Anybody know what brand this UV LED is from Mountain Electronics??
UV 365nm LED on 16mm Noctigon
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_113&product_id=442
Yer killin’ me Richard…. Perhaps you could start a monthly payment plan? I send you $xx.xx a month, you send me whatever strikes your fancy… Lol
Now I am awaiting these updates….
+1 ……. I feel your pain. :money_mouth_face:
I’m requesting to officially be on the reserve list for some of those new T-Pad Quad 20mm’s. 
Not greedy, just a few, to see how they compare to Dsche’s. 
Yes the XP-E2, I’ve got a triple with red, red-orange and amber I’m curious how wider spectrum amber is in comparison. The 3 color triple is easier on my eyes at night than white light and the broader spectrum of light makes it more useful than a single color red light.
Wait, is the XP-E2 amber (and other colors) a PC [phosphor-converted] emitter?
I’m pretty sure it’s not.
Lightme posted a comparison showing how wide the emission is for the PC lime and PC amber, compared to the XP-E2 green:
Original link is down in the comments in 4 emitters tested: Cree XP-E2, JR 3535, small die Nichia 219B, Luxeon Rebel lime colour
Found another PC Amber source: http://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/q/qt-brightek/qbhp684u-3535-high-power-pc-amber-emitter
If you look in the XP-E2 data sheet, you will find a "PC Amber" order code, separate from the normal amber. I'll get a few and try them out---I've never seen a PC Amber in person.
Oboy. I sure wish you took pre-orders (grin). I know it would be a hassle.
That monthly subscription amount is looking better and better ….
Hey, it works for the local organic farmers, pay your regular amount, get a box with what’s good each week ….
What do you guys think of the "group discount" format vs. the normal group buy format? I think I'm going to give it a try. Less time spent messing around with codes.
First up is the MTN-slDD driver.
I think that is a great ideal! Codes can be a PIA………
… let’s try it out on the Mega M6
I wish! Too much work in those...work that can't be sped up that much. I don't know if you saw, but I do have about 20 M6 hosts ready. I also have a few complete lights ready. I have been refining the temperature sensor operation so that it is much smoother now, but still need to make a few tweaks. Expect them to become available in the next 1-2 weeks (for real this time---Lisa says I have to sell some of my accumulated stuff!)
Well, I finally took the light apart and checked the driver with one LED. It appears to be working in low mode to a single LED. I say appears, because my hand was a bit shaky trying to change modes while holding everything in the air and powering the driver from a loose cell using a wire to the rim for bat- and holding the positive end of the cell to the bat+ spring! Looking directly at the LED, also hanging in the air, I think I saw it light up at every level, including the low mode. What next? Could it be that the driver just doesn’t play well with 3x XP-E2 R3 in parallel in low mode? :cry: What else is there to test?
Richard, are you planning on testing your xp-g2 s4 leds? Wondering if you aoso have the green hulk, high vf version?
I guess I will have to. I received some XP-G2 S4 this week. XP-G2 S4 has always been high, but I'll dedome one and test it against an "older" one I have (dedomed about 3 months ago). I still won't believe the "green hulk" hype until I see it myself; there are differences in every batch of emitter, but it is hard to believe that there is that big of a shift.
Thanks, Im hoping for the best 
I received 2 XPG2 S4 2B emitters from Richard on Saturday the 23rd. For what it’s worth, based on the picture comparison in luminarium iaculator’s thread, they are the “old” style. I have not done any further testing on them yet.
Richard, would you look at stocking
CML RF741 rework flux
Just learned about this from vestureofblood’s latest video on reflowing.
It’s described as a little goopier and doesn’t spatter when used to reuse a board with solder already on it.
Maybe also more acidic, he says “Goof-off” on a Q-tip will clean the board (but don’t get it on the dome)
Another possibly useful item I just happen to know about and haven’t seen mentioned:
Temperature Indicator Crayons
or
Temperature Indicating Sticks
I just watched that video. If you put the right amount of paste on in the first place you won't have to touch the emitter at all during reflow. Sometimes you screw up and you have to, but that should be the exception and not the rule. The right amount of solder flows to cover the entire pad without touching a thing.
Isopropyl alcohol (91% or better; 99.9% works best) can clean the entire board, including the dome. I always clean the dome after reflow and also after doing any solder work near an LED. Every single time. That tiny bit of flux from soldering on the wires will ruin your LED if it lands on the dome and burns when you turn the light on.
I also use tacky flux for some tasks, it just depends on what I am doing. I use the MG Chemicals paste flux.
This is precisely why I use solder paste masks for drivers as well as LED reflow. Takes the guesswork out of how much to use.
I know there are arguments against the masks, but I’ve built many a light and driver using them and have no issues. My issues come from a new design that I don’t have a mask for, I always get shorts and use too much paste. Get frustrated placing tiny infinitesimal bits of solder paste on 27 gazillion tiny pads.
YMMV
Edit: FWIW, I NEVER use flux. With the right solder it’s already in the core of the wire, with the right solder paste, the mix is perfect. Whatever argument you wish to use, I’ve built well over 300 lights and hundreds of drivers without additional flux. I don’t like the stuff, it smokes, stinks, makes a mess… oh yes, I bought some and tried what everyone was raving about, but it’s not for me, thank-you-very-much.