This is very basic by most of your standards but it was my first de-domed XP-G2 light and I am pretty happy with how it turned out so I thought I would make a thread.
Well I bought 3 of the “Solarforce” Aviation P60 hosts from the focal price sale. I put Solarforce in inverted commas as it turned out the hosts were fake. Nevertheless for their price they were still a pretty reasonable host. I gave one to my step dad with a simple 3-mode T6 3C XM-L2 drop in from IOS which left me with two spare. One I am keeping aside for a green laser build I want to attempt soon but for the other I wanted to try an XP-G2 as even though I have quite a number of lights now the only XP-G2 I have is my little Thrunite Ti2. The original plan was just a simple build and I ordered an XP-G2 R5 3C from IOS. I then remembered I had a spare XP-G2 R5 2B on a Noctigon sitting around from a build I planned to do previously. I then decided to try a de-dome. I have done a few before but never on an XP-G2. Anyway, it worked out absolutely perfect. I have had huge success using 2K thinners, it gets the dome off in about 20 minutes and doesn’t leave a trace of anything behind and doesn’t touch the emitter surface.
For those that didn’t see the host from Focal Price, here it is…
So I started by adding a piece of Chemtools Size 2 copper braid to the tail switch spring, not sure I actually needed this but I have soo much of it I thought why not?
I de-domed the XP-G2, used a Qlite 3.04A driver with 3-modes, changed the wires to some 22AWG silicone wire from IOS, added some Kapton tape to stop any shorts and there is some AS5 under the MCPCB.
Finally I wrapped the drop in with some copper tape so it fits tight in the host.
Pretty happy with the beam with a very tight bright hotspot, the tint has obviously become warmer but it has also shifted a little green, however outside it isn’t very noticeable. It has a decent amount of throw for such a small light. I’m not sure what it actually means but I measured 2.75A at the tailcap? Not sure if it should be more than that? Will hopefully get an outdoor beamshot sometime and post it up.
I do not see a reason why the amperage should not be 3A, the xpg2 needs quite some voltage but with all the electrical paths well done there should be plenty voltage leftover for the led be driven at 3A. Perhaps the test-leads of your multimeter are cheap and thin?
Maybe the battery you are using is not high current one?
I believe you can pump up the current more than 3A, at least with two more 7135 chips. Then you will have about 40kcd throw.
BTW, your beam looks really clean and the hotspot seems well focused! Great job!
They should be able to. Mine do 3.8A with a DD driver. I use the protected version in a 2.8A Convoy.
Are your DMM leads sufficiently thick?
Edit: your stock fluke leads probably aren’t thick enough. I was measuring 2.6A on 2.8A driver until I upgraded to 10 or 12 Gauge leads. Now I’m seeing 2.8A and higher measurements are more accurate too.
Isn't 2,8A+ to much for an XP-G. How long do you use the high level (only 3-4 minutes or longer). I'm waiting for the "without BLF logo" C10 of the groupbuy and ask myself: 2,8A or is 2,45A or 2,1A the better choice, if I want to use the higherst level for 15-20 minutes?
Very clean de-dome, looks like it all came together quite well. Funny that the already cheap Solarforce is being cloned cheaper! Amazing.
And yes, you might would think you’d get the amperage that the driver is rated at but there are always losses. Just like in the emitter and reflector and lens and…
There’s about a 20% loss in lumens output when de-doming, so to regain some of that you might want to stack a couple of chips. If you can get it performing at 3.8A or so, I think you’d be pretty surprised and pleased. Me? I never stop pushing til it just won’t take any more! I can get safe and compromised at Harbor Freight. 15+A in the same L2 host, now we’re having fun! Ok, I’m partially kidding. I got over 15A to a triple in the L2P but backed off as THAT is just too much! lol
Now you’re talking!! I have stacked chips quite successfully before so there is no reason why I can’t do it again! You think it will be ok in a P60 host though, if I was to add 2 extra chips?
I will also double check all my contacts and try and find some thicker wire for my DMM. Do any of you add copper braid to the tiny spring on Qlite boards?
Correct me if I’m wrong but I think the tail cap reading shouldn’t necessarily be equal to the current going accross the LED.
At 2800 mA XP-G2 LED current for example, the Vf is 3.898 volts. If your lithium ion cell gives 4.12 volts then the tail cap reading should be 2711 mA. Of course granting that there is no drain or resistance on the circuit.
De-domed XP-G2's on copper have the lowest highest Vf I've seen. Me and RaceR86 have had the same problems multiple times - much harder to get high amps. You absolutely need to wire up that + spring, and should be using a low resistance cell. You also should have used 22 gauge wires. Of course you also need heavier leads than stock on your DMM.
