Richard strikes again. :Sp He sent me a printed paper manual for the Noctigon Meteor’s I bought, unasked, because he thought it should have come with one in the first place from the manufacturer.
Overachiever. :bigsmile:
If only it had been a 1% rebate for my purchases over the last year, I’d probably be able to afford to buy even more stuff……
(since it’s sometimes hard to tell the tone of statements online, this was a big thumbs up again for Richards customer service)
Hi Richard, what batteries should I get to power the AceBeam K60? According to forum posts it can draw up to 4A on high per cell, should I go for the LG18650MH1 3200mah or the NCR18650BD 3200mah? Is there a higher capacity cell that can take 4A with not much sag?
Thanks!
AlexGT
[quote= :
If only it had been a 1% rebate for my purchases over the last year, I’d probably be able to afford to buy even more stuff……
You and me both
+1
heck maybe stock some 6V and other variants,…
For higher capacity and still very much 4A capable, also consider the newest 18650 batteries on the market: Samsung INR18650-35E, the LG INR18650-MJ1, or the Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650-GA. But I suspect that at 4A they may not always be superior in capacity to their cousins. At 8A it may be a different story.
You can compare discharge curves for the 35E, MH1 and BD here (no test data yet for the MJ1 or GA):
Thanks for the information SubLGT 
news flash AceBeam K60 peak draw appox 7 amps
pf/bd are good for 10 so no worries.
“05-28-2015, 08:27 PM #12 acebeam
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Join Date:Apr 2015
Posts:30 Re: 2015 Acebeam K60 CREE XHP70 LED 5000lm 700M throw Flashlight is releasing
Hello richbuff,
The max. current is 7A for K60 on high output of 5000lm, set down to continued 4000lm after 5mins, please note”
Question about the star momentary driver.
Where do you solder the lines for the switch? One goes to the 3rd or 4th star… and the other wire goes where? Nevermind… the ground- I found it. The outer ring right?
Any ground point will work.
Oh, me too, please. I’ll just have the same thing he’s having, whatever it is (grin). Sign me up ….
Another interesting led i have asked Richard to stock is the CREE XP-E Red-Orange LED, that slots in between the Amber & red at a 610-620nm wavelength.
To bad we don’t have any more of those quad DTP copper boards.
Because a amber/orange-red/red/deep red quad sounds like the optimal after dark light combo 
I am thinking, maybe a cute-4 quad with 10mm sinkpads or the xp32 noctigon, i think i have seen an optic that fits that with all four leds covered in that config.
The only thing possible that could improve a set up like this could be to use a far red led also at 730nm, but i have never seen one with my own eyes & i can’t imagine that much extra contrast/acuity could be perceived from a wavelength the eyes have so little sensitivity/response to.
And it complicates the design of a light to much to use 5 different emitters, for me to consider it so far at least.
But it would be interesting to test as an in house solution for after dark, maybe on a light bar set up with diffusers. 5 of those should end up very close to 12v (because the amber/red leds has so low Vf at only 2.3v) so it should be easy to use with a 12 car battery or a off grid set up.
mh, you might want to use pin 2 on the MCU instead of the star. The Star pad is usually a ground connection to enable a function in the memory. Grounding the star, say, enables moon mode….or changes L-M-H to H-M-L, that kind of thing. So if you put your switch lead on the star pad, you’ve essentially got two grounds. Put it directly on the leg of the MCU and you can’t go wrong. (This has caused me much grief, believe me, as pin 2 is the common choice, Richard likes to use pin 3, which can, of course, throw a guy off. Testing it before putting it in the light is always a good bet.)
Edit: you don’t necessarily have to test it with the switch connected. Simply touch ground to pin 2 when power is applied and it should turn the test light on. (A short piece of wire works fine or both tips of the tweezers, one to ground one to the pin) If it doesn’t, try pin 3. You can, of course, also try the Star pad and see if that does it on your particular driver. Repeated touches should cycle the modes as if you were operating the switch.
I looked closer, and he had put a solder blob on star 1 and star 4… I hooked one to star 1 and another switch lead to 4, and boom it worked. I now have a Skilhunt H02, with a Nichia Noctigon and a Star Momentary Driver. Awesome! The moonlight still ain’t quite as low as my Wizard Pro, but man that tint is nice…
I looked for a 1.9A driver (for the amber emitters you have)
and wasn’t quite sure how to spec a qlite on mtnelectronics.
Is that five chips? six chips?
I ’oogled and found you offer a 1.9A driver on eBay: LED Flashlight Driver 1.9A 17mm Multi-Group Circuit XM-L XML XM-L2 CC XP-G 7135 | eBay
The 7135’s he uses are 380ma each, so 5 of them gets you 1.9a
appreciated
mtnelectronics website pages for the Nanjg and Qlite still says “each chip adds or subtracts around .350mA” so I was having trouble making it add up.
(I did know to ignore the decimal point before the ‘350mA’ when doing the arithmetic)
I made a small light with a 659nm Rebel, and even though it produces a light colour that is kind of special, you do not see it vey well: 5W of input produced a mere 70 lumen. If you want a noticable amount of light of this wavelength in a multi-emitter mix, you will have to settle for a rather inefficient flashlight.
I would not bother using the 730nm led at all, while 659nm is seen three times as bad as red (625nm), 730nm is effectively invisible.
Nanjg uses the .350 chips, but Qlite’s and richard (I’m 99% sure) use the higher-binned .380 chips.
I know it can be confusing.
Any idea when CREE Red XP-E2 on 16mm MTN MCPCB will be back in stock?
Can http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=240 be ordered with guppydrv rev2? It isn’t listed in the drop down.