Yeah $400 flashlights… What the hell am I gonna do with that? Break it probably. :-/
MAP is a deal breaker.
The Super Shockers actually sold pretty well, not nearly as much as the small triples, but still plenty to keep me busy. I still get requests for them all the time from people who already have one (or two) and their friends who have seen the lights.
Let's limit discussion right now to stock lights, but at a better value than is available anywhere else (that I've checked).
Always ways around MAP as done routinely by many web seller companies I have seen. Do not show actual price until the item is in a shopping cart is one way. I mean MAP does mean “minimum ADVERTISED price” so if you do not advertise the price then you can set it at whatever per my understanding. Another stratagem I have seen is requiring the potential customer to have you email them the price once they request it and give an email address. They then click on a link in the answering email to get that price in the shopping cart.
I got in on the Group Buy for the SupBeam X40 and like it, particularly the continuous variable magnetic ring user interface. Be improved IMO if it included a standby position on the ring though. Some other Acebeam lights though have stepped output with multiple detents for the magnetic ring which I do not like nearly as much.
I wish it was so, but the Chinese (at least XTAR & Acebeam) don't use the term literally, as you or I would instinctively use it : they mean that you can't sell it for less than MAP, coupon codes, etc., included. When I tried that before I got tattled on really fast by my competitors. It is too much work to maintain a secret network of discounted prices and codes. I had to fight them for weeks based on the language of my dealership agreement over my rebate program. They can't stop me from discounting or giving away other products or services with the lights, but the dollar amount paid at the time of purchase cannot be below their set price.
I understand their policy in a situation where there are clear requirements for dealers with regard to their responsibilities to customers, and the manufacturer's responsibilities with respect to the dealer, customers, pricing, quantities, warranties, etc., but the way things are now where pretty much anyone with enough money can buy the goods at dealer prices, there should be no such restrictions at all. This isn't like a car dealership where there are long-term contracts, huge overhead costs, huge barriers to entry, and limits to how many dealers for a given geographical area. In those relationships the dealer in some ways represents the brand and has a huge vested interest in the brand that far exceed the cost of inventory (specialized service department, branding, advertising, among others). On the other hand, flashlights are "wild west" retailing, where the pricing swings are huge and the number of competitors and pricing of products swings quickly and uncontrollably.
/MAP dialogue 
You could always work around it, albeit with more time and difficulty. Say for example a product has a MAP of $200, but want to sell it for $140. Sell the product at the MAP price, then refund the difference after the sale. The records show that MAP pricing was adhered to and they can’t prove what you refunded or why.
In much the same way that a coupon has a code, this could be done for the refund, a set code or coupon for that product “RMM SPECIAL” for example, would trigger the refund. Would that work to keep everyone happy or would it be too much hassle?
Your plan is feasible Dale, but the issue is that the customer needs to know the price before buying.
Always messin stuff up!
Acebeam/Supbeam are nice lights. I have the K40M, K50 V2, and X60. I like how their big light have the magnetic ring so you can easily step up or down the brightness. However, I don’t think a lot of people will pay for example, $350+ for a X60M. But, the free battery and charger bundle might make it worth while for the some people, since I did buy an extra 6 18650 batteries from you when I brought the X60.
Oh yeah, just saw this (Moonlight Special 17mm Driver) on your website Richard. This seems like a nice driver, but I want to ask about the off time memory. Can this be set to 0.5 second like the other Qlite driver on your website?
Main reason I didn’t like the stock Qlite driver was the 2+ seconds on time memory. That was why I always choose the off time memory option of 0.5 second.
D10, I think you might be a bit confused about the difference between on-time and off-time memory. Off-time memory completely eliminates the mode "lock" or "memorize" time.
Trying to simplify things:
"On-time" memory counts time while the driver is on. This means that after a set time being turned on in a mode, say 2 seconds if programmed as such, the driver says "memorize" the mode. This means that if you turn off the light before the mode is memorized, it will switch to the next mode the next time you turn it on. Similarly, if the mode is memorized while the light is on, it would take two clicks to switch modes.
"Off-time" memory counts the time (to simplify things) while the driver is off. This means that even if the light is only on in a mode for a fraction of a second, if it is turned off for more than about 0.5 seconds, it will remember that mode. Similarly, you never have to press the tailcap twice to switch modes.
The standard qlite FW uses "on-time" memory at around 2.5-3 seconds, as does nlite but with a shorter lock time.
In short: for most uses the "off-time" is superior and much more intuitive.
Thanks for the explanation Richard,
I only understand the “on time” memory is how long the flashlight is on to remember the mode and “off time” memory is how long it takes the driver to remember the mode after flashlight is off.
I was trying to say off time memory is good based on my experience using 0.5 sec compared to the standard Qlite FW. So I wanted to know if the Moonlight driver can set the time to be 0.5 as well. After trying out the off time memory FW option on the Qlite driver I brought from your site, I can’t stand the standard Qlite FW anymore. For example, sometimes I will only half press the tail cap momentarily to check my backyard when I hear some noise outside only to find it went to the next mode the next time I use it.
I guess I’m just tired after work. lol
You do if you're a slow presser. 
A .5sec. half-click won't change modes. 
BTW, your Moonlight Special driver's drop-down group menu only lets you choose 'Group 1', Group 2', or 'Group 2'. No Group 3 or Group 4.
Also when I try to log in I get a security warning in Firefox:
www.mtnelectronics.com uses an invalid security certificate.
The certificate is not trusted because no issuer chain was provided.
(Error code: sec_error_unknown_issuer)
I am fixing the options now.
That security warning is a false positive; it has been an issue that the hosting provider can't solve. It is due to their implementation and it is one of the main reasons I am switching hosting providers as we speak. The site is secure and the certificate is valid, but the chain doesn't show up correctly, but only on some browsers. On Chrome or Safari there is no warning, but on Firefox and most Android browsers the warning shows up. When you click on it and check the certificate it shows up as valid, but it is the way they handle the certificate chain that causes problems.
I didn't see the warning using Iron Browser, but my hard drive failed suddenly so I'm on another computer until I replace it. 
I am not sure I want a charger charing my cells… 
Not getting the security warning running Firefox but maybe because also I am still running Win XP on my normal computer.
Triple XPL eta?
I've been working hard on my Chinglish, but I'm still learning so please cut me some slack! 
(this is what happens when you copy and paste from manufacturer literature late at night without proofreading!)
Soon. I am hoping for next week.
Yesterday it was brought to my attention that at least some of the U3 LEDs will not pull full amps when used in a 4A+ light. Since then, I have talked with IOS extensively, heard feedback from several customers, and have conducted some testing myself.
Here are my preliminary findings:
- Some of the U3 1A & 2A LEDs appear to be affected
- A few of the other emitters may have also been affected, but not all of them
- The issue is not with the MCPCB; it is with the LED itself
- The affected LEDs will only pull about 5A direct drive (at least 1A lower than expected)
- On the whole, the output at normal drive currents seems to be either as good or better than before.
I want to make sure that you got what you paid for. If you bought one or more of these LEDs, and it is not performing as expected, you will have the choice to either
- Return the LED(s) for a full refund, with pre-paid return label; or
- Receive a $3 refund per LED, and keep the LED(s).
- In order to receive the refund, you will need to show how it is underperforming.
If you believe you have an affected LED, please send an e-mail to mountainelectronics at gmail dot com with the following information:
- Name
- Order number
- Description of the problem with affected LED(s)
- Whether you would like to return the LED(s) or receive a partial refund.
Thank you for your support.
Richard
Wow Richard, you are so very generous….
‘not performing as expected’ above 4 Amps?
According to Cree you are on your own above 3 Amps already, so how will you be able to qualify any product you sell beyond manufacturers spec?
What will the next batch bring?
I’m just throwing this out there… I don’t drive above 3 amps anyway.
Edit to add:Cree does not bin for Vf, they spec a ‘typical’ and Max Vf. So it could be the batch has higher than ‘typical’ Vf.