Hello there, I’m putting together my first build at Mtn. Electronics and was hoping to confirm a few things.
First, I’m looking for a nice balance of performance and battery life. I currently have a Thrunite Archer 1A V3. I like it just fine, but I thought I’d try my hand at building my next flashlight.
Here’s what I’m going to buy. Suggestions and/or advice welcome.
- Convoy S2+ in Black
- QLITE REV.A 7135*6 3.04A LED 17mm DRIVER with Optional guppydrv Universal Firmware
CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB
I like a warmer toned light. I’d love something that has a turbo of 600-1200 lumens. I’d also like a nice low moonlight mode.
I don't understand how you gets 3.04A out of 6*7135, each 7135 gives 0.35A so 2.1A in total.
Also, for nice low moonlight mode you need a separate channel with a single 7135
Just copied and pasted a listing from Mtn electronics website and changed the *8 to *6, no big deal…Like I said, it’s my first build. As such, perhaps you can tell me whether or not I’d need to alter my build to get the results I’m looking for?
“you need a separate channel with a single 7135” … How would I do this?
“6*7135, each 7135 gives 0.35A so 2.1A in total.” … Okay, if I only have 2.1A, so I have to change something in my components? Do I need a different emitter? Or does this just mean I’m have lower current and as a result lower lumens?
If you don’t want to answer in long form, maybe you can share a few links you’ve used in the past to learn about this stuff?
I’ve built plenty S2 lights —- The small footprint LEDs seem to do better in my opinion — SST20 (throwy) XP-G2 (throwy) — Samsung (floody)—-Unless you want some crazy low moonlight the regular Q lite driver works fine with Guppy —— I’d keep it at 3 amps — with all the mode options and Turbo timer it will work fine
I’d buy at least two of each component —— nothing like frying your first driver and have to wait a week for another one
All the Qlite 105C drivers I have bought from mtnelectronics use the 380mA version of the 7135 and come standard with 8 of them = 3.04 amps max output. They are quite a decent driver with guppy.
Yeah, the *8 is standard, and they remove as many as you want for an extra fee. I suppose if I have the upgraded firmware that allows for any config, *8 would be fine. I was worried that *8 would be too much of a battery drain, even on lower settings. I also read mixed information regarding issues with flickering and heating up when you use a driver with higher amp outputs.
Again, I’m totally new to this, so I could definitely be mixing stuff up.
Personally I would not worry about having 3.04 max. Yes the light will get hot, but you can reduce the output lower if needed.
My very first self built light was an S2, with that Qlite driver with 4 added 7135’s, feeding a triple mcpcb and using a Carclo triple optic plus aluminum spacer that is needed when doing a triple like that. I learned a lot and went onwards from that.
Are you wanting something that throws or floods more? Tube lights like the S2, S2+ don’t make the best throwers, IMO. I like the triples as you can swap the optic if you decide you want wider or narrower beam. Plus three of the same emitter are more efficient than a single with the same current.
One thing to be aware of when working on an S2 is that the brass retaining ring that screws into the brass pill to secure the driver will not fit over that driver. That is, the inner opening of the retaining ring does not have a large enough opening to clear the 7135’s on the side of the driver that faces the cell. The ring has to have the inner hole diamter filed larger or the driver is just soldered to the pill.
Once you get used to soldering iron use, you can easily remove 7135’s from a driver like the Qlite. You can also add your own.
Great information, thank you! Yeah, I am not well practiced with a soldering iron. This is a fun build that allows me to practice and learn a bunch of new skills.
I’m not looking to illuminate something that’s super far away … I’m more interested in a nice flood with a tiny bit of range. A nice EDC that I can use to walk my dog a night, night walks in the woods, working on my car or tractor, around the house, etc.
One other question I had is regarding thermal compound/adhesive. I’ve, again, seen differing opinions about whether it is best to use thermal compound or a permanent bond with thermal adhesive. My gut is leaning toward thermal compound, so it is easier to make adjustments or completely change my build at any time.
Any recs on this?
I was going to buy Arctic Ceramique 2 Thermal Compound from Mtn. Electronics. It’s inexpensive and you get quite a bit for your money. I know many people recommend Arctic Silver 5 Premium Thermal Compound, but if I could get something decent for less, I’d rather have a lower cost entry point in the beginning.
For 3A maximum current it does not really matter. Unless you want to keep the light on turbo for a long time, heat dissipation is not a real issue for you.
You can use a 2$ thermal paste from AliExpress, it is a week adhesive so can be removed if you want to
Okay, I decided on a different LED that looks to have a decent description of color accuracy, tiny, and output.
Here’s my build lineup. I may throw in some glowing gaskets, etc., but what do you guys think in terms of a basic first go?
Convoy S2+ Flashlight Host - Black
— Convoy S2+ Flashlight Host - Black
— I couldn’t find orange … most colors seem to be out of stock in the states.
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
— QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
— I am going to go with the *8 default, and the upgraded flash (guppydrv Universal)
Nichia 219C D280 on 16mm MTN DTP CU - 80+ CRI 3000K
— Nichia 219C D280 on 16mm MTN DTP CU - 80+ CRI 3000K
— R8000 CRI Rank (~80 CRI)
— 3000K 3-step MacAdam centered ellipse temperature
— Low vF allows for tons of output and easy regulation, even at high amps
— Similar output to an high-bin cool-white XP-G2, but with much better CRI and tint; also easier to hit 5A+ due to the extremely low vF requirement
I feel pretty good about my choices. I’m not looking to reinvent the wheel. Hopefully I learn a bunch and can come back with a better project after this one.
) in red/grn/blu/cyn/vio/orn with the metal switch.
