Any idea when you are going to get the V101 current voltage detectors in?
I really like the beam profile of the polished 10511. I’m not sure I’m at the skill level enough to build a triple. How much more difficult is it to build a triple vs building a single LED flashlight? I would probably use a Convoy S2 or S3 host for both lights.
10507 has nearly no spill outside the main big circle, and the brightness is pretty even all over that circle. The 10511 is brighter in the middle, it's not a sharp-edged center spot, but it's brighter in the middle and has an outer spill, and the outer spill covers a much larger area than the 10507. That's what I see in both sets of pictures, and the opposite of what you're describing.
ri chevy, no plans currently to carry that item.
Between the 10507 and 10511...I think that our subjective way of describing hotspot/spill etc. is different. What I see tends to match more closely with Comfy's explanation, but really there still isn't much of a hotspot.
How hard is it to build a triple?
With the aluminum spacer and an S2 or S6 it really isn't any harder than building any other light. The only substantial additional task is drilling a hole in the middle of the pill for the wire to pass through, which is easy since it is thin brass.
Thanks for the explanation about building the triple. I’ve thought about buying one of your S3 triple lights. The price looks really good for what the light has to offer. I’m good with a soldering iron, though, and would really like to expand my flashlight collecting hobby into building flashlights.
Clearly two different fireplaces cunningly decorated similarly. Sneaky.
I like the beam of the 10511 more but I believe the 10507 has more throw even compared to a polished 10511.
Carclo lists the 10507 making 7.1 cd/lumen and the 10511 making 4.4 cd/lumen. Shouldn’t even be close.
Those are numbers for Luxeon Rebel, for XP-G it's 4.9 vs. 3.5, and don't forget those numbers are with the 10511 having a frosted front face. When polished I wouldn't be surprised if the 10511 makes up more than that difference.
Re: electronic switch driver.
How about adding a shortcut to turn the light off? Perhaps a double-click?
Richard, any chance of you stocking those fasttech Convoy C8 extension tubes in the future? If they match the Convoy C8 as nicely as others said, that would be awesome.
firelight, I think you'll find that the ui is pretty quick and intuitive "as is". I think that I'd try it before wanting to make it more complicated.
drdanke, I already ordered some, we'll see how they fit.
If you want one with instant-off use this: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24491
But the short=up/long=down UI works better, more flexible. Lights with memory are only better if your memory is as good as the light's, otherwise if you've forgotten which mode you used last you might as well just have it turn on in any random mode. Being able to make it come on in your choice of the lowest mode or the highest mode at will is really nice.
Comfychair, I can appreciate your line, “Lights with memory are only better if your memory is as good as the light’s…” I run into this truth often with my lights that have mode memory. I frequently end up cycling through the modes because I forgot what mode the light was in when I used it last. My current favorite lights have no mode memory.
The most used functions in any light are max, min, and on-off. Personally, I find it convenient to have shortcuts to all of those. Doesn’t matter if I don’t remember what intermediate mode I used last if the light has shortcuts to min and max.
While I haven’t personally tried the new UI available in this latest new driver, I do have other lights that require cycling through multiple modes to turn the light off. I found it inconvenient and didn’t like it…. if I want to turn the light on for three seconds to illuminate something briefly, I don’t want to have to then spend 4 seconds cycling modes to turn it off.
This is one reason I’m such a fan of DrJones Lumodrv… long click from off to start at moonlight. Double-click to turn to max mode. When on, click and hold to ramp up, repeat to ramp down. After the light has been on for at least 2 seconds, a single click turns the light off. When the light is off, a single-click will turn the light on to whatever intermediate mode you had last selected.
The Olight S15, S20 and S10 L2, have a somewhat similar interface and have been extremely well received in reviews. The Olight interface isn’t as flexible as lumodrv, but on the other hand it does allow the light to be turned off without having to leave it on for 2 seconds first:
short-click from off - turn on in last used mode.
long-click from off - turn on in moonlight.
click and hold from on - ramp up: low->med—>max—>repeat; release to stop at desired brightness.
double-click - shortcut to max brightness
single-click from on - turn off
You convinced me…. I have buffing wheels and jeweler’s rouge on the way to me from Amazon. Gotta buff my 10511!
I’m really, REALLY liking my SSSP.
I originally ordered it with a 10507 which has pretty nice throw, but I didn’t like the lack of spill. The 10511’s wide spill is quite nice. Looking forward to trying it polished.
I replaced the 16mm green tailcap boot with a flat black 14mm tailcap boot I had laying around. Not as much rubber under the tailcap edges so might not be quite as waterproof, but it’s good enough for me. I like the classy look of having all black… and I really like that with the flat switch boot the light now tailstands perfectly. It was wobbly with the stock boot.
This is an absolutely fantastic EDC! Richard really went above and beyond with this one. :bigsmile:
I just spin it at low speed against some fine sandpaper, then a little dab of jewelers rouge on a paper towel or cotton ball. Too fast, or with a felt buffing wheel, it'll just scorch and melt and smear.
I’d buy RMMs 2 x 26650 host in a heartbeat if Vestureofblood or someone made a copper pill available to fit it.
Copper, brass, aluminum, doesn't make any difference how much light comes out the front. The placebo effect works on your brain, but unfortunately it doesn't work on a light meter.