You may be thinking you want one of these but you really don’t. I don’t game. I bought the laptop because I needed an SD card reader and I wanted the 144 FPS display. This allows me to scan videos at high speed without dropping frames. The laptop has a 2 hour battery life and the 135 watt power cord runs hot. Buying a 230 watt cord costs more than most people spend on their entire laptop. What I don’t reccomend is a laptop with with an additional graphics processor. I tried to turn it off but even off it uses 4 watts of power and the 4 gigabytes of DDR 6 also uses 4 watts of power turned off. Even with this the power cord runs hot. If you don’t game or run engineering programs stick with a single CPU. I’m looking for a refurbished HP with a 120 FPS display. I have noticed the temp of the power cord goes down if you increase the ram. This pervents the computer from constantly exchanging data from RAM and hard drive. Some laptops will run with double the ram that what they say it will run with. This uses more power and you risk burning up your ram slots. Get the best hard drive you can. I will be upgrading to a Samsung 9100 pro drive. My laptop will not use this HD at full speed but it will use less power than my Samsung 990 pro. Because of windows shenanagins I have 5 copies of windows 10 2 copies of windows 10 pro and 1 copy of windows server I can swap out. I never set up 11 I just exchanged hard drives and all I had to install is the wireless driver that I had already downloaded. I have tried to install linux in my past laptops and always run into problems with the WiFi .
Can you lower something related to performance, or processor speed to reduce power draw?
I own a HP Omen and the battery really drains quickly while the laptop is off. It has amazing performance for gaming, but if you need something for working, I would get something else, as you said.
AMD said all of their processors are underclockable. What they didn’t say is laptop processors are not underclockable. I tried and the computer crashed. The processor is 35 watts and the business version is 15 watts. The graphics processor is 80 watts. Some of the higher end laptops will allow you to turn off the graphics processor. My old laptop would play 4K 60 FPS video with out any problem. I’m moving away from the hot rods but I really want a high refresh rate screen.
I’ve a 12th Gen, i9 powered 17" Dell XPS for work, it’s a little long in the tooth as it’s now 3 years old.
I need some grunt as I run 3D software, so I understand that I’m going to have a “portable desktop” type machine, which I’m okay with… However, the XPS chassis is so slim, combined with the i9 and RTX3060, that even basic word processing tasks result in the case getting stupid hot.
If I had the choice, I’d not get another. My lower spec’ed Lenovo ThinkPad (i7 and some lower spec graphics card) runs my same 3D software pretty well because it’s not thermally throttling all the time!
My understanding is that real gaming laptops should not be run on battery. For max power or even average power, plug it in. The battery is there so they can call it a laptop.
I had a Asus gaming laptop some time ago. Yes it ran on battery even for gaming but all the components would throttle down so much it was a joke. Not to mention the battery would last 15 minutes.
This is running Crysis maxed out.
Trying to cram all the processing power of a desktop into a laptop form factor, yes, it’s going to get hot. It has to go somewhere. Darn things are incredibly difficult to keep cool. As things heat up they get less and less efficient. Of course you know already, try and keep air flowing around it. Sitting it on a pillow or something on your lap is a horrible idea.
I had a few laptops. Got rid of them. I did keep one around and I will recommend it to anyone. Microsoft Surface Go Laptop. Little work horse. It’s not a gaming rig, more like a surfing and emailing rig. I do some gaming on it but nothing too taxing. Built like a tank. You can find em cheap on ebay, sometimes 80 or 100, grab one, they are worth it. I put Linux Mint on there and it runs very well. Zero issues with install/setup.
Wifi problems with Linux installs are more common than they should be. Usually ends up with the chipset not being supported. I have a few of those little wifi usb dongles that are Linux compatable. Less than 20 on amazon. Plug it in, install your distro, disable the onboard one and use the usb one. Sometimes you can find drivers for it and then you can re-enable it.
I have been through lots of Linux installs on lots of different hardware. If you need a hand I might be able to help, just give me a shout. I’m typing this on a first generation Mac Mini with Debian and Xfce desktop. Runs pretty good on this old junker.
(post deleted by author)