Well mine came in today and I am in fact totally disappointed. The light does not turn on most of the time. When it does come on it flickers or goes out, then comes back on randomly. It does not change modes except randomly, if you can get it to come on at all. So far I’ve tried cleaning threads, tightening circuit board ring, and different batteries. I was able to tighten the switch retaining ring but that caused the switch to not even latch on.
It appears it may be a problem with the switch itself, if I bypass the tail assembly altogether with an amp meter I can get three modes drawing (Edit I read these wrong off of meter 0.01A, 0.63A, 1.28A) and it seems to light up OK.
I got the Raw smooth Ti version and it does look very classy. It’s about 10g heavier than a Reylight Ti Pineapple and just a tad bigger. The threads are not compatible. I contacted Edoluc about the problems so we will see how they handle it.
It seems that the switch was adjusted too tightly during assembly.
Inside the switch, there are two slots, you can find a longer clip and loosen it slightly. Be careful not to loosen it too much at once—adjust it gradually and test it little by little.
Please try this method. If the issue persists, I will send you a new one directly.
I was a little skeptical, but I tried loosening the switch retainer and the light is working now. The notches are deep in there, so my normal snap ring tools didn’t work, so I used a bent bicycle spoke. Since the retaining ring doesn’t tighten down hard against anything (it floats) it doesn’t offer much resistance to movement. I was then able to reprogram it to group 3 on my first try.
Can’t quite picture this in my head. Perhaps slightly modifications to the tailcap design would improve the reliability. How does water resistance work if the tailcap doesn’t press down on the rubber boot?
It’s not a retaining ring. The switch assembly is inside a brass shell. That shell screws into the body tube. It’s possible the switch is sensitive to how much you screw it in.
This was my initial problem with it too. The switch does not work if it is screwed down all the way into the bottom of the body. There is no horizontal play in the switch but there is vertical play in the switch when it is backed off a little (and then works properly). I know some light’s switches can be firmed up with something placed between the rubber boot and the plastic switch mechanism to make it less mushy so I will try that and see if I can find a solution between a mushy switch and a functioning one.
On the plus side, since all the parts are threaded, adjustments are possible and we are not stuck with beautiful but non-functioning light.
So the solution that I have found for the mushy switch/non-working switch is to add a 1mm slice of a pencil eraser in-between the rubber boot in the tail switch and the actual switch. I used a bamboo skewer to screw the switch pill just enough to where the switch won’t operate, then backed off a little. Switch is firmer and button action is better (but not great). No fix for the too high moonlight yet though…
After a long wait, I finally received it. The package got stuck for more than a week. The customer service was helpful and sort out well.
The tail switch for my unit is fine but a bit mushy as well. Not as good as Raylight Pineapple Mini
The package is quite simple and clean. The build quality is good and feels great.
I didn’t mind the moonlight as it was, but I don’t need every light I own to go sub lumen.
I tried a NiMh and the highest mode becomes the same or lower than the Med mode. So it looks like Moon- Med-Low on group 2.
I would recommend adding a selection to the available mode groups with something that maxes out at whatever a NiMh is capable of, and that would work OK with alkaline too. Something like Moon-3%-10%-30%. This would make it more child safe on LiIon as well.
My current measurements using NiMh on group 3 (Moonlight-5%-30%-100%) were:
19mA-100mA-820mA-860mA. I played around with the light before the test a bit and couldn’t visually tell the difference between 820 and 860mA of course, and so it wasn’t fresh off the charger before the measurements either.
edit Just to note this same Nimh Fujitsu cell will deliver 2amps in a Acebeam TacAA after measuring it on the Edoluc, so its not just the cell.
. The notches are deep in there, so my normal snap ring tools didn’t work, so I used a bent bicycle spoke. Since the retaining ring doesn’t tighten down hard against anything (it floats) it doesn’t offer much resistance to movement. I was then able to reprogram it to group 3 on my first try.
