces are…
Can someone link a good picture of a complete driver so I can tell where everything goes?
Really? … I guess the thread has been pushed down a little, but a search easily pulls up what you want. Tom E - BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference (try the terms BLF17DD picture)
Wow, this pretty fantastic stuff. Wish I knew about this before. So, any plans on a 365 NM UV emitter in XPG footprint?
Sorry Wight?
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Thanks Wight?
I was going to ask the same thing. Convoy is selling the bare LED on their Aliexpress page. I hope Richard carries them mounted on Noctigons. Then pick out one of the Convoy host that Richard carries, a 1.04 or 1.4 amp driver and you got yourself a 365nm UV scorpion or NDT light.
Hi Richard, I am curious about the color XP-E2 on noctigon you have on your site. I have purchased both red and green and driving them each at 1.9A, but I notice on your site the blue XP-E2 is recommend to be driven only at 1.1A max. Is it because there is not much gain after 1.1A?
Thanks!
I was just about to ask that myself! I want to put the Royal Blue XP-E2 in a small tube light and am not sure how far to go with the current level. Planning on a full copper star under it so could it take 2A?
I did build a small Convoy S2 EDC 18350 with the XP-E2 Blue for my wife and it’s much brighter than I expected. Painfully so if shone in the eyes up close so I think it would actually work for some self defense situations when in a bind.
The blue is so nice I decided to try the Royal Blue.
Richard, I’m experiencing a problem with me zeiner MTG2 M1. After being on high for (literally) a few seconds it kicks down to something between low and medium and won’t stay in high more than a few seconds. The cells are fine, resting voltage was around 4 volts per cell when I just now took them out. This driver has the stock number of 7135’s so its not taxing the cells to the point that it sags down below Vf, is it?
djozz - blue and green XP-E2, output tests
IIRC Royal Blue is both painful to look at and dangerous to your vision. I assume that Royal Blue maxes out between 2 Amps and 3 Amps.