Will you be stocking the KP 5200 26650? Is it possible to trim down the M6 mod 2 from 7 modes to 4/5?
14mm Noctigon doesn't exist. You can trim down the 16mm versions to 14mm. Same thing with Sinkpad...no 14mm that I'm aware of, but you can trim them down. There is a 10mm Sinkpad, but it puts the connections too close to be able to fit any sort of centering ring.
1. I will not be carrying any KP cells for the time being, unless you guys want to pay more than the battery is worth. I know what their prices are (I've gotten quotes on several occasions) and they are about 10%-20% higher than they should be, in my opinion. That said, my supplier(s) is/are carrying the same cells now and I will be trying to get some with my next order. I skipped the 4200mAh Chinese internal cell (the 4200mAh KP also uses this cell) because even my supplier told me to avoid them because the quality and consistency wasn't there.
2. I could offer custom modes, but again it would add more cost to the equation because it costs me more time. The way the M6 driver is piggybacked means that the mode levels are anything but linear, so anything I change would have to be build, flashed, tested, probably tweaked, then built, flashed, and tested again.
The standard sanding drums that come with Dremels grind down copper MCPCBs in minutes.
So I wound up hosing my SRK with the new driver. Anyway, I’m pretty sure it’s a lost cause. What is the lumen difference between the M6 option 1 and 2? I see 4000+ for mod 2.
What happened? M1 is right around 3000 lumens, but usually falls just a little short. The M2 can be up to almost 5000 lumens depending on the cells and LEDs used.
I just got shoulder surgery so I have to sleep sitting up in my recliner. I have my M6 sitting on the table next to me pointing straight up. It makes a fantastic night light/reading lamp bouncing off the ceiling. The range of output levels makes it perfect for this use. As soon as I heal up, I’ll be buying several of your drivers to mod my other side clicky lights.
Has anyone modded a magnetic ring light to work with the custom FET driver? I have a Black Shadow Darth with terrible PWM.
Not that I know of, but I think it should be possible depending on how the ring works. However, it would be difficult to do without the specific light in hand. If it is just varying resistance then I think you could set up a table and voltage divider circuit that would switch PWM levels depending on the voltage read on one of the attiny's pins.
I can’t get all three led’s to light up. I feel like there’s a bad trace or leg on one of the chips, because I’ve replaced all the wires several times, thinking one was bad. I think I might have a bad led too, and none to switch it out with. It’s a mod disaster, really. Plus I also figured since the board was thinner than the original, it seems that the top “-” ring wasn’t making contact, so I flowed some solder all around to make it a bit thicker. Nothing worked. I’m thinking of buying a light to replace it and I think I’ll hold off on making mods for a while.
Are your LEDs mounted on the stock single aluminum board? I’ve found the traces on those boards to be weak, even without a lot of juice flowing through them. I’ve burned out the traces on several.
Yeah. Unfortunately I have no spare LEDs to test. And my choice is to spend $20 on 3 noctigons on just buy a pre modded light M6. But it’s that and all of them only light at a moonlight mode anyway, even when I desolder that led. I’ve literally spent 4 or 5 hours on this light already and I’ve had it.
Buy the M6, but pick up some LEDs on Noctigons too. You have to get that SRK running. Modding isn’t necessarily budget friendly, and major fails are a part of the process. It’s a matter of pride. Don’t let it defeat you. You have all the time in the world.
You might consider a preorder on the protected 5200s if your supplier can track them down. They don’t seem to be very easy to get…
Yeah, but I still have no idea what’s wrong with the light. I’ve switched out everything but the LEDs. All new wires and everything. I see nothing wrong with the board but it’s still not working correctly. It worked before I modded it, and now it doesn’t. Oh well, I don’t have much a budget for it this month.
It’s the traces. Been there done that.
Can you scrape the mask off beside the emitter and solder an extension wire out to the pad? Or simply bring the wire right to the emitter? This would skip the traces all the way to the emitter, perhaps that would allow it to work.
I lucked out and placed the 2300th order on your web site last night. A nice round number. :bigsmile: Now awaiting my second fully modded M6 but the new version with the new firmware with last level memory and the “OFF” capability directly from any light level. With it’s 4500 to 5000 lumens capability from such a small package it is a light bomb.
BTW I did not note any mention of the new version of the star firmware modification on the M6 description so it might come as a surprise to some customers and might be worth adding to the description. Is the same firmware mod going to be included with fully modified “SecurityIng” SRK Clones?
Let me ask you this. One LED with a bad trace would cause the entire light to not function correctly? Even if you disconnect the LED altogether it would still affect the driver? None of the modes work, you just screw it together and it lights dimly, sometimes you don’t even have to hit the power. I’m pretty sure there’s 2 or 3 problems with the light.
I’ve had the same dim LED problem, even with the power off. I repaired the trace, and another one went out. I replaced the stock board with Noctigons, and everything is fine.
The stock traces in some of these boards can’t handle any kind of modding.
Just placed an order for a M6
Ezcited!how long does it take please?
My earlier M6s were about 2 weeks. My S3 was ordered on the 7th and should ship tomorrow or Tuesday based on Richard’s statement to me that he started work on it Friday IIRC.
Considering where you are the shipping may be the slowest item. For me USPS Priority mail is typically less than 3 days. When I lived in the Philippines as a kid in the 1950s and 60s I remember that surface mail could take up to 3 months! 