MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

Not as easy as that, emitter hole will have to be opened up. I will be doing this in the next couple of weeks, have a project going on to compare apples to apples in a Cree Trifecta using Convoy C8’s as the hosts.

Yeah, and...? :bigsmile:

Anyone tried an MTG2 in the Convoy M1 host?

Hey! Been super busy with all the orders and holiday events these past few days, but here are some updates (are either currently up on the site, or will be there in a few hours):


  • Bare XM-L2 1A LEDs
  • Bare XM-L2 1D LEDs
  • Bare XP-G2 R5 3C LEDs
  • Bare XP-G2 R4 5A1 LEDs (for you warm tint afficionados!)
  • 14mm XM-L2 3C (aluminum star)
  • XM-L2 T3 7A3 on 16mm and 20mm Noctigon
  • P60 Bare Dropins - Orange Peel & Smooth Reflectors
  • 20, 24, & 26 AWG Silicone Wire
  • Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound (14g)
  • Convoy S3-like host (identical except it doesn't say "Convoy")
  • 20mm & 42mm AR Lens
  • qlite drivers
  • Plastic 3M Emitter Insulating Gaskets - XP and XM
  • XP-E2 R4 1C on 16mm Noctigon
  • XM-L2 T6 3C on 16mm & 20mm Noctigon
  • XM-L2 T4 5B1 on 16mm & 20mm Noctigon

Probably some other stuff I'm forgetting right now, but that's most of it!

Awesome job Richard!
Packaging is nice and those little boxes make great storage. :bigsmile:

You'll notice that I am now offering an assembly service for flashlight hosts and P60 dropins. Look soon for de-domed LEDs and a few more things!

Pretty decent price for assembly service.

For the S2 and S3’s you have “Just check the box and also add your choice of 17mm driver and 20mm LED to your shopping cart.”

That’s great news. I just placed an order for a custom P60 Drop-in.
Its going to have:

-XM-L2 T4 7A3 80+ CRI
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver (5mA 2% - 25% - 100%)
-Orange Peel reflector

I am going to use the firefly mode as sort of locator glow and 2% as my night light.

can’t wait! :slight_smile:

some website issues...

when clicking on the top tab - "Flashlight Hosts" your flashlight hosts are hidden. Some people new to your site might not even see that you have light hosts.

You might consider moving your flashlight hosts under "Flashlights" tab.

and move empty P60 drop-ins under "Components".

Maybe on your Silicone Wire page add an Ampacity Chart like (wiki), since this is one of the more important specs when choosing AWG. ppl should know... what is the recommended max current for a certain wire size.

After-all the site is quickly becoming a modder's haven.

as always great work Richard.

Site’s working fine over here MRT, hosts show as well as the empty drop-ins. Click hosts in the top row for the hosts, click the drop down menu for P-60 drop-ins to get the empty shells.

And for what it’s worth, the amperage capability of a wire is going to vary according to it’s type of copper, number of strands and various other factors. Wiki’s description is way on the safe side, in my humble opinion. Tenergy Silicone 22ga wire is easily capable of more than double that chart. Or at least, it’s giving me siginificantly higher numbers in my lights. :wink:

And as a caution, there are just some things you don’t want to buy the budget versions of. I just received 22 ga silicone coated wire from a vendor I had not purchased it from previously. The silicone is so thick on the 22 ga that it’s bigger than Tenergy 20ga and won’t fit in my smaller lights at all. Sometimes it’s best to stick with the known name brand.

I think he’s trying to say it’s different from the other drop downs which when clicked go to a webpage with the two options as links. Confused me for a sec when the hosts didn’t show up under the host tab.

Regarding the new 20, 24, and 26 gauge silicone wire: it isn't as nice as the 18 and 22 gauge that I have. The strand count isn't as high and it is a bit thicker than it could be, but it is less expensive and you still get the benefit of the silicone sheathing. I will have to work on adding the OD to each of them.

I'm still trying to decide how I want to categorize the new additions. The current layout isn't permanent, don't worry too much

Just wanted to thank everyone for all of the support, suggestions, and friendship over the past few months!

Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all of you!


Merry Christmas Richard.

do you carry King Kong button top 26650 battery by any chance? :smiley:

Unfortunately, I don't currently. Got a soldering iron? You can add a solder bump to the cells, but I can't do it for you (although I wish I could!)

I do have soldering iron… the problem is every time I tried to put some solder on top unprotected batteries… it has some kind of pointy ( sharp) bumps and I’m afraid to heat up the battery too :~

It may sound counterproductive when working with something heat-sensitive like a battery, but the hotter your iron the better. Hotter means less time, and heat for a long time that spreads beyond the localized area where you want the solder is what kills batteries. A very hot iron will bond the solder to the button before heat can spread to the crimped seal between the button and the outer shell.

Put a drop of liquid flux on the button. Load up a big dollop of solder on the tip of the iron. Let the iron heat back up and recover the heat from melting the solder onto the tip, then touch the bottom of the solder dollop onto the button and count to 'one-' and pull the iron away. Don't let the tip contact the button, just the solder hanging off the bottom. Once you have at least some solder bonded you can let the battery cool off completely (it shouldn't even be warm if you do it right) and add another dollop if it didn't get enough the first time. Soldering to solder is much easier and quicker than soldering to steel.

1+ Hot & fast.
Perfect instructions Comfy.