Sorry, this is a bit long. Thanks in advanced to anyone that reads this.
I messed up a new Convoy S3 with an SST40 while trying TIRs and need to replace the LED. I was going to buy a new LED pre soldered to a board from the Convoy store, but then started thinking I might as well try a different driver or make a triple S3. The lights I use are either for work or for night hikes, I want a nice floody even beam and doesn’t need to be super bright. I also bought a 519a S3 and a 519a H1, and I put an 85 degree TIR in the 519a S3.
I find the 35% setting on the 5A 12 group driver to be plenty bright, even the H1’s (think it’s a 3A driver) 30% setting is plenty bright, I’d probably only use the 10% setting on the 5A for night hikes. The S3 seems like it gets a little too warm on the 35% setting, even the H1’s 30% setting the light gets warm but seems tolerable, and that is only about 900mA, the S3 35% should be 1.75A (from what I read about this driver it is probably really more around 2A).
I need help deciding what to do with this S3. Would like a floody beam, and for it not to get any hotter than the 5a 12 group driver on the 35% mode, would prefer if it ran a little cooler than that.
My 3 choices.
Replace the LED and board with another SST40 from Convoy store (unless there is a better place to get them) and just use the light as it was ordered. Will be using a 60 degree beaded TIR (I can’t seem to find a wider beaded TIR for 5050 LED) or maybe some diffuser film.
Replace the LED and the driver. Was looking mainly at the qlite (for the star off time firmware) or the FET + 7135 (for any of the firmware that have 6 modes, or crescendo) from Mountain Electronics. I’ve read the 7135*8 drivers get really hot. So a few questions about my options.
2a. Is most of the heat generated by the light from the LED? How much comes from the driver?
2b. If you had a 7135*8 , a FET +7135, and a Convoy 5a 12 group driver operating at the same amperage, would one run cooler than the others? Would it be a noticeable difference?
2c. Is it possible to program out the 100% mode on the FET + 7135 driver? Would it be fairly simple to do?
2d. On the FET + 7135 driver, a 30% setting would be 30% of whatever your battery can output?
2e. If I go with a 7135 driver, like qlite, and based on what I have expierenced from the 5a 12 group driver. I should be ok with a 5 or 6 * 7135, even a 4 I think would be ok (unless they get hotter than the 5a 12 group), but would a driver with 6 brightness settings be to much for a lower amp driver? I feel like it might be nice to have even if there isn’t a visual difference, might be able to adjust for heat, in which case, should I just get the 8 7135?
Make a triple S3. Would prefer to use 519a LEDs but doesn’t seem like there are any pre-made boards with them.
3a. Would making a triple S3 with integrated shelf use the same parts as for an S2+?
3b. If I were to use the Carclo 10509, would a domed 519a fit? It says can’t be used with domed XPL, and 519a from what I’ve found is smaller than the XPL but larger than the 219c.
3c. What is the beam like from the Carclo 10509 lens compared to a single LED with a 60 or 85 degree beaded TIR? It shows the 10509 being around 40 degree.
3d. I was thinking of trying the 319a since it comes pre soldered to the board, even though I don’t see much talk of this LED. Or would the 219c or LH351D be a better choice? I just don’t want a light that is “ugly” compared to the 519a, unless I choose just to keep the light a single SST40 for a more simple repair.
3e. Is having a triple that’s operating at 1000mA similar to 1 led at 1000mA? Or it is it like having 3 dimmer lights lighting up a larger area?
3f. Having 1000mA divided means each LED should generate less heat, but cumulatively does it end up being less, same, or more than a single LED?
I think that’s all the questions I have at the moment.
Sounds like you barely need any light at all and you run your lights really low and cool. For that purpose an SST40 is a garbage emitter. Really green unless it’s driven >5amps. Kinda meant to get the most lumens at the cost of everything else. You don’t need that output, you can get something prettier if you wanted.
Depends on the driver and the LED and where you are on the ramp. But probably significantly more is coming from the led than the driver in most causes.
I assume you mean to say same watts. First law of thermodynamics. 5 watts of heat is 5 watts of heat everywhere. But one driver might make more light at the the same watts as another. Then question you want to ask, I think, is what makes the most light using the lowest power. I’m not entirely sure which one that is
Never used that one idk.
Never used one, but no I assume it’s some preset limit but idk
seems everyone uses the linear + FETs nowadays. That 5a 12 group. 7135s arent as good as they used to be I’ve heard
You do have 3 dimmer lights over a large area so it is like that. But you might get more light overall. Depends on the LED. They’ll have a peak efficiency somewhere. Usually on the low end. Might not be that noticeable though.
The same. 5 watts generates 5 watts worth of heat. But might run a little cooler if the board for the 3 LEDs is bigger.
Thanks for the reply, kind of sounds like I might have to just experiment with this light. Any idea if the parts to make a triple S3 are the same as an S2+? I only see information on the older S3 that have a pill.
It probably uses the same parts for a triple as the S2+ since it uses the same reflector. Just wanted to make sure. I might try a triple since I’ve never used one, but want to make sure it has more flood than the S3 with a 85 degree TIR
Does anyone know if the Carclo 10509 is floodier than a 85 degree beaded TIR?
I think I’m going to go with the DrJones H17Fx Driver w/ lucidrv2 - 7135 + FET for driver, since you can program the 2 groups with up to 7 modes and 24 settings to choose from with clicking the light and not having to flash, and since I’m new and don’t know what I want / need, I can use it to simulate different amp drivers.
As for LED, I think I might try the 319a.
Thanks Jeffgoldblum and gravelmonkey for your replies.
Nice thought put into this! I really wish I could help but my history here is in the opposite direction.
Triples might be the way to go, Nichia 519A or Samsung LH351D would be my recommendation. A base QLite would be ok, four 7135’s aim at 3A so your heat should be relatively minimal giving each emitter one amp of current.
I like the softness of the 90CRI LH351D myself. Richard has those and the QLite drivers. Be quicker and probably not much more expensive, he can mount triple emitters on a good copper MCPCB and should also have the optic.
I did want a triple 519a, but I didn’t see any premade boards with them, so I was trying to decide between 319a and the LH351D. Was considering buying the 519A LEDs from the Convoy store, and try to attempt to reflow them onto a triple board from Mountain Electronics. Was just worried that I’ll mess it up and end up wasting money. Was also worried about soldering longer wires to the driver, since some of these drivers have the wires close to other components.
Also wasn’t sure if the 519A works with the Carclo 10509.
I had asked Kaidomain about one of their triple mcpcb’s with 519A emitters and they said they could sell me one but that it won’t work with their triple optic because the dome is too large.
Carlco 105?? optics work fine with 519A, but aren’t ideal with KD triple mcpcb’s as their holes for the optics pegs are slightly larger so there’s a bit of wiggle.
That’s good to know that the Carclo 10509 will work with the 519A. Thanks.
I will most likely get the mcpcb from Mountain Electronics. Just need to decide if I’m going premade, or try to reflow my own. Would prefer trying a 4500k, but Mountain only has 4000k or 5000k.
Is it possible to just make little adapters for the legs on the optic so they fit the Kaidomain mcpcb snug?
I got my triple parts, and the mountain spacer is too tall, need to shave off at least 1mm for it to fit. So anyone doing a search for making a triple S3, the mountain spacer will need to be modified for the S3 bezel to screw on fully. I’m guessing this spacer was made as large as possible without causing other fitment issues with the S2+. The S3 needs something much closer to stock reflector height since there is no pill to compensate. The only other way to get the bezel on without modifying the spacer would be to remove the oring below the glass lens and silicone the lens into the bezel to seal it, or use a flat gasket like my Nitecore lights use, then maybe you can screw the bezel on all the way.
From my approximate measurements:
Stock reflector setup, bottom of mcpcb to top of reflector is about 13.5mm
Bottom of single emitter mcpcb to top of a tir lens is about 14mm (this is the limit for height in my opinion)
Mountain triple spacer setup, bottom of spacer to top of triple optic, almost 15mm
Now I need to find a way to take off 1mm and keep it perfectly straight and level
I ran into the same issue last year when I converted my old S3 into a 519A triple. I was proceeding like the MTN spacer was going to fit perfectly, but also found out it was too tall.
So I put a piece of sandpaper on a small mirror (to keep the sanding surface flat) and sanded the spacer until there was a very tight fit when screwing on the bezel. Aluminum is pretty easy to sand down since it’s a soft metal.
Here’s the difference between the stock S2+ spacer and what was needed for my S3:
I’ll have to do that, not much choice at this point. My luck I’ll somehow sand it crooked and end up taking too much off to correct . I was trying to find something to clamp to the outside to limit how far I can go, and to make sure it is straight, possibly even act as a guide so I can just use a cut off wheel on a die grinder. Like a collar clamp or something. But they say slow and steady wins the race, doing it by hand is probably a better idea.
Just keep rotating the spacer when you are sanding it to keep it even. If you have a caliper you can take measurements to make sure all sides are the same.
In the end if there’s a small deviation, the lens O-ring should be able to absorb the difference.
And you should check to make sure both sides are perfectly flat, along with the MCPCB and the S3 shelf. That way you are maximizing the surface contact areas to dissipate the heat.
I always lightly sand the MCPCB to make sure it’s flat and remove any burrs or bumps in the pill/shelf.
I tried some 100 grit sand paper I had, seemed really slow. Then I remembered I had a metal file, put a tapered pin in a vise and set the spacer on the pin so it sat flat on the vise and the pin kept it from moving while I filed away. Probably should have stopped when I had it down around 6.25 mm, but OCD kicked in and I kept going until it was just under 6.1 mm.
Fits nice, bezel threads on easy, there was still some movement when the bezel seemed like it was all the way on, but I used a piece of rubber drawer liner to give it a little extra twist, seems like everything is in place, no more movement, bezel all the way on.
If you want it to be a little more snug maybe more around 6.3 mm or so would be good. Although most people will probably just sand / file until it fits how they want.
Just waiting on a few more things to show up before I put everything back together.
. I was trying to find something to clamp to the outside to limit how far I can go, and to make sure it is straight, possibly even act as a guide so I can just use a cut off wheel on a die grinder. Like a collar clamp or something. But they say slow and steady wins the race, doing it by hand is probably a better idea.