My driver is broken? :quest:
I have a HD2010 with original driver (17 mm)
I place a new loaded panasonic3400 and I hear a buzzing, ringing …
Now I can only do it in my flashlight on / off
it is the driver?
My driver is broken? :quest:
I have a HD2010 with original driver (17 mm)
I place a new loaded panasonic3400 and I hear a buzzing, ringing …
Now I can only do it in my flashlight on / off
it is the driver?
on/of high no more 5 modes
Something shorting to ground?
Seems like the reflector (negative) is touching the LED star’s negative, essentially bypassing the driver’s PWM.
yes you two are both right! thanks for reply, I had just solved before I read it here.
I had after I had replaced the glass too tight an AR glass and wire was stretched. led to
I am very happy with my new flashlight.
it is a red copper dedome 20mm xml2 u2 A1 AR glass now and I’m the springs do with copper wick.
I must say that the yellow light is fortunately less than halogen.
would also improve by 2.2 mm wire new driver for LED on copper?
and fill the cup with copper?
greet
There are copper pills for sale from time to time. I think Ryansoh's group buy still has a few available, can't find the thread to save my life at the moment, though.
Crazy question?
Could those of us that don't mod and solder/unsolder stuff from our drivers do a "conformal coating" with clear nail polish to prevent these types of shorts and possibly moisture damage/corrosion? (Not on the battery conntacts of course)
Just throwing that out there?
Here’s the HD2010 copper pills thread if you need it: Sold out: $20 HD2010 & $15 Convoy C8 copper pills
As for isolation, I’ve tried liquid white-out to cover up the parts of the driver that was causing problems with the body, and it seemed to work. Nail polish or white-out on the PCB’s +/- contacts though, may not work because the reflector has a lot of friction and pressure against it.