If other files are needed it shouldn’t be able to compile and should throw errors.
For the A6 firmware you’d need to uncomment(remove the //) from the line so the correct MCU is defined:
If other files are needed it shouldn’t be able to compile and should throw errors.
For the A6 firmware you’d need to uncomment(remove the //) from the line so the correct MCU is defined:
Ok. Sounds good.
I’m going to build a test rig to make doing the otc and batt check processes easier.
I’m thinking about building some type of sled with a pcb that has an easy to access switch for button presses. Have some alligator clips and such. Possibly holders for 18650, 21700 and 26650 cells.
I’m currently draining some cells to different voltages.
I’ll have to get the metronome out too.
I appreciate your help.
I went ahead and made 1 more driver. Another 20mm.
I used an ATtiny25 for this one.
I flashed it with bistro just to make sure it works.
Next I’m going to finally figure out Microchip studio, and do all the battcheck and otc stuff.
I’ve been using this 0.3mm applicator I got from aliexpress to put the paste on. It seems to work good.
Here it is all pasted up.
And here it is built.
I like seeing the rapid progression of the results of your soldering, it gives me hope that one day, my solder joints and technique will also improve…
Thanks. ![]()
I think I fried my most recent attiny25 build.
I flashed the complied bistro.hex on it and everything was working great. Great firmware. I did not do batcheck or otc yet. Just the pre complied hex.
I installed it in a convoy m21a host with an LHP73B and hooked up an M58T
Anyways…I was setting the thermal protection and I’m pretty sure I overheated it. I was pushing the envelope on how hot it was getting. I turned the light off at the desired heat level (scalding) and when I turned it back on, it only had 1 mode.
About medium low. No other functions.
It seems about the brightness of what I would expect out of a single 7135.
I’m pretty sure I cooked the attiny25 by getting it too hot.
Does that sound about how it would work if the mcu fried, since no other modes switch and I can’t enter config or anything?
Anyways…lesson learned.
I think I throw another attiny25 on it and see.
Did you try it again after it cooled down?
Have you tried reflashing the ATTiny? If it takes a flash without any errors i would think the ATTiny is probably ok.
I did try it again after cooling, as well as different batteries.
Good call on trying a reflash.
That’ll be my next step.
Do you have a link to that applicator?
I got myself on of these: Spoty precision SMD micro-dot solder paste dispenser but I haven’t tested it yet. It’s downside is that it needs rather specific paste, not the cheap stuff. I got the xpensive paste and will test it within a few days but the one you have might be good for generic stuff where I can use the cheap paste.
Here is that exact one I got from Ali.
Watch Lubricant Oiler Metal Oil Pin Pen
I have the 0.3mm and 0.5mm
I like the .3mm, as I seemed to get too big of a “scoop” when dipping the .5 into the paste container.
But that could come down to the viscosity of said paste, so not a bad idea to get a couple different sizes.
I actually just ordered the .2mm as well to try on smaller pads.
I made 1 more driver last night, and think I’m getting my scooping technique down. I went from a bare board to coming off the hot plate in about 30-ish minutes.
I just use a wooden toothpick for small pads.
Any luck?
I’m planning on ripping into it tomorrow.
Keep your fingers crossed.
I was able to successfully reflash the attiny25, so I guess that is not the problem.
I guess I’ll start probing stuff with the MM, then hook it up to my PS.
Anything I should be looking for in particular that could cause this behavior?
I replaced the fet and still same thing. Only low mode. No ability to enter configuration menu. All the resistors seem to measure properly.
After discharging the caps, they measure true to thier rating.
While the driver is powered, I measure 3.7v @ each of the capacitors as well as the schotky diode. 1.1v at the 7135
The driver is only drawing .16 amps when I activate the switch
I measure 2.84v @ the led leads.
Maybe I was wrong about the MCU being ok.
I think I had multiple components fail, due to my aggressive temp reg attempt.
I replaced 1 of the resistors that I wasn’t confident in it’s intermittent readings. I also flashed a fresh attiny25 and flowed that on.
It does fire up now, but is missing the 3 lowest modes, which all seem like they are a medium fet setting…so I’m also curious if the 7135 is shot as well.
I’m actually about to reflow a new 7135 on as well. Fingers crossed
I got it!!!
I figured while I was into it again I would just go ahead and replace all of the cheap parts as well.
Cap 1. Otc cap. Both p resistors. R2 (already replaced r1) and a fresh death claw 7135.
All modes function 100% now.
I guess it was a good exercise for me in troubleshooting.
I’m getting more comfortable with the hot air rework station as well. Especially since getting a few new angled, and smaller tips.
I ended replacing all of the stated components with 3mm angled nozzle.
I wicked up most of the existing solder after removing said components with a small c210 angle tip, and everything else was with hot air.
Nice!
Glad it’s working now!
So now I have a set with matching internals. Convoy M21A and M21B. Both running fet+1 with bistro, and lhp73b.
These suckers are bright! I’m really liking the bistro firmware too.
Now I have to be patient for my Oshpark orders to show up so I can build a few Texas Avengers.
Trees are about 65-75 yards away