So I just got a TD05 and want to share:
First off, as many are aware this is basically a Aplos T02 which is regulated, and as far as I can tell the only difference is a 5000k sft40 rather than 6500k (which is frankly a pretty great change). Them, wurkkos, sofirn, and probably some others I’m unaware of are all made by the same parent company, Jinba Tech Shenzen. Despite the shared lineage, it isn’t compatible with their normal 18350, so 18650 it remains.
But if you aren’t aware, wurkkos released some photos here a while back of potential ts26 designs, that started with fc13/ts11 button then went with one that looks like what I’ve got here.
I’m happy to report this button is pretty good! No play between the switch and the cover, and it’s good and responsive, and ever so slightly stiff so I’m not concerned with pocket activation (side button only registers clicks on release, so holding does nothing special). The rear button is similarly tight, the actual button is small behind the cover but pressing on the sides didn’t muck it up. It’s also easier to find than you’d think given the sleek profile, as the USBc cover opposite is quite flat so there’s no confusion on what you’re feeling. Looks like it’s got red, green, and orange to indicate battery status: so the upcoming ts26 anduril version could potentially keep RGB aux behind the button in addition to the TIR. Which is important to me, I like my button RGB aux, it’s easier to use without accidentally blasting your eyeballs compared to the TIR.
No shortcuts to “moonlight” by holding the side button from off or anything, and I can’t access any other groups through the usual means, so it’s eco-low-med-high in that order with memory, double click for turbo, triple for strobe. Perfectly serviceable for a duty light. Oh and it doesn’t tail stand if that’s important to you, tail button is a little too proud for that.
The tube pattern is great, super grippy in hand, but not rough and aggressive feeling. It also grips the pocket well, which might lead to some wear there, we’ll see.
The reflector is a less aggressive OP reflector, and fairly deep. Compared to the FC13 (sft40 3000k in this one) it’s got a considerably tighter hotspot and spill.
It’s got that high candela tactical light thing going on, but I like it more than my fc13 as a dog walking light. These wall pictures were taken very close to the wall mostly to show the spill and hot spot, from several meters the difference in hotspot size is significantly more pronounced.
I couldn’t get a good picture of the light cone, so you’ll have to take my word for it that it was a better comparison in person.
Overall it’s just a solid flashlight, completely free of both bells and whistles because it can’t be bothered with such frivolity. Between the emitter, efficiency, and dirt simple interface it’s going to be my new go to “you need a flashlight” gift to people who can’t handle the fc11 (which is already dirt simple, but it does have a lockout which could trip up the more technologically disinclined).
Mine came with the bezel glued, but by nature of the deep reflector there was a lot of surface to grab and it was easy to open by hand. I’ll probably put a sft40 3000k in here, mostly out of habit at this point…
It’s got a nice big mcpcb, which should help with heat transfer, but honestly I’m surprised at how little it heated up on turbo. Compared to my fc13 3000k it was quite the difference, though the 3000k didn’t help.
Edit: I put an L50 Hi green in just for laughs while I reflow a 3000k on the MCPCB (which is 22mm for those counting).
Excuse the mess, it’s just a temporary home so I really didn’t try at all to clean the old heat sink.
That’s a 16mm mcpcb, tons of room in there!
The light OP really evened out the weird rings this emitter has while seemingly not sacrificing throw.
Edit swap #2: I did the 3000k thing. Reflowed on the 22mm mcpcb it came with hoping for better heat transfer. I need to find a nice 4000k 5050 LED. Any suggestions?
Here’s fc13 vs td05 again, same emitter this time (auto wb).