Inderdaad haartilijk bedankt.
I checked three of Richard’s modded lights, a S3, a M6 and a Small Sun ZY-T08 and none of them show visible PWM that I could detect at any output level. Glad to see this and suggest that this is another reason to get a RMM modified light as I understand that the stock M6 and SRK have quite noticeabe PWM though I do not have a stock light of either on hand to verify that. Certainly my stock Darth and Warrior have noticeable PWM though the new Terminator T70 does not.
None of my lights will have visible PWM as they're all 9.4khz or higher, although some of the FET drivers have audible PWM on some of the mid levels. In the future they may all use the faster PWM so that won't be an issue either.
None of my lights including the M6 that I have purchased or modified using drivers from RMM show any PWM flicker even on video. I can’t stand PWM flicker so this is another of the many reasons I keep coming back to his store. Buy with confidence. Unless you decide to mod one on your own, you owe it to yourself to get an M6 fully modded by Richard. You will never be disappointed!
Speaking of that, I just received a notice from Paypal that the driver, triple XPL and more are on their way to build my Cypreus triple XPL.
Be careful with that setup! It is amazing but requires caution. The small triple XP-L + FET driver is the first light I've built that I felt was just too much heat too fast in too small a package. 20 seconds feels as hot as 90 seconds at 6A with a triple XP-G2.
Do you think the heat will be more manageable with an all-copper Cypreus 18650 body? I’m considering ordering one just for this setup.
I don't know for sure since I don't have one. I imagine that the extra copper mass will buy you some extra runtime before it becomes saturated, but you still don't have near enough surface area for continuous running.
My Cypreus handles it pretty well, but about 90 seconds is all you’ll want to hold it with a top cell in place, and be ready to place it on a good heat sink! 
“Continuos running” is a misleading concept in a light that has a 700mAh power source and is running the amperage 3 XP-L’s will pull in this set-up. The cell is dead in short order! I saw 9.21A at start-up, still doing almost 8A in 2 minutes. Can’t be much cell left at all, maybe 3 or 4 minutes? So heat output will be falling exponentially to the cell.
That said, you need a good place to sit the light down after trying this! A big hunk of aluminum or steel, bed of ice, something. Don’t toss it on the bed! And preferrably, if possible, get that cell outta there!
Yeah. Battery will be dead in just a few minutes with an 18350. That’s why I was thinking of ordering an 18650 Cypreus. More runtime.
Not sure of the length or weight of the 18650 Cypreus though… might be too heavy for me to comfortably EDC.
With an 18650 Cypreus, you’ll want to limit the top end to perhaps 197 out of 255, controlling current to the lower 6A range and thereby allowing the light some breathing room from the excess heat. Remember, in a full Cu light the heat will almost instantly travel all the way to the tail switch, getting it hot as well. This will surround your highly explosive 18650 cell with large amounts of heat, so if long run times are what you’re after you should also be aware of possible Pyrotechnics displays.
Ouch!!!
Didn’t think of that. Good point that the battery would instantly be surrounded by heat. I’d need a battery tube designed with an insulating sleeve inside it to prevent too much heat transferring to the sides of the battery.
I don’t need really long runtimes, but I would like to be able to get maybe a minute at max power.
Not sure I’d want to limit the top end output… that defeats the purpose of making a “WOW LOOKAT THOSE LUMENS” pocket rocket. If I’m going to do that I might as well just stick with my triple XPG2.
Do you know how much current a triple xp-l would draw from an Efest 35a 18650 in dd?
12A+
Sounds like an arc welder to me rather than a flashlight if run too long. However Richard estimated to me in a PM that my modified SupFire L1 is drawing 25 Amps or so when using Sony VTC4 batteries running on the max output that he tested. IMO truly outrageous. If they could be left on Turbo continuously some of these modded lights could suck down a set of batteries in almost no time at all. Waiting to get it back from Richard.
The PWM can still be detected, but it’s nearly impossible to see during regular use. My standard test is to rapidly wave a thin, stiff, white sheet through the beam and look at it from the side to look for individual “frames” while it moves. A business card or playing card can work, though what I’ve found the most effective is a pupillary distance ruler which came with some glasses I bought. Here is what it looks like on a light with 188 Hz PWM and a 11% duty cycle:
On lights running at 4.5 kHz, I can still see the PWM in reflections and such; every time I move my eyes I see discrete frames reflecting back at me. But at faster PWM speeds like 18 kHz, I don’t see it at all during normal use. The only way for me to see it then is by using the card-waving test. That speed produces “frames” too narrow and too close together for me to capture on a camera though… on a pic like I showed above, there would be a new frame every pixel or two so it’d look continuous. (BTW, this method requires a camera which exposes the entire image at once, not the moving-window-blind method the iPhone uses)
Fast PWM looks great, but it’s less efficient than slow PWM due to the ramp-up and ramp-down time for each frame. I think I might make a firmware soon which uses slower PWM on levels under 10 lumens, to increase efficiency on those lower levels.
Wouldn’t that accentuate the effect? I would think that, efficiency aside, lower output requires higher pwm levels than higher output to remain undetectable. Maybe I’m misunderstanding this.
I get 12.04A from a rested Efest 35A Purple cell, in the light. (Yes, the 18650 sticks out the back of the Cypreus EDC, but it sill shows a tail reading just fine. 
)
On your last point - I suspect that point of view is part of why RMM isn’t selling triple XP-L lights. From the front line reports it sounds like “I don’t want to limit this” simply doesn’t make sense here. Tons of high end cars artificially limit power and are still more impressive than their less powerful cousins. Fighter jets are the same way. Without the limits they would not function.
That said, maybe an immediate ramp-down rather than timed step-down would be beneficial. JonnyC describes a method of starting at a PWM level of 255 (full on) and then ramping down to 140 over the course of 30s in the OP of this thread. That sounds like a great way to get the blinding “wow” factor and then rein it in without anyone noticing ;-). The time period may need to get closer to 10-15s though. I’m not really sure how long I can hang onto an 18650 tube light running at 12A…
EDIT: spelling. reign =/= rein