Nice job LSX. That beam looks nice and tight.
Great job. I love little throwers!
As suggested above, make up some short, thick leads for your meter - you should be reading more accurate then.
Nice looking beam 
Isn't 2,8A+ to much for an XP-G. How long do you use the high level (only 3-4 minutes or longer). I'm waiting for the "without BLF logo" C10 of the groupbuy and ask myself: 2,8A or is 2,45A or 2,1A the better choice, if I want to use the higherst level for 15-20 minutes?
My understanding is that an XPG2 can go upwards of 5 amps with no problem as long as it’s properly heatsinked.
3A isn’t a problem when the xpg2 is on a noctigon or sinkpad (copper star).
I believe several people have pushed xpg2 on copper over 4.5A.
Nice build. Got me wanting one now.
Very clean de-dome, looks like it all came together quite well. Funny that the already cheap Solarforce is being cloned cheaper! Amazing.
And yes, you might would think you’d get the amperage that the driver is rated at but there are always losses. Just like in the emitter and reflector and lens and…
There’s about a 20% loss in lumens output when de-doming, so to regain some of that you might want to stack a couple of chips. If you can get it performing at 3.8A or so, I think you’d be pretty surprised and pleased. Me? I never stop pushing til it just won’t take any more! 
I can get safe and compromised at Harbor Freight. 15+A in the same L2 host, now we’re having fun! Ok, I’m partially kidding. I got over 15A to a triple in the L2P but backed off as THAT is just too much! lol
Have fun! You’re hooked now buddy!
Looks perfect! 
Now you’re talking!! I have stacked chips quite successfully before so there is no reason why I can’t do it again! You think it will be ok in a P60 host though, if I was to add 2 extra chips?
I will also double check all my contacts and try and find some thicker wire for my DMM. Do any of you add copper braid to the tiny spring on Qlite boards?
Correct me if I’m wrong but I think the tail cap reading shouldn’t necessarily be equal to the current going accross the LED.
At 2800 mA XP-G2 LED current for example, the Vf is 3.898 volts. If your lithium ion cell gives 4.12 volts then the tail cap reading should be 2711 mA. Of course granting that there is no drain or resistance on the circuit.
De-domed XP-G2's on copper have the lowest highest Vf I've seen. Me and RaceR86 have had the same problems multiple times - much harder to get high amps. You absolutely need to wire up that + spring, and should be using a low resistance cell. You also should have used 22 gauge wires. Of course you also need heavier leads than stock on your DMM.
I wanted to say something but reading answers after answers till the end I see there is just no left thing to say 
I did use 22awg wires from the driver to the emitter. I will add some braid to the driver spring and a couple more chips and change the leads on my dmm and see how I go.
Thanks for all the input from everyone.
Ooops there - meant highest Vf demand. The Vf seems to go up after de-doming a XP-G2, what we've seen. I know I've gotten disappointing results when tried to get over 4A out of one.
I've seen this as well. I was able to hit 4.5A out of a dedomed XP-G2 on copper, but only with a fresh 20R cell, with 12 total 380mA binned 7135s. A Pana PD doesn't even come close to that... like 3.8A? Obviously it can't hold 4.5A for long at all at this vF.
In my little 14500 direct drive light it kind of self regulates, I can only get about 2.2A out of the little 14500 which is just about all I want in this little host. On the stock thin aluminum MCPCB with the dome it would jump over 3A, but the lumens were lower.
Tom, he DID use 22ga wires
And I like to pull that short stout spring and put a nicer more flexible spring on it, inverted, with a bypass. I typically use flat top cells so the inverted spring works fine, if you use button tops make sure you bend a 90 in the end of the spring to give a button top some place to make contact.
With the pill being brass you can get away with adding a couple of chips, even 4 if you like, but it will of course run hotter when on high.
Good details Dale on the spring - yes, I do the same thing, in fact it's so automatic to me, I forget to mention it!
Sorry, didn't mention that my driver was 7135 based on high amps (stacked extra ones), so more 7135's - more the voltage gets knocked down, which is a good reason of why you don't want to put too many stacked if you can't achieve those amps. For example, if you got a Qlite with 4 added 350 7135's, so 4.44A theoretical, but if you can only get 3.2A measured with a particular setup (light/battery, etc.), you are better off removing 2 of the 7135's (3.74A) and you will have a better chance of achieving the 3.74A, and should actually get higher than 3.2A.
hmm 
, thanks, I'm learning a new thing here (a humble biologist educated with just Ohm's law).
Let me try to reason that: 7135 chips try to deliver 350mA, and get there in effect by adjusting their internal resistance. Starting point: there is so many 7135 chips that, with all resistances in the circuitry including the resistance in the 7135 chips, the battery can exactly deliver the total current that that number of chips are 'worth'. In this situation the resistance of the 7135 chips are at their minimum I guess, letting through every current possible. Now I add 1 extra chip. None of the 7135 chips can now deliver the 350 mA anymore, but trying to deliver their current, their resistance is still kept at their minimum. The equivalent resistance of the chips with 1 added should then have become lower and current goes up a bit.
So not higher and less current, what went wrong with my reasoning, what is really happening?
Not sure I follow you, but a 7135 based driver limits amps, doesn't do a true regulation of amps, and each 7135 adds resistance (reduced voltage) -- that's the bottom line.