MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

My Mrs scared crap out of me. We rounded a corner, and she starts getting excited. I thought I was about to hit something, but couldnt for the life of me see anything untoward. I hate those moments. Stupid moon.

For those of you who ordered the M6 mods (Mod 1 and Mod 2) they have started to ship now. I sent out a few Mod 1s earlier this week and just finished the first "production" Mod 2.

XM-L2 U2 1A - VTC4 Cells

Startup: 5074 lumens
30 Sec: 4728 lumens
60 Sec: 4690 lumens

I'm pretty happy with that! I hope you will be too.

I was thinking the same thing, would fit nicely in the recessed pocket in the tailcap.

whoa… is that mod 2?
my fingers is itchy to pull the trigger again J)

Thing is a beast! Lucky we have 7 modes, right? :wink: Now, who’s gonna use the bottom 6 levels? lol

Yes. Mod 1 is around 3000 lumens.

Wow! What's the amps on this? That's bout 1,600 lumens per LED @30s, so I assume about 5.7-6A per LED, 15-18A tail measurment?

btw, I picked up 2.2% on lumens with my M6 when I upgraded a AR lens to a UCLp lens (3,397 lumens to 3,471 lumens). This is M6 resistor modded, stock XM-L2 T6 LED's.

I don't have a meter yet that can measure that many amps reliably. An educated guess is that it is around 6.5A at startup and around 6A at 30-60 seconds. This would make sense given what these cells do direct drive to a single XM-L2 and the lumen output.

Ok - could be you're right - 6 to 6.5A. I'm used to high qual AR lens in these high output lights, so I see higher lumens.

Tom, if you can tell me how to get an accurate reading on a light like this I’ve got a new meter that will read it. I bought a clamp meter that reads hundredths up to 40A and tenths up to 400A.

So far, with apparently the wrong methodology, I’m getting a high of 13.13A off 4 Samsung 25R cells. Best start value I’ve seen is a bit over 4900 lumens.

I just put an UCLp AR coated lens in it this morning, will try Sony C4’s in the box later on today.

As you pointed out that reading is obviously inaccurate. We would have some miracle XM-L2s if they put out almost 5000 lumens on only 13A! Any wouldn't believe any number under 18A.

How about if I use the spare pcb spring board I have, tape the 4 cells into a bundle and apply them to the open head, with the spring board on top of the cells, and measure from that? It’d be taking a measurement exactly as the light is set up but without the battery tube.

Will that work?

I got this DMM, up to 20A: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002748/1204400-uni-t-ut50b-25-lcd-handheld-digital-multimeter.

I use a Powerizer cell - you can use your lightbox to verify it's the same output, or you can measure amps at a LED - better.

Also, I've used in the past a metal plate to bridge the cell neg. ends. 4 cells can be tuff though.

Dale -- ooops, didn't see your last post. That sounds like a good idea for my 20A meter!!

Ok, using the factory pcb springs from the tail, Efest 35A cells, and a 12Ga lead to bring ground from the spring board to the head…

13.90A is as high as it got.

Edit: 4.63 per emitter shows ~1520 lumens on Match’s chart. 4560 lumens ,pretty close to what the light is doing.

What does it do in your lightbox vs. without running through the meter? That comparison is what counts in showing whether or not the reading is accurate.

Boy, hard to tell what's goin on... It's close, but not that close, dunno. Probably best way is measured at a LED, but you got to take things apart to do that. Well I'm curious, but no big deal - we know about what the range of amps would be. I'm trying to equate it to a Super Shocker. Think I saw 5,400 - 5,200 lumens at 6A. Not sure how reflector size effects lumens - I suspect bigger reflectors do produce more lumens, but not by much from what I've seen/measured. I think the highest lumens I've ever measured from a single XM-L2 was in a bridged resistor TN31, but the Shocker is right there. My lumens measurement of Shockers is suspect though -- I get variations depending on position in the PVC lightbox. The Shocker head is so freak'n big, I can't use foam to get it centered, and actually it hits the silicone that is on the edge of the glass of the lightbox, and I see the readings go up/dn as a result of position shifting...

Same exact set-up,

3943.45 lumens. Consistent with the charts and amp reading taken. So when we’re seeing 4900-5000 the amps are indeed up higher, I just can’t get such a solid ground connection as when the light is assembled to allow that kind of amperage to flow.

How do you measure at the LED for three emitters. It’s probably obvious but I’m still working on the morning coffee and still a bit dim. Do you measure each individually and then average?

The Efest 35A’s put into the light and run yield 4868 lumens, at a rested 4.15V and after the previous test.

So the assembled light is allowing more current to flow than I can duplicate with the battery tube removed.

Yeah Scotty, you’d have to solder (or otherwise solidly connect) the DMM leads into the circuit at the LED, then either do that with the other 2 as well for complete accuracy or just multiply x3 for a close guesstimate.

Well.... I'd assume just measure one, then x 3, but.... Maybe not so accurate?? Dunno details of Richard's build - parallel or serial wired LED's. I was think'n parallel, so the LED's should be close to the same? Think in series is more likely to vary. I re-read his mod #2 description, but doesn't say what exact driver, what the LED config is.