I ordered mine around 5pm on the 24th and it arrived today. Pretty good shipping, definitely came from the US warehouse.
Fantastic deal on a great product. Thanks Sofirn!
This was totally my order haha.
Got mine yesterday. Incredible buy. $12 with a battery is a steal. Came from Sofirn in one week. The head band is very good, better then expected. Protected GA’s fit perfect.
No Nonsense interface.
I will likely get a few more.
Mark M, They got the first name right I’m Mark S. My order is supposed to be delivered today. I give a lot of lights away that’s why I got these. May keep one for myself. I use the SP40 quite a bit.
Bought two if these. Amazing price. Considering more once I examine them and if the deal still exists by then. Anyone familiar with the driver topology in these? DTP? Custom mcpcb? TIR friendly reflector dimensions?
It have simple fet pwm driver, glued hardly removable led MCPCB and rare sizes small optics. Thats why D10 is better ;)). Easiest mod for D25 is to swap driver only. I have made or designed literaly all kind of drivers for D10 and D25: Fet+1( Anduril , Zebralight, Kraken UIs) , Boost 6-12v (Tamagochi firmware) , double channel 7135+7135 (Anduril LT1 firmware), and buck -boost on the way (anduril and more…) Gchart have some IC to swap as well…
There’s space for 2 x 16mm mcpcb but the original mcpcb is very thin (I measured .80mm)
The D10 model is the better choice for mods. Easy to swap MCPCB and leds and easy to swap reflector for TIR. The twin leds of the D25 offer no real advantages.
It’s the same driver as the D10 as far as I know, so swapping it should be straightforward. The MCPCB is a proprietary aluminum with both led pads on it, so finding a copper dtp drop in would be neigh impossible. Could possibly swap in 2 14mm dtp boards side by side though. No idea if TIR would fit.
That’s my thinking. The standard MCPCB is aluminum (or alu-minimum, for some), and that weird proprietary size pictured above. You’ll need a small hex driver to get it out, too. Tiny reflectors, and sized for 5050.
There’s probably small TIRs somewhere that can be scrounged up, and then you’d have to do some super-careful positioning of small individual MCPCBs.
Quadrupel designed/built some FET+1 Anduril-compatibile (i.e. ATTiny85 and supported pinouts) driver for this and the Boruit D10 - I have one in my D10 and am quite pleased with it. For this guy, I’d love to get a pair of LH351Ds behind TIRs. Reflectors are 16mm diameter by 7mm deep. If we’re losing some thickness to copper DTP MCPCBs, we’ll have less than that to work with, although we could remove the glass lens.
LEDiL Tina maybe a good candidate?
As mentioned, the driver availability… My D25S from Sofirn did not have glue on the MCPCB, just a dark gray thermal paste.
The Tina looks like it could work. Thanks everyone for the teardown pics and mod info. I’m thinking of SST20w or 351D swaps here. 2P LED wiring and FET keeps me in the 3535 3V class. Buck/boost would be lovely, but I feel like putting a 20+ dollar driver in a 12 dollar host isn’t the smartest idea. I’d prefer a Skilhunt for that (of which I have an H04RC and M200 on the way and will test the stock drivers efficiency - I’m not so sure it’s that great…)
I sure do wish there were some 5050 HiCRI options already! A 95CRI SST40 and some DC-fix would make the a true BLF-special
Yeah, especially when they’ve already got the phosphor mix from the SST20…. Could go for domeless varieties while they’re at it.
Also, I ordered a couple TINAs from Mouser. I’ll let you know how they do
How waterproof are the D25’s? I assume good enough for light rain but since there’s no gasket under the reflectors plate probably not so good if dunked in water?
Yeah, I wouldn’t dunk it. The charge port is concealed in a way conducive to waterproofing, but no real effort is made with that reflector plate. Humorously, there are o-rings at the the glass/bezels.
It’s too bad that they didn’t add a 10 cent gasket to the plate 
I guess if someone was never going to open it up adding a bead of silicone under the lip of the plate would make it a lot more water resistant.
Yeah. I’m thinking these are best served for beater lights. Garage and work. For $12 w/ cell, I won’t shed many tears if they get ruined/stolen. If a high CRI ’40 comes along, I’ll swap it, but I’m thinking these will stay stock and/or be lenders.
Really? So it changes game a lot . Its possible to use leds in series for 6v boost driver or use separated channel driver for different kind of leds or “digital” zoom.
Too cheap? You can buy same host for 25$ on Amazon ;))
I see what you are saying, but my view is that I would not have bought this light at any more than $14-15 honestly. It’s functional for sure, but not of the build quality and design that I’m going to invest in. I really love my Skilhunt H03 and Armytek Wizard. Top switch is a strong preference for me, and waterproofness is a must.
My Tinas came in. Will have to cut the tabs off the circumference, but otherwise looks like they’ll be perfect for lens-in, thicker MCPCB build.
Edit: fitment with SST40 into the optic might be tricky, but I was gonna swap LEDs anyway.