you dont have moose in the outback, do you? 
No, but theres a lot of donkeys.
well, if you want to fly to maine, and bring along a lil something cough aac8*cough*, id make sure you see a moose 
The 16mm optic came from cnqg and held things up for weeks. It’s made to fit over an xre ring. Whatever your taking, I hope the mind expanding part doesn’t wear off. Sorry you need it though.
I’m not done tweaking these and I’m curious about what people think is better in the keychain format, size or run time. With that cell, the Solitaire only has a run time of 15-20 min, a 10280 cell might get 25-35 min, and a 10440 an hour if all ran at 350mA. The 10180 cell makes for a 50-55mm light, 10280 a 60-65mm light, and a 10440 is the stock 83(?)mm Solitaire.
My thoughts are. I dont have a key ring flashlight but I do have a flashlight that I use all the time around the house which would be this one.
This runs an AW at 3 amps on high which would be good for a minute or so before it burnt a hole in something, it is used on low 90% of the time. To me run time is not important on small lights. At the most they may get used for 3 or 4 minutes a day which gives ample run time even if the battery was to last only 15 minutes. There is always another flashlight handy if the use changes.
To some up even if its not used much brightness is everything over run time if you have different modes.
Smallest possible, brightest possible? With the Efest IMR 10440 cells I use, direct drive and full charge I can get ~2.5A at the tail cap, which is about 7C. The cells that I got for the little guy came from light hound and were able to fully drive 2 7135 chips even though I only used one this time. I’m reluctant to push any cell that hard as an edc but even with just one chip from 2 lumens to 100 is a huge difference. The choice of a Nichia was more for low voltage protection(dims at higher Vb than xpg) than for CRI as I find the 3D tint quite acceptable.
I also like the 3D tint. Whats your preference? Practical or a hot rod? I like the optic also in small lights as it's a lot shorter than a reflector making for a more compact light. You know I dont have a clue how you make your drivers work. Maybe you could start a thread on the basics on what each little bit does.
Most of what I do is based on what I learned from the OL/Techjunkie master/slave mod before posting this thread. It’s just an enlarged driver naming the parts. Once you wrap your head around the idea that traces can be replaced with wires, the rest is just imagination(I’ve got plenty of that), coordination(still have both thumbs but only 5 other fully functional fingers), and skill(my soldering is improving but I doubt if it would get me a job anywhere).A multi mode board is really simple. The 7135’s control the current and the IC controls the 7135’s through the Vdd pin/trace. On a single mode board the 7135’s are “on” all the time. The extra resistors and capacitor on the multi mode board allow the IC to provide things like memory and voltage monitoring. The pill for my solitaire is just a single mode board without the board. The one for the AAA Minimag is a multi mode board that has been reshaped but still has all the parts.