hmm
If you’re using stock DMM leads then yes it sounds about right, albeit less than half what it should be. Can you get your hands on some Romex house wiring? A couple of 4” 12ga solid copper leads will give you a true reading, just strip one end of the wire long and fold it over so that it will fit snug into the DMM. That should give you an idea what it’s really doing and if you have an issue somewhere or not.
Also remember that protected cells and most lap pulls won’t run the FET at full output, the lower internal resistance cells like the LG HE-2 and Efest Purple 35A will be among the top performing cells.
Richard, figured I’d say thanks for the quick shipping on my last 2 orders. Just put together an S2 with AR lens, qlite driver, smooth reflector, and xml2 t6 4c which I dedomed. Also, received my Enova 2600 cells yesterday…for $3.99 a piece I couldn’t resist. I’m quite impressed with these. However, I will need to order a new emitter. I stacked 4 extra 7135s on the qlite and the output is great. I’ve never cared at all about tint until this light… :Sp :Sp :Sp
Must have been the dedoming of the 4c. It’s horrible…I can’t even describe it. It’s like if flashlights were people and they got sick, this is what their vomit would look like. Anyway, I’ll be putting in another order soon for a new emitter…something not so warm this time.
Thanks for the great service!
Dave
Funny, that’s almost exactly what I thought when I read that you had de-domed a 4C tint. 
Well, okay, not exactly. You said it much better, rather eloquently even. But I at least made a yuck-face while I read it. 
A customer sent me a link this morning of a video review he did of the Maxtoch M24 Sniper. I didn't ask him to do it, but he wanted to share his thoughts about the light. There is a tabletop review portion and then an outdoor beamshot portion with 100-400 yard segments.
Richard/others with experience:
I bought the SRK 32x 7135 driver off you a while back, and I am wondering if I can stack a few more 7135’s on it?? If so, do I have to place them on certain chips, or just pick any random chip?
Any chip is fine (they are all in parallel). I also like crackers and cookies. 
THANKS!!
Some Habanero salsa to go with that will really make it “HOT”. :bigsmile:
Looking at MTN now I see there are 3C, 1A, and 2C in stock. I’ll probably order a couple…which do you think would be the best for dedome?
1A.
This should get you near 5000K after de-doming, and since it’s a bit on the red side of the black-body line the green-shift shouldn’t be terrible.
As a general guideline, de-doming will make the tint about 1200K to 1500K warmer and 1-2 bins greener on the tint diagram:
The dotted line is the closest you can get to pure white. Personally, I find 3D tint to be the sweet spot for a good neutral white, but it looks terrible after de-doming. 1A/1D/2A or maybe 1R/1U/2R usually works best for de-doming.
I was a little underwhelmed with the new driver output, that why I was asking about the extra chips. However, I was thinking, it could be the cells I am using. I am currently using 4 pana NCR18650A protected….do you think they are holding back my current?
Yea, I dedomed a 1A and there was nothing off-putting about the resulting tint. The “tint shift” in the hotspot of domed XM-L2’s disappears, which is nice.
Short answer… Heck yes!
If you want good cells that’ll kick up the current but still have a lot of capacity get some LG MH1’s.
Also, copper braid those springs. That will make a huge difference.
The dotted line is the black body line, or Plankian curve, and doesn’t represent pure white except for at the .33x, .33y (approximately) central mix of colors. The dotted line will vary greatly from left to right. White being an equal mix of all colors, it’s a definite spot on the curve where white occurs.
It’s more complicated than it seems, to be sure, as temperatures affect apparent colors and the idealistic black body line is misleading.
Thanks guys. Just ordered 2 with 1A tint.
Hi Richard
Can you tell the reflector measures of Maxtoch M24 Sniper?
Thanks!
Interesting diagram, sort of a zoomed out version of the Cree chart. It looks like the “equal energy” point E is right at 4800K on the pink side of the BBL line… and the Cree 3D tint is about 4750K to 5000K just on the pink side of the BBL line. The Nichia 219B is precisely in that area as well. Must be why I like that tint so much.
This explains a bit about how to do that, for anyone new to it:
What I want to know is how to attach springs to the driver in the first place. I haven’t had much success getting solid sturdy connections.