I still have a UF-T20 waiting to be modded. It kind of got forgotten when I decided to use a JAX Z1 instead.
On that note, do you know if it’s possible to order just an optic for the JAX Z1? I got one as a host and its glass is slightly deformed so the throw is about 20% lower than it should be. Still works fine, but if there’s a way to get another optic I’d be very interested. If not, I’ll continue to use it as-is.
Use that i4 for Samsung 28A's, full charge is @4.30V.
Recently there was a discussion here of XTAR lights and why Richard does not carry them. There is one light that, based on my purchases on Amazon, is reasonably cheap and seems to be the best of it’s type. This is the Xtar UL1 USB powered light. It converts any USB power pack to a claimed 180 Lumens flashlight. It includes a approximately 225mm USB flex cable which allows the light, attached to a USB battery pack, to be pointed in any direction without moving the power pack. The lowest price I found on Amazon for it is about $12 as I recall.
With a sizable USB power pack it should make an excellent emergency light that lasts well with the added versatility of the flex cable allowing use as a lamp.
IMO worthwhile carrying if available without carrying all the Xtar Flashlights.
Richard, FYI you show the length of the LG ICR18650E1 3200mAh button top battery to be 16.7mm. That can’t be true. 
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=192
I ought to start an official proofreading thread.
Be careful who you choose to be your attorney! Hopefully that person possesses good writing skills and has great attention to detail. 
Do you still use LEDseal on your dedomes? I have a can, I'm just debating if it's worth it.
Yes. It helps protect the LED from damage during shipping and installation. I think if you are putting them in your own light and are careful it isn't necessary.
How accurate are tailcap amp readings? I have a qlite with 12*7135 on a Panasonic laptop pull that’s only reading ~2.5A. This is my meter http://thd.co/1iWLTqJ
with original, thin and long strips… NOT accurate 
try some short, thick wires…
would 6-8 inches of 12 awg work? or do i need shorter and thicker?
That’s fine.
thanks for the help guys, I’ll not hijack this thread any further
Will be you be receiving more protected NCR18650PF's in the near future, or a restocking for your protected cells in general?
Yes, they should be here next week. Also take a look at the new NCR18650BDs. They are basically a slightly higher capacity version of the PF.
Richard, I don’t mean to rush you. I know you’re busy, but would like to know if my order for the MT-G2 and the Zener mod driver with MCU removed has shipped yet, or estimate of when it might ship. Thanks!
does anybody have experience with these enova IMR’s?
>> http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=396
how do they compare with the Samsung 25R’s at 5amps?
They are not comparable to a 25R. They will not do 5A direct drive into an XM-L2; if I remember correctly they will do about 4A into an XM-L2.
This is what you’re looking for, post #3095. Without knowing exactly what’s under the wrapper it’s difficult to make many positive assumptions about the cell. RMM has priced them accordingly.
Also, I’m not sure these things are called IMR anywhere other than your post. They appear to be relatively high drain, but if they aren’t labeled IMR I wouldn’t assume that they are IMR.
hmm thanks Wight. The wrapper on the battery itself says IMR, should it not be trusted?
edit: that post was very helpful