Thanks Richard, just bought some more Led's :)
Red S2+ host… Very tempting
Are you going to sell the attiny13a-mmu? hopefully preprogrammed.
I can’t get them here in Sweden, they will not be in stock anywhere i can buy them for at least 10 weeks 
It looks better in person than in the photos. It is a a very nice finish and color. They nailed it with this one.
Absolutely. Waiting for them to come in later this week.
As if I know anything about where to buy electronics from Sweden.
Nice that is some more good news 
And thanks for the very good description on what specs where important for the other components on the Ospark page, it was the first time i really got it, and could find the correct items myself or at least i hope anyway 
Maybe someone could check if i am on the right track.
C1 : TDK, C3225X7R1E106K250AC, CAP, MLCC, X7R, 10UF, 25
OTC : TDK, C1608X7R1A105K080AC, CAP, MLCC, X7R, 1UF, 10V
R1 : VISHAY DRALORIC, CRCW060319K1FKEA, MOTSTÅND, 0603, 19.1K
R2 : VISHAY DRALORIC, CRCW06034K70FKEA, RESISTOR, 4.7K,
The only one i am unsure of is the SOD-323 Diode, i remember you had tested an ultra low volt loss version of the protection diode in one of wight’s driver threads, that sounded extra interesting
What the spec and make was that one?
@Dale, you are right that mouser.eu has them, but shipping is 20€ 
so thats not affordable unfortunately.
Here in Sweden we can buy these kind of components from Farnell through a company called Micro-kit for very affordable shipping, for Sweden that is for ~$7.50 shipping for an order of value under $58.
That is at best option i have found so far, and for the attiny13a-mmu it suits me fine to have an “must buy” item to shop from Richard, then i can get some more hard to get but much needed modding supplies
Maybe you could call Mouser and see if there is a cheaper shipping method that isn’t listed on the site. A lot of time’s that’s the case and if you talk to someone there they can send it normal postage for a fraction of the regular listings. Worth a shot
You are right that could work, i thought about that when wrote my reply.
That how i found out about micro-kit, i called up farnell and asked about how I as a non company could buy from them and they recommended micro-kit.
Even if they would be able to send them to me for some cheaper shipping, that would still be about what i would pay for shipping directly from RMM in a bubble mailer & then i can get them pre programmed & get me some other nice items like those hard to find anywhere else 10mm sinkpads.
And i am no rush, as i understand it Ospark takes there sweet time to get out this kind of orders, so i may get everything i need before i even see those boards
Am I seeing things, or is that a metal clicky on the red S2+?
I really don't need another Convoy S, but this one is tempting.
Indeed. I'm not sure yet how it's sealed. Need to take one apart.
Those parts look good. If you're going to order the MMU from me, then you might as well get the rest of the parts because those parts are so small and light that they won't increase the shipping cost any.
I've been running the NXP PMEG1020EA,115, which seems to have the lowest voltage drop out of almost any SOD-323 package. This means that you get a slightly higher gate voltage for lower on-resistance. That said, I'm not sure that the tiny gate voltage difference makes a big difference in output, especially since they cost significantly more than most of the other options. They might, but either way I'm going to keep on running them (while always experimenting with new parts on the way).
Ok, i will hold off ordering those parts until you have made the kit available, but i need the LFPAK33 FET in different amounts, to the 10mm driver kit because i plan to build some of wight’s +7135 LFPAK33 versions also.
Anyway when you have everything in the shop i can check what i need.
Thanks for that NXP PMEG1020EA And they are available at se.farnell.com :bigsmile: i know the difference is probably not even noticeable visually in output, or should i say most likely not.
But i get a strange satisfaction from knowing, that i have done absolutely everything i know how, to get the most out of a build, i am just an perfectionist in that way.
To bad my modding skills is not moving as fast as my ambitions so far, I have still lots to learn
EDIT
Something i have been wondering about, is if i build the attiny13a+fet drivers without the diode, and i or somebody accidentally inserts the battery the wrong way.
What on the driver breaks, is it the mcu? and do i need to bridge the diode pads with solder to get a functioning driver or can i just not use the diode and i will work but without the extra protection? But with a little higher gate voltage for lower on-resistance for some extra output
yea man you read my mind and just knew I had been waiting on you to get those in stock. I'll probably order a couple more if there's any left next week haha...bought a new car and got a truck this week so it put a dent in the bank account.
You have me feinding for some FET powers, any idea when you'll have more 17mm boards in stock? I have built a couple lights with them and have a couple examples I can look at for reference so I don't mind buying the FET kits and attempting to solder them myself if you can get the boards. I've looked at the oshpark site and I don't understand what or how to order from there. I could figure it out if I had to I suppose...
Anxiously awaiting my red s2+! I need a s2, s7 & s8 to complete my collection :)
Thanks for asking the question Cajampa, I too have been wondering that about the diode removal. Is the small gain worth the risk of being destroyed? It might depend a lot on the light itself, how difficult would it be to replace the driver or the component that fried?
I have the small ATTiny13A MMU’s on order, and the programmer board as well. So I’ll be trying to build some of these just because I like tiny, and I like the challenge. I’ll be sending a few to Photon Fanatic to see if he might incorporate some BLF drivers in his Fantastic Custom Builds. (Fred is a lathe GENIUS!) This guy once found a square bar of pure Tungsten, cut it round and made a light out of it. A very fancy beautiful light with very much intricate detail work! And HEAVY! lol Man did I want that light! Man did I NOT have that kind of money! 
Yeah i hope Richard can give us some better understanding about the possible diode mod.
Cool a Tungsten light or as you said heavy are more the right word.
I will probably not ever be able to afford something truly special light custom made out of exotic materials, but today i was imagining a custom light made out of pure silver including the mcpcb 
this hobby sure takes my day dreaming to new places
mmmmm Thermal Conductivity of 429 versus Aluminum’s 205
I wonder if we could get even higher amps from a silver mcpcb than a copper DTP one has anyone done a mcpcb out of a ~16mm coin.
I used 3 Silver half dollars once for heat sinking in a Courui.
Nice
I think i remember now that the most important improvement was the DTP part and not the copper’s 400 and aluminum’s 205 difference of thermal conductivity, but i am a bit tired so it very likely i am off here.
Has djozz done any aluminum vs aluminum DTP tests?
Yep, the boards test included both. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/25978
Thanks djozz i had read that but forgot half of it, but at least “the most important was the DTP part” was right then & i most likely got that from that very test.