MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

Ouchy, I’ve gotten a few drivers from Richard with blank MCU’s as well, I think he might have had a bit of an issue at one point and missed it. I did the same thing, built a light and troubleshot the heck out of it, finally reflashed it and it worked perfectly. All along it had no firmware.

Could be a firmware issue, or a ground issue. Those MCU pins don't look fully reflowed to me (lots of gold still showing, especially on the ground pin).

I did reheat the Board and wiggled and pressed down on the MCU to make sure it was properly soldered, but who knows. I haven’t given up on it yet. I plan to reflow it onto the next board I build before I come to any conclusions. At least now I know what part of the board was causing me problem and it will be easier for me to do a complete trouble shoot.

Richard. When are you going to be stocking the attiny 25 preflashed with bistro, and those 40K-60K Pulldown Resistors?

I saw the ground pin as well as pin 1, didn’t mention it because the MCU had already been replaced at that point.

And in retrospect, I think the driver’s I got were intentionally left blank for me to flash as I saw fit. Don’t remember now.

Are those MCU’s the ATTiny25?

ouchy, send me a PM or e-mail and we'll get things straightened out.

I will get the Bistro option set up this week...I had actually forgotten about that. I'll get the resistors up too.

Dale, yes, those were sent unflashed, but as usual you did forget that.

lol, yeah well, when I forget I forget all the way! :stuck_out_tongue: Did all kinds of proofing looking for why that first light wouldn’t work, totally clueless the MCU was empty. It was really pretty funny when I figured it out, finally. :smiley:

I find myself wishing some kind of little bar code could be put on drivers as a reminder just what exactly is in each one (sigh).

I sometimes write myself a cryptic little note with a ‘magic marker’ on the ground ring.

Anyone seen a spycraft-quality “Microdot” printer on ebay lately?

Bought one of Sulman's Titanium 18350s the other day just to upgrade the light engine for a client and when I removed the old LE, it appears that the guy who modded it after Sulman originally built it did just that. After thinking through it for a minute I could tell exactly what firmware that he had loaded to the MCU by a small personal code that he wrote directly to the PCB. Also had the LED bin's written on the mcpcb. Great idea. Especially if you're building this stuf in bulk and storing it for a later time.

The last few month I just resorted to sticking, unwaveringly, to guppydrv2. Hard to not know what's on an MCU when you use the same firmware for every build lol

I do that so I don’t forget what bin I used in the build. Easy to write it on the mcpcb, and the date too if it’ll fit, then nothing has to be remembered.

Ok so refresh my memory, (again) Richard… I have one driver left, an FET+1 with ATTiny13A and the lage center via for the spring bypass. It’s got a Zener on it and the high value gate resistor… it won’t flash, the USB ASP turns off when I clip it onto the MCU. What’s up with that?

Yeah, second I hit "send" on that post I thought to myself, "I bet he bought it from Dale" hahaha He never said where he got it, just that it was modded. Had a triple XPG2 in it (was marked "R5" on the mcpcb, indicating the bin) and I know that Sulman doesn't use XPG2's, or doesn't currently anyway :)

Well, I’m pretty much the US warranty dept for Sulman, so there’s quite a few I’ve had my hands on out there in the wild. Virtually all of em that I’ve had to crack open were the typical USER ID10T error code. :wink: Seems like people just like opening up lights, whether they have a clue about how a light is put together or not. Dome’s broken off emitters, glow in the dark stickers melted onto the domes, you name it… even a primary CR123 cell installed and the guy couldn’t get it to work. :person_facepalming:

I'm pretty sure that I told you about the client who I installed, in a sinner, one of Serge's Lux-RC 371d LEs...? He wanted to see it and ended up ripping the contact poles off when removing the optic. Serge's going to get me a replacement LE when he gets back from Vacation...In September. lol

User error...well that's nothing new. I have had several lights that "didn't work" that were obviously opened up and either broken or put back together incorrectly.

I've trouble shot a few over the phone (one upwards of an hour) before realizing that they had Duracell's in the lights. Now if I ever have to troubleshoot it's my first question. lol

Yep. Start with the basics: What batteries? Are they charged? In the right direction? Tube/tailcap on tight and in the right direction?

Which side of your mouth are you holding your tongue out while screwing the tail cap on? :stuck_out_tongue:

It's all solid advice. I had a client once who I built a 14500 sized light for and for some reason it just wouldn't work when it arrived. Worked like a champ when I sent it. He tried multiple batteries and even brands but nothing. Then while I was processing an RMA he tried an AW IMR and it worked like a champ (AW IMR is all that I use when possible). The batteries, Just because they're all 14500 or 18650 or whatever aren't necessarily the same dimensions. The AW just made the full contact required because that's what i set the depth of the pill & subsequently spring to.

It’s not a difficult thing to do. Click the link in my signature if you want to learn how. :slight_smile:

That’s like a bodacious babe in skimpy skin tight leather crooking a finger at ya with a wicked gleam in her eye… how can any human resist? :wink: :smiley:

Wanna play? :stuck_out_tongue:

Ive considered having a go at it several times. I’ve read the tutorials (in a general way), yours and Hoops, and can’t decide if I really need to flash that many MCUs.
I guess the first thing is to figure out what I need to buy and how much it would cost in case I abandon all hope after the purchase.

Next is the computer. I have an older iMac that isn’t supported anymore. I haven’t really turned it on since ipad1 came out years ago. If my iMac isn’t compatible with the firmware and installation, that’s it right there.

I was truly considering having a go at it a while back when OldLumens purchased all the needed cables so he could flash his own drivers. I waited with baited breath, as Justin is the one guy that knows how to make a simple tutorial that any newbie can learn from.
About a week after he got the needed equipment, he put it up for sale and never talked about flashing anything again. That gave me second thoughts.