my Supfire M6-Mod1 did arrive in flawless condition. I’m truly impressed how nice the beam pattern is for a triple. It has a very nice round center spot, I didn’t expect that.
It’s my first side-switch light and this - in combination with the UI you flashed - is a hoot. I like the well spaced 7 modes and to be able to choose to start either with moon (short press) or full brightness (long press) is just awesome.
I’m still undecided which tint it shall get, so I leave it in stock form just for now. Already dreaming of Noctigons and some resistor modding, though.
the knowledge in this Forum never ceases to amaze me! Scary but it seems to be progressive. Nobody will be talking ‘regular flashlights’ soon. Learn it or be left behind I guess.
edit: Vinh puts his V54 and Fiat Lux on his custom lights. What can we get Richard to put on his? Mod Squad? Boo!
Hi Cereal,
fortunately you’re wrong. I have Mod1 (see my post), so Richard did not braid the resistors (that’s Mod2), he just added one R056 to the existing three per channel (and did that very cleanly I have to point out, that’s craftsmanship).
So, yes, it’s a FET-driver, but no, it’s by no means maxed out. Muhahahahahah… J)
Still dreaming of my next resistor mod.
Sure! It's something I had been working on for a while, but with the 105C I had to cut a trace and run an extra wire so things weren't very tidy to make it work. The issue is that with the current measurements running through the zener mod, they never get above 4.3v and are useless for more than one cell.
Matthaus made a few custom boards that you can get from Oshpark.
For the voltage divider circuit, I used the following formula (originally pulled from Tido's BLF-VLD documentation, but you can also see it in the STAR FW comments.)
Except we need to remove the 0.25 volt drop because there is no longer a diode in the circuit.
You can use the 4700 ohm resistor along with a 200 or 430 ohm resistor to get in the range you need. 430 ohm will be more accurate and give better resolution, but 200 ohm also works just fine if that's all you've got. Here are a few example calculations:
6×200×255
(4700+200)×1.1
306,000/5,390
9x200x255
459,000/5,390
6x430x255
(4700+430)×1.1
657,900/5,643
9×430×255
(4700+430)×1.1
986,850/5,643
On another note, I have a bunch of XM-L2 U2 1D emitters on 20mm Noctigons that I was able to get for an excellent price, so they are on sale right now on the website.
He’s a magic man! Speaks through his fingers and packages virtually hands free!
Thanks again for the good work Richard, I was feeling bad there for a while when I ordered some small order every other day or so, but you keep offering new things, on sale things, clearance things, and I realized it’s all your fault! So, carry on! I’ll make sure the mailman knows what your packaging looks like so he can bring it to my door instead of leaving it in the box, that way I can get started modding quicker. :bigsmile:
Ambient temperature at the moment is about 15 degrees C, Although in summer it is more like 35 degrees C.
And yes I will be ordering 22 AWG wire from RMM and modding the spring to handle the current.
I will be grounding the 4th star for the moonlight mode as well
Once everything arrives I will put it together and post a build thread
Sorry for misunderstanding, yes you have a FET based driver but it is the stock FET driver, I took your original post to mean you had the option of the BLF FET driver piggybacked, for that level of mod there is no resistor mods because as I said, it is maxed out already.
Just to be clear: The Mod 1 and Mod 2 use the same three FETs, and the same driver layout. The Mod 2 levels are slightly tweaked (biased lower in the lower levels) and the turbo timer is shortened. You can get full Mod 2 power levels by bridging across those resistors and copper braiding the tailcap springs. This isn't recommended with the stock MCPCB and hot cells, not only will you not get full output, you will likely fry those emitters in short order.
Cereal, no harm done, and a pic says more than 1000 words.
Just to make things clearer, this is what Mod1 is: Stock emitter, piggybacked stock driver with STAR firmware flashed, a 4th resistor at each bank added to moderately increase current.
Did I already mention I am very happy with this? 0:)
Hey guys, finally got the SRK 7135 driver up on the website. I tried to keep the price as fair as possible, but it does take me a bit of time to build, test, and troubleshoot these boards. Also, I have made some bare PCBs available at about 50% the cost of buying the boards in smaller runs direct.
So, carry on! I’ll make sure the mailman knows what your packaging looks like so he can bring it to my door instead of leaving it in the box, that way I can get started modding quicker. :bigsmile:
